Kibler’s Longrifles Knowledge Base

Public knowledge about Kibler’s Longrifles rifle kits, parts, and buying options. Last generated 2026-08-01T00:40:56.233Z.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the twist rate of a .32 Rice barrel?

A .32 caliber Rice barrel has a 1:48 twist rate.

What is the twist rate of a .36 Rice barrel?

A .36 caliber Rice barrel has a 1:48 twist rate.

What is the twist rate of a .40 Rice barrel?

A .40 caliber Rice barrel has a 1:48 twist rate.

What is the twist rate of a .40 Colerain barrel?

A .40 caliber Colerain barrel has a 1:48 twist rate.

What is the twist rate of a .45 Rice barrel?

A .45 caliber Rice barrel has a 1:66 twist rate.

What is the twist rate of a .45 GM barrel?

A .45 caliber Green Mountain barrel has a 1:70 twist rate.

What is the twist rate of a .45 Colerain barrel?

A .45 caliber Colerain barrel has a 1:48 twist rate.

What is the twist rate of a .50 Rice barrel?

A .50 caliber Rice barrel has a 1:66 twist rate.

What is the twist rate of a .50 GM barrel?

A .50 caliber Green Mountain barrel has a 1:70 twist rate.

What is the twist rate of a .50 Colerain barrel?

A .50 caliber Colerain barrel has a 1:56 twist rate.

What is the twist rate of a .54 Rice barrel?

A .54 caliber Rice barrel has a 1:66 twist rate.

What is the twist rate of a .54 GM barrel?

A .54 caliber Green Mountain barrel has a 1:70 twist rate.

What is the twist rate of a .54 Colerain barrel?

A .54 caliber Colerain barrel has a 1:56 twist rate.

What is the twist rate of a .58 GM barrel?

A .58 caliber Green Mountain barrel has a 1:70 twist rate.

Do you collect sales tax in Indiana?

Kibler's collects sales tax on orders shipping to Indiana.

Do you collect sales tax in Michigan?

Kibler's collects sales tax on orders shipping to Michigan.

Do you collect sales tax in Pennsylvania?

Kibler's collects sales tax on orders shipping to Pennsylvania.

Do you collect sales tax in Kentucky?

Kibler's collects sales tax on orders shipping to Kentucky.

Do you collect sales tax in Missouri?

Kibler's collects sales tax on orders shipping to Missouri.

Do you collect sales tax in Tennessee?

Kibler's collects sales tax on orders shipping to Tennessee.

Do you collect sales tax in Virginia?

Kibler's collects sales tax on orders shipping to Virginia.

How much does shipping cost to Ohio or Michigan?

Kibler's ships to Ohio and Michigan for $75 (Zone A).

How much does shipping cost to Indiana, Maryland, or Pennsylvania?

Kibler's ships to Indiana, Maryland, and Pennsylvania for $75 (Zone B).

How much does shipping cost to Zone C states like Virginia or New York?

Kibler's ships to Alabama, Connecticut, Delaware, DC, Georgia, Illinois, Kentucky, Maine, Massachusetts, Missouri, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, Rhode Island, South Carolina, Tennessee, Vermont, Virginia, and Wisconsin for $80 (Zone C).

How much does shipping cost to Zone D states like Florida or Illinois?

Kibler's ships to Arkansas, Florida, Iowa, Kansas, Louisiana, Minnesota, Mississippi, Nebraska, North Dakota, and Oklahoma for $80 (Zone D).

How much does shipping cost to Colorado, Texas, or Wyoming?

Kibler's ships to Colorado, Montana, New Mexico, South Dakota, Texas, and Wyoming for $110 (Zone E). The printed sheet shows $100 crossed out and updated to $110.

How much does shipping cost to Arizona, Idaho, or Utah?

Kibler's ships to Arizona, Idaho, and Utah for $110 (Zone F). The printed sheet shows $100 crossed out and updated to $110.

How much does shipping cost to the West Coast, Alaska, or Hawaii?

Kibler's ships to Alaska, California, Hawaii, Nevada, Oregon, and Washington for $120 (Zone G). The printed sheet shows $100 crossed out and updated to $120.

How much does shipping cost to Canada?

Kibler's ships to Canada for $200 (Zone Z).

How much does shipping cost to Germany?

Kibler's ships to Germany for $250. This was added by hand to the shipping binder.

How much does a .58 caliber Colonial rifle weigh?

A Colonial rifle in .58 caliber weighs just under 9 pounds.

How much does a .54 caliber Colonial rifle weigh?

A Colonial rifle in .54 caliber weighs 9 1/3 pounds.

How much does a .50 caliber Colonial rifle weigh?

A Colonial rifle in .50 caliber weighs just over 9 1/2 pounds.

How much does a .45 caliber Southern Mountain Rifle weigh?

A Southern Mountain Rifle in .45 caliber weighs 6 1/2 pounds.

How much does a .40 caliber Southern Mountain Rifle weigh?

A Southern Mountain Rifle in .40 caliber weighs just under 7 pounds.

How much does a .36 caliber Southern Mountain Rifle weigh?

A Southern Mountain Rifle in .36 caliber weighs 7 1/4 pounds.

How much does a .32 caliber Southern Mountain Rifle weigh?

A Southern Mountain Rifle in .32 caliber weighs 7 1/2 pounds.

How much does a .54 caliber Woodsrunner weigh?

A Woodsrunner rifle in .54 caliber weighs 7.3 pounds.

How much does a .50 caliber Woodsrunner weigh?

A Woodsrunner rifle in .50 caliber weighs 7.7 pounds.

How much does a .45 caliber Woodsrunner weigh?

A Woodsrunner rifle in .45 caliber weighs approximately 8.1 pounds.

What ball diameter and patch should I use for a .32 caliber rifle?

A .32 caliber rifle uses a 0.315 diameter ball with a 0.012 patch.

What ball diameter and patch should I use for a .36 caliber rifle?

A .36 caliber rifle uses a 0.355 diameter ball with a 0.012 or 0.015 patch.

What ball diameter, patch, and powder load should I use for a .40 caliber rifle?

A .40 caliber rifle uses either a 0.390 ball with a 0.015 or 0.018 patch, or a 0.395 ball with a 0.012 or 0.015 patch. Powder load is 35 to 55 grains.

What ball diameter, patch, and powder load should I use for a .45 caliber rifle?

A .45 caliber rifle uses a 0.445 diameter ball with a 0.012 or 0.015 patch, FFF powder grade, 60 to 90 grain load.

What ball diameter and patch should I use for a .50 caliber rifle?

A .50 caliber rifle uses a 0.495 diameter ball with a 0.012 or 0.015 patch.

What ball diameter and powder load should I use for a .54 caliber rifle?

A .54 caliber rifle uses a 0.535 diameter ball, FF powder grade, 60 to 70 grain load.

What ball diameter and powder load should I use for a .58 caliber rifle?

A .58 caliber rifle uses either a 0.570 ball with a 0.018 to 0.020 patch, or a 0.575 ball with a 0.015 patch. FF powder grade, 60 to 70 grain load.

Where can I buy black powder from John Venskoske?

John Venskoske sells black powder. Phone: 540-888-3349.

Where can I buy black powder from Black Creek Gun Shop?

Black Creek Gun Shop, Inc. sells black powder. Address: 863 Chestnut Grove Road, Winchester, Virginia 22603.

Where can I buy black powder from Jay's Sporting Goods?

Jay's Sporting Goods sells black powder. Address: 8800 South Clare Avenue, Clare, Michigan 48617. Phone: 989-386-3475.

Where can I buy black powder from Log Cabin Sport Shop?

Log Cabin Sport Shop sells black powder. Address: 8010 Lafayette Road, Lodi, Ohio 44254. Phone: 989-386-3475.

Where can I buy black powder from Dickinson Arms?

Dickinson Arms sells black powder. Address: 5140 Commerce Ave (Unit A&B), Moonpark, California 93021. Phone: 805-978-8565.

Where can I get a mainspring vise from Dixiegunworks?

Dixiegunworks.com sells mainspring vises.

Where can I buy a mainspring vise and how much does it cost?

R.E. Davis Company sells the ultimate spring vise (item #0320) for $33. Phone: 330-948-1082.

What jeweler saw blade do you recommend?

Recommended jeweler saw blade is Laser Gold #6 (item #110313, 5 1/8 inch length) from RioGrande.com.

Where can I buy polishing stones?

Polishing stones can be purchased from Congress Tools or Gesswein.

Where can I get wood filler?

Wood filler is available from Constantine's Wood Center.

Where can I buy a brass patchbox?

Brass patchboxes can be purchased from Muzzleloader Builder Supply or Track of the Wolf.

Where can I get a single set trigger for a Colonial kit?

Rice sells a single set trigger suitable for Colonial kits.

Can I use a Davis Trigger on a Colonial kit?

A Davis Trigger can also be used, but the builder has to add wood on the side to make it fit.

Where can I get bluing or browning supplies overseas?

For bluing or browning overseas, Birchwoodcasey.com is a source.

Where can I find the book Rifles of Colonial America?

Rifles of Colonial America by George Shumway is a two-volume book with carving examples. Available from Crazy Crow.

Where can I find the book Thoughts on the Kentucky Rifle in Its Golden Age?

Thoughts on the Kentucky Rifle in Its Golden Age is a book with carving examples. Available from Crazy Crow.

Who does jug choke work?

Lowell Tennyson in Bluegrass, Iowa does jug choke work. Phone: 563-381-3711.

What is a card scraper and where does it come from?

A card scraper is how craftsmen smoothed wood before sandpaper was invented. Sometimes loose metal or abrasives were used on a piece of felt with oil. This was mostly in the second half of the 18th century (1700s). It was less common to do anything with the wood or metal before that.

How do I clean the rifle?

Plug the touch hole with a toothpick. Pour cold water into the bore about one third of the way up. Put your thumb over the muzzle and slosh everything around to get it wet. Let it sit about 5 minutes. Dump it out. Use cleaning patches on a cleaning jag. Put a rag or something around the hole to keep water from squirting out (it will stain the stock). Keep patching until they come out clean. Then apply WD30 and run a couple more patches.

What is the range rod diameter and thread size?

The range rod diameter is 1/4 inch and the threads are 8-32.

What files do I need for the build?

For wood: 8 inch, 1/2 inch round, medium smooth file. For metal: 6 inch needle file.

What size is the #52 drill bit in the bushing kit?

The #52 drill bit in the bushing kit is 0.063 inch.

What steel are Rice barrels made from?

Rice barrels are made from #12L14 carbon steel.

What steel are Green Mountain barrels made from?

Green Mountain barrels are made from 1137, a modified material.

What is the rifling depth on a .40 caliber Southern Mountain Rifle?

On a .40 caliber Southern Mountain Rifle, the rifling depth is 0.01 to 0.02 inch.

What are the Ketland lock mortise dimensions on a Southern Mountain Rifle Kit?

The Ketland lock mortise on a Southern Mountain Rifle Kit is 4.775 by 0.908 inch.

What are the sight dovetail sizes on a Southern Mountain Rifle Kit?

On a Southern Mountain Rifle Kit, the front sight dovetail is 0.385 inch and the rear sight dovetail is 0.590 inch.

What thread size is the top jaw screw?

The threads on the top jaw screw are 12-24.

What is the barrel width on the Colonial Kit?

The Colonial Kit barrel is swamped, so width varies. It is 1.125 inch at the breech, tapers to about 0.800 inch, then widens to about 0.875 inch at the muzzle.

Can I use linseed oil from the hardware store?

Linseed oil from the hardware store is not good and doesn't dry well.

What is Tried & True Varnish Oil and how do I apply it?

Tried & True Varnish Oil is a type of linseed oil but much better quality, cut with resin. Can be thinned 50/50 with turpentine for the first coat or two. May take 3 to 4 days to dry without sunlight.

What is Permalyn Sealer?

Permalyn Sealer is definitely not the same as linseed. It dries a lot harder and shinier.

How should I apply the finishing oils?

Apply very thin coats of both Tried & True Varnish Oil and Permalyn Sealer.

What do I do if the lock bolt won't fit through?

If the lock bolt won't fit through, first check that the barrel is all the way against the stock at the breech, and confirm the bolt goes through the barrel in place. Determine if the tap from the drill guide kit will be enough. If not, use a small round file to elongate whichever hole needs it, either the metal hole in the barrel or the wood hole in the stock.

How does Kibler's ship kits?

Kibler's ships kits through regular USPS mail. We contact the customer to make sure they are ready for the kit and verify the shipping address before shipping. If the customer will be out of town, we hold off shipping until someone will be there to receive the kit. We email a tracking number when we ship. We also include an NMLRA Muzzleloading Manual in the same packet as the general instructions.

Why is the nosecap left on the kit?

The nosecap is left on the kit because in order to properly finish it, it's best to leave it on. It is peened attached to the stock.

How does Kibler brass compare to cartridge brass?

The chemistry of Kibler brass is slightly different from cartridge brass but it's in the ballpark.

Can I add a brass patchbox to a Colonial kit that shipped with a wooden one?

Yes, a brass patch box can be added later to a Colonial kit that shipped with a wooden patch box. This was sometimes done in the original period. The easiest way is to change out the buttplate, but the builder could also solder in a patch. Either approach works well.

How do I get a higher gloss finish on the stock?

For a higher gloss on the stock, apply more thin coats of oil. Make sure each coat is thin and dry before the next.

Why do I need to sand the brass?

Brass needs to be prepared for finishing with files and sandpaper.

What is a muzzleloader?

A muzzleloader is a firearm that was the dominant technology prior to the end of the 19th century, from the era of the American Revolution, the frontier, and the mountain man. Instead of modern cartridges, the shooter pours black powder down the barrel from the muzzle, seats a lead ball or bullet, and ignites the charge with either a flintlock or percussion system.

How does a flintlock ignition system work?

On a flintlock, flint gripped in the cock's jaws strikes a steel frizzen. Sparks fall into a pan of priming powder that ignites and flashes through a touch hole to set off the main charge. Flintlocks were dominant from roughly the 1640s to the 1830s.

How does a percussion ignition system work?

On a percussion lock, the hammer strikes a small copper cap containing a primer compound. The cap detonates when struck and sends fire through a nipple into the main charge. Percussion systems became common from the 1830s onward.

Should I choose a flintlock or a percussion rifle?

Choose flintlock if drawn to the 17th and 18th century, the Revolutionary War era and the colonial American longrifle, or a very rewarding shooting experience. Choose percussion if drawn to the Hawken plains rifle tradition, better reliability in damp weather, or an easier system for beginners.

Who designs Kibler's kits?

Jim Kibler designs every kit. His background as a high-end custom builder informs the historical and aesthetic standards of the kits.

What condition does a Kibler kit arrive in?

Kibler kits arrive as pre-machined, precision-fit components. The hard work of complex inletting, drilling, and machining is already done.

What does the builder actually do when assembling a Kibler kit?

The builder fits metal parts and assembles the kit, prepares the wood and metal surfaces for finishing, stains and finishes the wood, finishes the metal components, and assembles and function-tests the complete rifle.

How long does it typically take to build a kit?

Most first-time builders complete their kit across several weekends.

Which Kibler kit is easiest for a beginner to build?

The Barn Gun Kit is the easiest build with the fewest parts, and it is offered as either flintlock or percussion. It is recommended for beginners.

What is the Southern Mountain Rifle Kit like?

The Southern Mountain Rifle Kit is light and sleek, described as fun to shoot. It is a flintlock.

What is the Woodsrunner Kit like?

The Woodsrunner Kit is compact and practical for the woods. It is a flintlock.

What is the Fowler Kit used for?

The Fowler Kit is a flintlock smoothbore designed for bird hunting or turkey hunting with a historical firearm.

What is the J.K. Hawken Rifle Kit for?

The J.K. Hawken Rifle Kit is a percussion kit for a Mountain Man build.

What is the Colonial American Longrifle Kit like?

The Colonial American Longrifle Kit is a flintlock, described as a big beefy rifle as seen in Outlander.

Which Kibler kit is the most popular and best reviewed?

The Colonial American Longrifle Kit is called out on the site as Kibler's most-built and most-reviewed kit.

What tools do I probably already have for building a kit?

Tools a builder likely already has include a vise or sturdy bench, sandpaper, a few basic files, screwdrivers, pliers, hammers, and patience.

What tools might I need to buy for the build?

The builder may need to pick up wood stain and finish (from our Finishing Supplies collection) and a few specialty items if they don't already have them.

Do Kibler locks come with a warranty?

Every Kibler lock is warrantied. If a part ever fails on us, we will make it right and send a replacement at no charge.

How do I request replacement parts?

For any other parts request, we prefer customers call or email so we can talk it through, help them get the right piece, learn about anything we should know, and keep our quality where it ought to be.

What is Kibler's contact email and phone number?

Contact Kibler's at info@kiblerslongrifles.com or 330-551-5844.

Is there a full build video playlist I can watch?

The full build playlist is on the Kibler's YouTube channel. Customers can watch the entire process before ordering and again while building.

What is Kibler's mailing address?

Kibler's mailing address is PO Box 293, Hanoverton, OH 44423.

Is there a text line I can use to reach Kibler's?

Kibler's text line is 234-567-7978.

How old was Jim when he got interested in building long rifles?

Jim Kibler became interested in building long rifles at around age 15.

What sparked Jim's early interest in long rifles?

Jim's family was interested in antiques and lived in old historic houses, which contributed to his early interest in building long rifles.

How did Jim's dad's half-stock Ohio rifle influence him?

Jim's dad bought an old half-stock Ohio rifle made by a local gunsmith, which was an early influence on Jim's interest in long rifles.

How did his grandparents' old CVA rifle kit influence Jim?

Jim's grandparents had an old CVA rifle kit that had belonged to his uncle, who never assembled it; Jim decided to put it together and shoot it.

Did the Foxfire Series books influence Jim's interest in gun making?

Jim's family had the Foxfire Series books at home, which included gun-making sections that Jim studied as a young person.

Which builders did Jim study in the Foxfire books?

Jim named Hershel House and Jim Chambers among the builders whose work he studied in the Foxfire Series books as he was learning about gun making.

Does Jim have an engineering background?

Jim went to college for engineering and worked as an engineer for a number of years before building custom rifles full time.

How long has Kibler's been offering flintlock rifle kits?

At the time of the Q&A session, the company had been offering flintlock rifle kits and components for about the last four years.

How did the kit business get started?

Jim said starting the kit business "sort of just kinda happened naturally," driven by his idea that kits could be produced differently and better than existing offerings.

How did Jim meet Katherine?

Jim met Katherine, who has a strong business mind and became the other half of running the company; many customers know her from phone interactions.

Did Jim have custom rifle building experience before starting the kit business?

Jim had significant experience building custom rifles before starting the kit business, which he said was important for knowing what a good rifle is and being able to design good kits.

Is Kibler's planning to release a Fowler kit?

Jim has said the company received overwhelming requests for a Fowler and expected the next new kit to be some kind of fowling piece, possibly English or American-made, with hopes to start work on it before the end of that year.

Will Kibler's ever offer a left-handed kit?

Jim has said the company will do at least one left-handed rifle kit, possibly a style in between a mountain rifle and a colonial rifle with a more Germanic-style lock.

Why hasn't Kibler's released a left-handed kit yet?

Jim explained the company is not trying to neglect left-handed customers but has focused initial efforts on products that give the quickest return for their effort.

What drew Jim to flintlocks?

Jim said flintlocks appealed to him because they are historical, functional, and artistic at the same time, calling that combination something that works well for him.

Does Kibler's use modern manufacturing to recreate historical designs?

Jim confirmed the company uses modern manufacturing techniques (implying things like 3D scanning of originals) to recreate 18th and 19th century designs without sacrificing quality.

How long does it take to develop a new kit?

Jim said developing a new kit can take about four, five, or six months of dedicated work, which is difficult while maintaining all other aspects of the business.

Why does Kibler's make its own locks in-house?

The company chose to make its own locks in different methods than other modern commercial locks in order to make them better and to control more of the manufacturing process.

What makes Kibler locks different from other commercial locks?

Jim said the biggest difference in Kibler locks is precision, achieved by using CNC machines to make most of the components.

Which lock components are not CNC machined?

The only lock components that are not CNC machined are the cock, the frizzen, and the top jaw.

Does the frizzen get any CNC machining?

Even though the frizzen is not fully CNC machined, it still has a lot of machining done on it with CNC machines.

Why are Kibler lock parts interchangeable?

Jim said the precision of CNC-machined lock parts leads to high quality, operability, and interchangeability of the parts.

What are Kibler's design goals for its locks?

In addition to precision, Jim said the company put great effort into making its locks as historically correct and aesthetically appealing as possible.

Did anyone else help design Kibler's locks?

Jim worked with Frank House on lock development, who offered critique and help based on his experience studying locks.

How is traditional metal engraving done?

Jim described the traditional metal engraving method as using a chisel or graver, either tapped with a hammer or pushed by hand to remove a sliver of material and create a shadow or contrast line.

Is engraving on long rifles difficult to learn?

Jim noted that historical engraving on long rifles is generally not too complex, so beginners can learn with practice.

Should I practice engraving before working on my rifle?

Jim recommended practicing engraving on scrap material before working on an actual rifle component.

What chisels should I start with for engraving?

Jim recommended a 1/4-inch chisel and an 1/8-inch chisel as the first chisels to buy for building a kit, noting that Kibler kits don't require many tools.

Do engraving chisels need to be high quality?

Jim said chisels do not have to be the highest quality; a decent quality tool works fine, with the main tradeoff of lower-cost tools being more frequent sharpening.

When will the late Ketland lock with a waterproof pan be available?

Jim said a late Ketland lock with a waterproof pan was expected to be available in late summer or early fall, differing from the current Ketland lock in the plate and frizzen.

Can Kibler's make custom modifications to a standard kit?

Jim explained the company is set up for production work and cannot accommodate custom requests, such as building a true poor-boy mountain rifle without a butt plate, side plate, or inletted ramrod thimble, because customizations create organizational and fixturing problems.

Do all kits come with the lock area already inletted?

The company does not offer kits without the lock area inletted; this remains standard on all kits.

Are seconds or discounted Colonial kits ever available?

The company sometimes has seconds or discounted colonial kits available, which may have a dark streak, bark inclusion, or a small machining problem like chips; customers should check in to see current availability.

Would Kibler's consider a Bucks County or Lehigh Valley style kit?

Jim mentioned Bucks County and Lehigh Valley rifle styles as ones he personally likes and considers for potential future kits, while noting the company must choose designs with maximum sales potential.

Will future kits be closer copies of original historical rifles?

Jim has said he would like to buy or borrow high quality original rifles to make closer copies for future kit styles, since staying true to originals gives a design a longer shelf life than incorporating his own stylistic choices.

How do I slot a barrel underlug by hand?

Jim recommended drilling a pinhole and elongating it into a rectangle using a jeweler's saw cut slightly undersized, then finishing it with a flat needle file, since the company does not yet offer pre-slotted underlugs.

How do I fix loose pin tension on a slotted underlug?

Jim explained that if pin tension on a slotted underlug is too loose, you can tap down the middle of the slot with a hammer and file the other side closer to the barrel to move the slot and adjust the fit.

Is Permalyn Sealer easy to use as a finish?

Jim said Permalyn Sealer is fairly easy to use as a finish and is not very different in application from Tried & True, the finish more commonly shown in their videos.

How should I apply finish coats like Permalyn or Tried & True?

Jim said the key with finishes like Permalyn and Tried & True is to apply them in thin coats, letting the first coat soak in and keeping subsequent coats very thin as they build up.

Is Kibler's planning to release a pistol kit?

Jim has said a pistol kit is likely next on the list after the Fowler, based on strong customer demand.

What is the largest caliber available for the mountain rifle kit?

Jim said the mountain rifle kit's largest available caliber is .45, in keeping with the slim, historically accurate proportions of most original mountain rifles, and that a .54 caliber version will not happen, though a .50 caliber could happen at some point.

Could Kibler's offer a cheaper kit around $750?

Jim said the company would like to offer a cheaper rifle or smoothbore around $750 but doubts it is achievable without huge sacrifices in quality, given their high standards, especially with locks included.

What lock and specs would a planned English Fowler kit have?

For a planned English Fowler kit, Jim said the company would probably use its existing round-faced lock, expected a bore of at least 20 gauge, and estimated a barrel length of up to 38 to 40 inches for an English-style gun or possibly longer for an American-made gun.

Would English walnut be offered as an upgrade for the Fowler kit?

Jim said English walnut would likely be offered as an optional wood upgrade for the planned English Fowler kit, though the company did not yet have a reliable source for it.

How important is wood selection in building a kit?

Jim said selecting good quality wood with the right characteristics is an important part of the company's process.

Do I need to stone the double-set triggers?

Jim said stoning the set triggers is not necessary because they are already finely finished; careful stoning might improve smoothness slightly, but improper stoning can cause more damage than benefit.

Is the American Longrifles forum a good source of information?

Jim referred to the American Longrifles (ALR) forum as a good source for information but advised taking online advice with a grain of salt.

Would Kibler's offer a laid English lock with a double-throated cock?

Jim said the company could offer a laid English lock with a double-throated cock as an option, describing it as not a big change to implement.

Is Kibler's planning to make a Hawken kit?

Jim has said a Hawken rifle kit would probably be good to offer at some point, citing a number of customer requests for it.

Do Kibler locks fit Jim Chambers lock mortises?

Jim confirmed that Kibler locks do not fit the mortises of rifles originally built with Jim Chambers locks, because the Kibler locks were designed from the ground up with different outside dimensions.

What finish do Kibler locks come in?

Kibler locks are supplied in a bead-blasted finish; the company does not offer them pre-polished or pre-engraved because handwork significantly slows production.

How do I position the set triggers relative to the sear?

Jim explained that pulling the front trigger back slightly and pushing the rear trigger forward slightly causes the trigger bars (sear bars) to cross, and that cross point is approximately where the triggers should be positioned relative to the sear.

Does Kibler's attend the Dixon's Gunmakers Fair?

Jim said the company does not plan to attend the Dixon's show, citing the time and cost of shows, though they may consider having representatives attend shows in the future.

Does Kibler's attend the CLA show?

Jim confirmed the company does attend the CLA (Contemporary Longrifle Association) show and said they may consider attending Dixon's in future years.

Why doesn't my ramrod fit the entry pipe or stock hole?

Jim said ramrods vary slightly in size and sometimes need to be sanded or scraped down to fit the entry pipe and stock hole; this is a common and expected part of the build process.

Why is the ramrod area in the stock tapered?

The area where the ramrod enters the stock is generally tapered, and ramrod tips are slightly smaller than the rod diameter, so builders are expected to taper the wood to match the metal tip using sandpaper on a block, a file, or a scraper.

Are the trigger plate and lock holes already drilled and tapped?

Jim confirmed the holes in the trigger plates of both rifles are drilled and tapped, and the holes for the locks in the stock are already drilled and tapped as well.

Do the CNC-machined inlets require much wood removal to fit the lock?

Because Kibler locks and stock inlets are made using CNC equipment, the locks fit into the stock with virtually no wood-removal modification needed.

What really caused Jim's black eye in that video?

Jim clarified in a Q&A follow-up that a black eye seen in a prior video was caused by shingles and partly by an incident with his two-year-old son, not by any conflict with Katherine.

How should I apply bone black to get the right color?

Jim said bone black should be applied in successive coats since you won't get all the desired color in one application, sealing between coats of finish.

Can high-solvent finishes smear bone black?

Jim warned that finishes with a lot of solvent can attack a previous coat of finish and smear bone black color, recommending a lower-solvent finish like Tried & True oil varnish instead.

When should I add most of the stock's color during finishing?

Jim advised getting most of the stock's color on early in the finishing process, since applying many coats of finish first and then trying to add bone black at the end does not work well because the sealed, smooth wood surface has little for the color to grab.

Can I use Permalyn with bone black?

Jim confirmed Permalyn can be used with bone black but has solvents, so it must be applied lightly without a lot of rubbing.

Can I get the mountain rifle with a shorter barrel?

Jim said the company will not offer the mountain rifle with a shorter barrel (such as 40 or 42 inches instead of 46) because it is too hard to make adjustments to their standardized process.

Do Kibler's barrels get seasoned or hardened?

Jim said Kibler barrels are not seasoned or hardened in any way, and considers the idea of "seasoning" a barrel to be a misconception, noting that ductile, softer barrel steel is actually preferable since it can change shape without fracturing.

Is Kibler's planning a Brown Bess musket kit?

Jim has said a Brown Bess musket kit (tied to the 250th anniversary of the American Revolution) has crossed his mind but he does not see strong customer interest yet, and remains unsure how significant the anniversary will be.

Is cherry wood prone to breaking across the grain?

Jim said cherry wood can be a little brittle, especially when cutting across the grain, with less shear strength than maple or walnut, so tools must be kept very sharp when working with it.

Can I use a lye solution to redden cherry wood?

Jim said some builders use a lye solution on cherry wood to bring out and intensify its red color.

Does sunlight darken cherry wood over time?

Jim said exposure to sunlight brings out and darkens the color of cherry wood naturally over time as it patinates, and this natural method just requires waiting.

Does potassium dichromate speed up cherry wood oxidation?

Jim mentioned potassium dichromate as a chemical that speeds up the oxidation of cherry wood, mimicking sunlight's effect much faster, though he cautioned it is a dangerous chemical and the company has not tested it themselves.

How do I sharpen a scraper?

Jim described sharpening a scraper by first filing and stoning a square corner, then rolling over a burr using a hardened steel burnisher.

Can I get replacement parts for an old Jim Chambers lock from Kibler's?

Jim said the company no longer uses Jim Chambers Flintlocks locks and does not stock replacement parts for those older components; customers should contact Jim Chambers Flintlocks directly for replacements.

How do I make a thin screwdriver for narrow lock screws?

Jim suggested options for a narrow lock screwdriver: use a knife file to open the slot slightly, find a very narrow screwdriver, or grind down a regular screwdriver on a belt sander or grinder to fit the slot.

Does Kibler's take custom rifle orders?

Jim confirmed the business does not take orders for full custom rifles because custom work takes a long time and is less profitable, though the shop occasionally finishes a kit rifle in-house on a rare basis.

Is Kibler's considering hiring a dedicated gunsmith?

Jim has said the company is considering hiring a skilled, energetic gunsmith to potentially do custom work in the shop, though he was unsure if this would happen.

Are small pits in cast brass parts a defect I should worry about?

Jim explained that cast brass parts sometimes have small pits due to casting defects, many of which file out with light filing; he considers small pits not offensive and even sometimes helpful to an aged appearance, though the company will replace parts customers are unhappy with.

Will Kibler's replace a brass part with a casting defect?

Jim said if a customer is unhappy with a casting defect in a brass part, the company will replace it.

What is the most significant thing I can do to make a Colonial rifle stand out?

Jim said the single most significant thing a builder can do to make a Colonial rifle kit stand out is appropriate, well-executed carving, even simple elements like lock moldings, a toe line, or carving around the comb.

What should I study to learn appropriate carving styles?

Jim recommended studying original rifle carving through books such as Rifles of Colonial America to learn appropriate carving styles.

Does Kibler's offer an introductory carving kit?

The company offers a small introductory carving kit that provides steps and a cast example of carving to help builders learn.

How is the introductory carving cast made?

The introductory carving cast is made by carving a master, creating a mold from it, then pouring plastic resin into the mold and staining it to represent the look of actual carving.

Is the carving cast more useful than a carving book?

Jim said the physical carving cast is arguably more important than the carving book because it lets a builder see the actual three-dimensional carving, which is harder to understand from a book image alone.

How do I diagnose a trigger that binds after finishing?

Jim explained that if a trigger binds after finishing, the builder should determine whether the binding is due to lack of top-of-trigger clearance (file the top of the trigger) or wood swelling and finish-related corrosion (address that cause specifically), rather than assuming one fix applies.

Can a complete beginner start with any kit style?

Jim said a complete beginner with zero kit-building experience can start with essentially any rifle style they want, whether Fowler, musket, or otherwise.

Do I need every tool on Kibler's published tool list?

Jim explained the company's published tool list reflects all the tools he personally uses and has available, but builders do not need every tool on that list to successfully build a kit.

Will Kibler's release a condensed basic tool list?

Jim has said he plans to create a condensed, basic tool list showing only what is truly needed to build a kit, possibly with a demonstration video assembling a kit with tools bought from a hardware store like Lowe's or Home Depot.

Is there a video demonstrating the patina solution?

Jim confirmed the company has a video demonstrating use of their patina solution available on their YouTube channel.

Are the lock bolts already drilled and tapped?

Jim confirmed the lock bolts on kits are already drilled and tapped, so builders assembling the kit do not need to do this step.

Are the tang and trigger plate holes already drilled and tapped?

Jim confirmed the tang holes and trigger plate holes are also drilled and tapped at the factory.

Are the underlugs drilled at the factory?

At the time of this session, underlugs were not yet drilled at the factory, though Jim said this was planned for the near future.

Are the ramrod thimbles pre-drilled on the Colonial and mountain rifle kits?

Jim said the thimbles on the Colonial rifle kit are already drilled, working out well for builders, but this is not yet the case for the mountain rifle kit.

Who is Mason and what does he do at Kibler's?

Mason had been with the company about two years at the time of the shop update video and was praised for doing a great job, having appeared in another video working with wood.

Who is Marshall and what does he do at Kibler's?

Marshall was the newest employee at the time of the shop update, having been with the company two days, and was shown running a lathe.

Who is Lorie and what does she do at Kibler's?

Lorie had been working with the company about a month or two at the time of the shop update and handled a combination of office duties and some shop work, mostly office.

Did order volume increase during the coronavirus period?

Jim said orders picked up significantly during the coronavirus slowdown period, and the company was working to react and increase production output.

Why did Kibler's switch to Green Mountain for barrel blanks?

The company began working with Green Mountain to produce barrel blanks, with Green Mountain boring, reaming, and rifling most calibers before Kibler's does the balance of the barrel work.

Which calibers does Kibler's rifle in-house versus Green Mountain?

Jim said Kibler's would rifle everything 40 caliber and below themselves, while Green Mountain rifles everything 45 caliber and above.

Why did Kibler's stop using Rice barrels?

The company stopped using Rice barrels after switching to the Green Mountain partnership, despite having had a great relationship with Jason at Rice.

Why did Kibler's bring barrel work in-house?

Jim explained bringing barrel work in-house fits the company's preference to control as much of the manufacturing process as possible and allows for significant cost savings despite the expense of new machinery.

What is Green Mountain's reputation for barrel quality?

Jim said Green Mountain is known for a great reputation for accuracy and bore quality and bore finish, and that switching to them is not a sacrifice in quality.

How does Kibler's bore barrels and thread the breech plug?

Jim described the in-house barrel process as first boring the barrel and threading it for a breech plug on a lathe, then machining the whole barrel including the breech plug in basically two setups.

How are the underlugs machined on the new barrels?

Kibler's new barrels have underlugs machined integrally into the barrel itself rather than dovetailed and fitted separately, which Jim acknowledged is historically unusual but simplifies their manufacturing process.

How is the touchhole installed on the new barrels?

The new barrels come with the touchhole installed and milled flat as part of the machining operation, ensuring perfect alignment since the breech plug is machined right on the barrel.

What shape do the new swamped barrels have compared to traditional ones?

Jim explained that unlike traditionally made swamped barrels formed from connected straight lines blended with a radius, the new Kibler barrels have a continuous curve shape without visible kinks.

Has Jim built an example Colonial rifle in walnut?

Jim showed a Colonial rifle kit he assembled himself, stocked in walnut, with carving and finishing done by his friend Ian.

How many Ketland lock plates does Kibler's produce in a batch?

At the time of the shop update, the company had made a batch of over 200 to 250 Ketland lock plates in the first operation of the manufacturing process.

Is a bowed ramrod a defect and can it be fixed?

Jim said a ramrod with a slight bow is not a defect; it can be straightened by bending it in the opposite direction, and rods do not need to be perfectly straight since a slight bow can help them spring and stay in the stock better.

How much bending force can the ramrods handle?

Jim said the ramrods supplied are good quality and can handle a fair amount of force when straightening without breaking.

Should I drill out the stock if the ramrod is too tight?

Jim strongly advised against drilling out the ramrod hole in the stock to fit a ramrod that seems too large, calling this a terrible idea; instead the ramrod itself should be scraped or sanded down to size.

How do I reduce the ramrod diameter to fit?

Jim described several methods to reduce ramrod diameter for proper fit: using a cabinet scraper, wrapping sandpaper around the rod and pulling it back and forth, or using a file or fine rasp.

Has Kibler's improved the ramrod reject rate?

Jim said the company changed ramrod suppliers and now has basically a zero reject rate on the rods, reflecting improved quality control.

Why is the ramrod tapered near the stock entry?

Jim noted that tapering the ramrod down near the stock entry to match the ramrod tip is very common to see on original historical rifles, so this is authentic rather than a flaw.

Is the small hole between the lock inlet and barrel channel normal?

Jim explained that a small hole visible between the lock inlet and the barrel channel is a normal part of the design providing clearance for the mainspring, is not a defect, and does not weaken the stock.

Do Kibler's lock inlets remove more material than original historical rifles?

Jim noted that most original lock inlets do not have as much material removed as Kibler's design does around the mainspring clearance area, meaning Kibler's inlet goes further than historical period examples for functional reasons.

Can I trip the lock with the frizzen open?

Jim stated it is not acceptable under any circumstances to trip (dry-fire) the lock without the frizzen closed, because without the frizzen absorbing energy, the cock comes to an abrupt stop that can bend the top jaw screw and is hard on the lock overall.

Do I need a flint to safely dry-fire the lock?

Jim said when tripping the lock with the frizzen closed, a customer does not need an actual flint in the jaws and can use a piece of wood instead.

How do I remove the tumbler from the cock?

Jim explained that the tumbler is press-fit into the cock and must be driven out with a punch, supported well on the backside, using a good sharp strike.

What kind of punch should I use to remove the tumbler?

Jim said a punch for driving out the tumbler can be made of brass or mild steel, is easy to make, and should be a square punch fitted to the size of the hole.

Does the tumbler shaft have a taper?

Jim said the tumbler shafts have a small two-degree taper, so once the press fit breaks free during removal, the tumbler comes out all at once.

Do the new Green Mountain barrels come with touchhole liners installed?

Jim confirmed all new barrels made in conjunction with Green Mountain have touchhole liners installed, and if a carbon steel liner was ordered, the liner ships installed as well.

How can I tell if I have a stainless steel touchhole liner?

Jim said stainless steel touchhole liners can be identified by their slightly different color compared to the surrounding barrel steel, with a small hole visible in the center.

Is it a problem if my older barrel doesn't show a touchhole liner?

Jim noted that in the past the company did not install touchhole liners, so customers should not be confused if a touchhole liner is missing or the barrel doesn't appear drilled and tapped for one on older kits, since the liner may simply be integrated differently or absent by original design.

How do I tell if a touchhole liner is installed?

Jim said to look for a hole through the side of the barrel about 1/16 inch or slightly bigger; if present, a touchhole liner is installed, which will be true for all Green Mountain barrels with the stainless steel liner.

Do carbon steel touchhole liners wear out faster than stainless?

Jim said carbon steel touchhole liners last much less time than stainless steel due to erosion from the powder charge and hot gases forced through the hole, and recommends stainless steel unless the customer is particular about matching the barrel's appearance.

Does building a kit require prior experience?

Jim said that with patience, careful work, watching videos, and reading instructions, almost anybody can successfully build one of their kit rifles regardless of prior experience or technical skill.

Can I build a kit on my kitchen table?

Jim said some customers have successfully built kits on their kitchen table with good results, since the kits do not require extensive tooling or workspace.

Is Kibler's next kit going to be a high-end trade gun?

Jim has said the next kit is more likely to be a high-end English-style trade gun (rather than a plain Fowler), inspired by an original Wilson trade gun pictured in the book Guns of Sorts for Provincials, believed to belong to Colonial Williamsburg.

What lock will the planned trade gun kit use?

Jim said the planned trade gun kit would likely use their existing round-face lock architecture but with a simplified cock and frizzen made specifically to suit the trade gun.

What will the barrel shape look like on the planned trade gun?

Jim described the planned trade gun's barrel as three-stage, going round from the muzzle to about the entry pipe, stepping up to a larger round second stage for a few inches, then transitioning to a final octagon stage with blended flats.

Will the planned trade gun feature a serpent side plate?

Jim noted the reference trade gun has a serpent side plate, a decorative feature that had fallen out of favor on high-end guns roughly 75 to 100 years before this gun was made but remained popular among lower-grade guns and certain customers such as Native American buyers.

What wood options will the planned trade gun kit have?

Jim said the planned trade gun would be most appropriate in walnut, ideally English walnut (though difficult to find), with black walnut as a great alternative choice, plus finishing supplies planned to help black walnut resemble English walnut.

When will the trade gun kit be released?

Jim has said the planned trade gun kit would likely be introduced in the next six to nine months from the time of the shop tour and FAQ video.

Will the planned trade gun use thin, light barrels?

Jim said the planned trade gun kit would use thin barrels rather than heavy-walled ones, matching the light weight typical of original trade guns.

Can I visit the shop to pick up my kit?

Jim explained the shop is a working production environment, not a retail store, so the company generally discourages customers from visiting to pick up products because it disrupts work.

Is Kibler's planning to host an open house or customer appreciation day?

Jim has said the company is considering hosting an open house, customer appreciation day, or shop visit day, potentially the following June to coincide with the CLA show weekend, possibly including food, a tent, and entertainment.

What are the two basic steps in finishing a gunstock?

Jim explained that finishing a gunstock involves two basic operations: staining the wood for color, then applying a finish on top to seal it and add sheen.

What is used to stain the wood, like iron nitrate or aniline dyes?

Jim said staining commonly uses iron nitrate, also called aqua fortis, or aniline dyes, and is most often applied to lighter woods such as maple.

Do walnut, cherry, and ash all get stained the same way?

Jim said walnut or cherry are occasionally stained to adjust color, while ash is typically always stained, unlike woods that may be left more natural.

What finishes does Kibler's recommend, Permalyn Sealer or Tried & True?

Jim said the company recommends two main finishes: Permalyn Sealer, which is durable, dries fast, and is easy to use, and Tried & True oil varnish, a more traditional linseed oil-based finish with rosin added.

Is Permalyn Sealer just a thinner version of Permalyn finish?

Jim explained Permalyn Sealer, despite being called a sealer, is appropriate to use through the entire finishing process because it is simply a thinner version of the company's standard Permalyn finish product.

Why do thinner Permalyn coats look nicer?

Jim said he and many other gunsmiths prefer using the thinner Permalyn Sealer version because it allows thinner coats spread more evenly, giving a nicer final appearance.

What is Tried & True oil varnish made of?

Jim described Tried & True oil varnish as a linseed oil-based finish with rosin added, which is partially polymerized so it cures faster than plain linseed oil.

Should I avoid hardware store linseed oil?

Jim explicitly advised against using hardware store linseed oil, recommending Tried & True oil varnish instead for anyone wanting a linseed oil-based finish.

Does sunlight speed up curing of Tried & True finish?

Jim said drying a thin coat of Tried & True oil varnish in the sun can cure it in about half a day, compared to five or six days or more when drying indoors, because the sun's UV rays help the curing process, not just heat.

When should I seal the inlets during finishing?

Jim said he likes to seal the inlets after the first coat of finish, and then usually assembles the gun and finishes it while assembled, to avoid building up finish inside the inlets that would prevent parts from fitting.

Do I need to neutralize iron nitrate after staining?

Jim said he personally does not neutralize iron nitrate (aqua fortis) after staining and has not had darkening problems over time, as long as the stain is kept out of the inlets, though he acknowledged some respected builders do neutralize it.

Why doesn't Kibler's iron nitrate need to be neutralized?

Jim explained that the company's iron nitrate product is depleted of acid as much as possible and further acid is driven off during heating, which is why he has not seen a need to neutralize it, unlike some other makers' more acidic products.

How do I neutralize iron nitrate with baking soda and water?

Jim said for those who prefer to neutralize iron nitrate, a concentrated baking soda and water solution brushed on and allowed to dry, then cleaned off, is the way to go.

What do I do if iron nitrate gets into the barrel channel?

Jim said if iron nitrate accidentally gets into the barrel channel, he uses a small artist brush with baking soda and water to neutralize it there, to avoid it contacting the barrel and causing a rough or corroded spot.

What caliber was the example barrel Jim showed during the shop tour?

During the shop tour, Jim showed an example barrel bore that happened to be 50 caliber as an illustration of the new manufacturing process.

How much does the Barn Gun Flintlock (Left Hand) cost?

The Flintlock Left-Hand Barn Gun starts at $1,100, same base price as the right-hand flintlock version.

Is the Barn Gun Flintlock (Left Hand) available in left-hand?

This Barn Gun variant is left hand, with a true left-hand lock and stock (not a mirrored right-hand part).

How long is the wait?

Kibler expects to begin shipping the Flintlock Left-Hand Barn Gun configuration around July 15; this is when shipping of this configuration starts, not the date a specific order arrives.

How much does the Barn Gun Flintlock (Right Hand) cost?

The Flintlock Right-Hand Barn Gun starts at $1,100.

Is the Barn Gun Flintlock (Right Hand) available in left-hand?

This Barn Gun variant is right hand.

How much does the Barn Gun Percussion (Left Hand) cost?

The Percussion Left-Hand Barn Gun starts at $995, same base price as the right-hand percussion version.

Is the Barn Gun Percussion (Left Hand) available in left-hand?

This Barn Gun variant is left hand, with a true left-hand lock and stock (not a mirrored right-hand part).

How much does the Barn Gun Percussion (Right Hand) cost?

The Percussion Right-Hand Barn Gun starts at $995.

Is the Barn Gun Percussion (Right Hand) available in left-hand?

This Barn Gun variant is right hand.

What wood options are available?

Barn Gun stock wood options are plain hard maple (standard/base wood), standard curly maple, fancy curly maple, extra fancy curly maple, walnut, and cherry.

How much does the Appalachian Barn Gun Kit cost?

Standard Curly Maple adds $40 over the plain hard maple base price.

What comes in the Appalachian Barn Gun Kit kit?

Barn Gun hardware is iron throughout, with a triggerguard pattern hand-forged by Ian Pratt, two ramrod pipes, and lock bolt washers.

Does Kibler offer a finishing service?

No deposit is required to place a Barn Gun order.

How much does the Colonial cost?

Colonial base kit price is $1375 in Standard Maple (approx. 5-35% curl) or Cherry.

Is the Colonial available in left-hand?

Colonial is available right hand only.

What comes in the Colonial kit?

Colonial kit includes: stock, barrel, lock, trigger and plate, touch hole liner (installed), buttplate, trigger guard, entry pipe, two forward ramrod pipes, nose cap, side plate, underlugs, ramrod, ramrod tip, front and rear sights, lock bolts, tang bolt, sliding wood box lid, box lid catch spring, pin stock, buttplate screws, and a drill guide/bushing kit.

How much does the Fowler cost?

Fowler base kit price is $1560 in Standard Maple (approx. 5-35% curl) or Cherry.

Is the Fowler available in left-hand?

The Fowler is available right hand only at this time.

What comes in the Fowler kit?

Fowler kit includes: stock, barrel, lock, brass thumb piece, trigger and plate, touch hole liner (installed in barrel), buttplate, trigger guard, entry pipe, two forward ramrod pipes, side plate, ramrod, ramrod tip, front sight (soldered onto barrel), lock bolts, tang bolt, pin stock, and buttplate screws.

How much does the Hawken cost?

Hawken base kit price is $1725 in Maple or Cherry, no patchbox, no inlay package.

Is the Hawken available in left-hand?

The Hawken kit is available right hand only.

How much does the SMR cost?

SMR base kit price is $1375 in Standard Maple (approx. 5-35% curl) or Cherry.

Is the SMR available in left-hand?

SMR is available right hand only.

What comes in the SMR kit?

SMR kit includes: stock, barrel, CNC Ketland lock, Kibler double-set trigger, touch hole liner, buttplate, trigger guard, 3 ramrod pipes, lock bolt washer, 4 underlugs, 5/16 hickory ramrod, tapered ramrod tip, front sight, rear sight, lock bolt, forward tang bolt, rear tang bolt, .037" pin stock, buttplate screws, and a drill guide kit (drills, guide, and tap).

How much does the Woodsrunner cost?

Woodsrunner base kit price is $1435 in Standard Maple (approx. 5-35% curl) or Cherry.

Is the Woodsrunner available in left-hand?

Woodsrunner is available right hand only.

What comes in the Woodsrunner kit?

Woodsrunner kit includes: stock, barrel, lock, trigger and plate, touch hole liner (installed in barrel), buttplate, trigger guard, entry pipe, two forward ramrod pipes, nose cap, side plate, ramrod, ramrod tip, front and rear sights, lock bolts, tang bolt, sliding wood box lid, box lid catch spring, pin stock, and buttplate screws.

Who is the Woodsrunner Rifle for?

The most approachable longrifle in the lineup — the one first-time builders and gift-givers get pointed to. Light, easy to carry, friendly first build. Patterned after an original frontier rifle believed made in Virginia in the 1760s and called the "Woodsrunner."

What are the specs of the Woodsrunner Rifle?

Flintlock. Round-Faced English lock included. Calibers .45, .50, .54 (rifled) plus .50 and .54 smoothbore. 39 3/4" swamped barrel. Weight 7.5-8 lbs. Pull 13 7/16", cast-off 3/16". Drop at heel 3-3.25", drop at comb 1.75-2". Butt width 2", butt height 5". Brass hardware. Single trigger. Sliding wood patchbox. Right hand only.

How much does the Woodsrunner Rifle cost?

Standard Maple or Cherry $1,435. Fancy Maple or Walnut $1,660. Extra Fancy Maple $1,860. Customer-supplied stock $1,375. Carving optional: Relief +$295, Incised +$415. In-the-white assembly add-on $525.

What is the historical basis of the Woodsrunner Rifle?

Patterned after an original frontier rifle, often called the "Woodsrunner," believed made in Virginia in the 1760s.

What are the options on the Woodsrunner Rifle?

No Carving (fastest to finish). CNC Relief Carving +$295 (raised, dimensional, pairs with fancy maple). CNC Incised Carving +$415 (cut into surface, flatter, less bump-prone during handling and finishing). Comb pattern: pick option or write "Surprise Me" in order notes.

Can I supply my own wood for the Woodsrunner Rifle?

Customer wood needs to be 57.5" long and 2.25" thick.

Who is the Kibler Fowler for?

Classic English smoothbore. Styled after smoothbores produced in England and exported to the colonies in the 1760s-1770s — the kind sold at general stores and among the most common firearms of the day. "It is the sort of gun an American would have carried." A favorite for re-enactors.

What are the specs of the Kibler Fowler?

Flintlock smoothbore. CNC Round-Faced English lock. 16 or 20 gauge (20 gauge recommended for round ball). Weight ~6.5 lbs (16 ga) or ~7 lbs (20 ga). Length of pull 13 5/8". Overall ~60", 44" barrel. Thin-walled lightweight 3-stage barrel: round forward, larger-diameter round middle, octagon breech. Soldered front sight, no rear sight. Brass hardware including relief-cast thumb piece. Single trigger. Right hand only at this time.

How much does the Kibler Fowler cost?

Standard Maple or Cherry $1,560. Fancy Maple or Walnut $1,785. Extra Fancy Maple $1,985. Customer-supplied stock $1,500. In-the-white $525 (arrange by phone or email).

What are the options on the Kibler Fowler?

Walnut is encouraged. Also available in maple and cherry. Minimum customer blank 62" × 2" × 8".

What comes in the Kibler Fowler kit?

CNC-machined stock with relief shell carving around the tang, relief lock moldings, and beaver tails. All holes drilled. Minimal part fitting required. Breech plug fully machined and shaped.

Who is the Southern Mountain Rifle for?

The Southern Mountain Rifle is the slim, iron-mounted rifle of the southern Appalachians, built after the 1820s work of Whitson in western North Carolina. Later style than the Revolution-era kits — lean and plain where the longrifles are brass-mounted and ornate. Small-bore options make it light to carry and economical to shoot; favored for offhand and small game.

What are the specs of the Southern Mountain Rifle?

Flintlock, iron-mounted. Kibler CNC Ketland lock included. Calibers .32, .36, .40, .45 rifled. 44" custom-profiled barrel, breech .938", waist ~.700", square-bottom rifling. Pull ~13.75", drop ~3 5/8", no cast-off. Buttplate ~1.375" wide × 4.5" tall. Kibler CNC double-set triggers. Right hand only.

How much does the Southern Mountain Rifle cost?

Standard Maple or Cherry $1,375. Fancy Maple or Walnut $1,600. Extra Fancy Maple $1,800. Customer-supplied stock $1,315. Includes Kibler CNC Ketland lock. US shipping typically $75-$100.

What is the historical basis of the Southern Mountain Rifle?

Styled after 1820s work of Whitson in western North Carolina. Iron-mounted style is distinctly Appalachian and later than the brass-mounted colonial longrifles.

What comes in the Southern Mountain Rifle kit?

Stock, barrel, CNC Ketland lock, Kibler double-set trigger, touch hole liner, buttplate, trigger guard, 3 ramrod pipes, lock bolt washer, 4 underlugs, 5/16 hickory ramrod, tapered ramrod tip, front and rear sights, lock bolt, forward tang bolt, rear tang bolt, .037" pin stock, buttplate screws, drill guide kit (drills, guide, tap).

Can I supply my own wood for the Southern Mountain Rifle?

Minimum blank size 2" × 61" × 7". Save $60 vs standard maple. Customer bears risk for hidden checks, knots, and high moisture.

Who is the Appalachian Barn Gun for?

A plain working rifle built for use rather than show. No buttplate, no nose cap, no entry pipe, no sideplate, no patchbox. The rifles that "fed families and stayed by the door" in the most rugged country in the eastern US. Jim drew it directly from an original barn gun in a friend's collection, true to the period.

What are the specs of the Appalachian Barn Gun?

Flintlock, late Ketland lock (right hand). Calibers .32, .36, .40, .45, .50 cut rifling plus .50 smoothbore. 38" swamped barrel, 1.00" at breech, .750" at waist. Length of pull 13 3/8", drop at heel 2 3/4", drop at comb 1 5/8". Single trigger ~2.5 lb pull. Weight ~6-7 lbs depending on caliber. Iron hardware throughout. Triggerguard pattern hand-forged by Ian Pratt. Two ramrod pipes, lock bolt washers. Period: Appalachian 1800-1830.

How much does the Appalachian Barn Gun cost?

From $1,100 with Plain Hard Maple or Cherry (grease hole). Standard Curly Maple +$40. Fancy Curly Maple +$225. Extra Fancy Curly Maple +$425. Walnut +$225. Customer-supplied stock -$60. Everything included — lock, barrel, stock, all hardware. No deposit required.

What are the options on the Appalachian Barn Gun?

Grease hole is a recommended option. Holds a small amount of patch lubricant, is traditional on this style of rifle, and looks right at home. Available in every wood/caliber configuration alongside a "No Grease Hole" variant.

Which caliber should I choose for the Appalachian Barn Gun?

For hunting, Jim suggests .45 caliber. Large enough to take whitetail deer and still makes for an easy-handling rifle.

What is the historical basis of the Appalachian Barn Gun?

Appalachian, 1800-1830. Jim drew this one directly from an original barn gun in a friend's collection. Configurations: flintlock or percussion, right or left hand (four total product listings).

Is the Appalachian Barn Gun available in left-hand?

Barn Gun is available in both right-hand and left-hand configurations, in both flintlock and percussion. Left-hand is a distinguishing feature — all other Kibler kits are right-hand only.

Who is the J.K. Hawken Rifle for?

Kibler take on the Hawken plains rifle of the mid-1800s St. Louis and western frontier — the half-stock percussion rifle that went west with hunters and travelers. Authentic to the spirit of the originals. Percussion (reliable, straightforward) makes it a good first muzzleloader. Rated easy for beginners.

What are the specs of the J.K. Hawken Rifle?

Percussion. Kibler CNC Hawken percussion lock included. Calibers .45, .50, .54, .58 rifled. Barrel twist 1:48 to 1:70 depending on caliber. Half-stock. 31" barrel to standing breech. Tapered profile: 1.062" at breech, .900" at muzzle. Interchangeable barrels (fixed outer dimensions). Length of pull 13 5/8", drop at heel 3.5", no cast-off. Double-set triggers. Weight ~8.5 lbs (.45) to ~7.5 lbs (.58). Right hand only.

How much does the J.K. Hawken Rifle cost?

Base prices: Maple/Cherry $1,725, Fancy Maple/Walnut $1,900, Extra Fancy Maple $2,075, Customer Wood $1,685. Inlay Package add-on +$110 (German silver oval cheek and key escutcheons). Iron Patchbox add-on +$190. Both add-ons combined tops out at $2,375 for Extra Fancy Maple.

What is the historical basis of the J.K. Hawken Rifle?

Hawken plains rifle of the mid-1800s St. Louis and western frontier. Half-stock percussion. Kibler describes the kit as "authentic to the spirit of the originals" rather than a direct copy.

What are the options on the J.K. Hawken Rifle?

Inlay Package (+$110): German silver oval cheek and key escutcheons. Patchbox (+$190): iron. Sold as independent options — customer can pick either, both, or neither.

What is the wait time for the J.K. Hawken Rifle?

Wait times approximately 1-3 months (longer window than the 1-2 months quoted on the other kits).

Can I supply my own wood for the J.K. Hawken Rifle?

Customer wood size: 31" × 6" × 2". Save $40 vs Maple/Cherry.

Who is the Colonial American Longrifle for?

The full-size American longrifle built after rifles of the 1760s-1770s. Bigger, stronger, bolder architecture than the Woodsrunner, longer barrel, more presence in the hand. The rifle for a builder who wants the classic full-size longrifle and is ready for a larger, more involved project.

What are the specs of the Colonial American Longrifle?

Flintlock. Kibler CNC Round-Faced English lock included. Calibers .50, .54, .58 rifled plus .54 and .58 smoothbore. Brass-mounted. 43.25" custom-profiled barrel, breech 1.125", waist ~.800", square-bottom rifling. Pull ~13 5/8", drop ~2 3/4", cast-off ~3/16". Buttplate ~2" wide × slightly over 5" tall. Single trigger. Right hand only.

How much does the Colonial American Longrifle cost?

Standard Maple or Cherry $1,375. Fancy Maple or Walnut $1,600. Extra Fancy Maple $1,800. Customer-supplied stock $1,315. Sliding wood patchbox available at no extra charge. In-the-white assembly add-on $700.

What are the options on the Colonial American Longrifle?

Wood Patch Box (traditional sliding wood lid, historical Colonial-era pattern) or No Patch Box (solid buttstock, simpler to finish, slightly lighter). No price difference between the two.

Which caliber should I choose for the Colonial American Longrifle?

.50 rifled = lightest recoil, effective on deer, sensible default. .54 rifled = step up in power. .54 smooth = round ball or shot (confirm state legality). .58 rifled = largest, most knockdown power. .58 smooth = largest smoothbore, same versatility as .54 smooth scaled up.

Can I supply my own wood for the Colonial American Longrifle?

Minimum blank size 2.5" × 60" × 7". Save $60. Customer bears risk for hidden defects.

Why Won't the lock bolt fit through?

If your lock bolt won't fit through try this: Check to see if your barrel is all the way against the stock at the breech. Does it go through the barrel in place? Determine if the tap from the drill guide kit will be enough to make it work. If not, use a small round file to elongate whichever hole- either the one in the barrel (metal), or the one in the stock (wood).

How to finish Walnut and Cherry stocks?

You only need to use a sealer or oil of your choice. You can adjust the color with aniline dyes. We sell a few Dangler's Stains

What are the differences between Tried & True Varnish Oil and Kibler Sealer/Finish?

Tried & True takes longer to dry between coats, putting it out in the sunshine helps a lot. You should plan on applying at least 4 coats, making sure to dry fully between coats. It may take 3 to 4 days to dry between coats. This will give you a nice finish that is not as shiny as permalyn. You can cut 50/50 with turpentine if you want it thinner but you do not have to. Kibler Sealer/Finish is made by us and also sold on our website. Put only one coat in the inlets, making sure that you use a paintbrush or something to get it out of all the small areas where it may tend to pool. You can plan on applying at least 4-5 coats, but it really is up to your own taste. This dries a little shinier, but you can also use pumice powder to rub back the shine a little. It dries faster than tried and true, but you still need to make sure it is dry before you apply the next coat. You can use scotch brite to apply them both.

Do you carry Tried & True Varnish Oil?

We only carry our sealer/finish, but you can get tried and true on Amazon or at stores that sell woodworking products. The type of tired and true that Jim uses the most is Tried & True Varnish Oil.

What is a Quick ship kit?

Quick ships are not the same as "short wait times." These are stocks that have some kind of blemish, or chip. They will be discounted according to the degree of blemish or chip. These kits need to be paid in full at the time of order and we will ship them within a week. We will send you a tracking number when we ship them, but you won't be contacted before hand. It is best to make a note on your order or call us if you know that you need us to hold on to these a little longer.

How do I order a kit?

You can order our kits online, through email, or you can call us and we can take your order over the phone at 330-551-5844.

What is the tap for?

We included a tap in your drill guide kit. this is for you to use in case the lock bolt or bolts do not line up. They can be just a tiny bit off. -Not included in WR.

What do you use to finish metal parts?

We use Jax Black on our iron parts to give it the aged black/pewter color. Jax Brown is what we use to age brass parts to make them look antiqued/darker. Dangler's Browning Solution is what you would use to get the "rusty" look.

Am I able to order replacement parts?

Yes. Most of our parts are listed on our website at https://kiblerslongrifles.com/collections/hardware. You can also email us with your order or call us and we can help you over the phone.

Why won't the lock stay in the half cock position?

You may be missing a fly.

Why does the Southern Mountain Rifle kit include two tang bolts?

Some customers have noticed that the tang bolt on the SMR is not recessed enough to be flush with the stock. We included two bolts so you can use whichever one fits the best for your preference.

Staining with aniline dyes

We get them from Laurel Mountain Forge, and they have many more colors on their website. These stains can be used on their own, or on top of iron nitrate to achieve certain colors. You can even dip your scotch brite pad in a little bit of your finishing oil, then the dye and rub it on the stock that way. Staining is really just a matter of preference, it takes some experimentation on your part to get the look that you are wanting. -If you mess up, or really hate your stain, you can use some sandpaper wrapped around a file, or wooden block and sand the stain back off.

How to apply iron nitrate?

You can use iron nitrate on maple and ash. You can use two coats, so you don't miss anything. Let the first coat dry before applying the second. The second coat will not make the stock ay darker, it will just help to ensure that you got everything covered. You do not have to do two coats. You need to use a heat gun, a regular hair dryer will NOT work. You do not need an expensive heat gun, we have used one from Harbor Freight and it has worked just fine. Don't hold the heat gun too close because you can burn your stock. Also, the color won't fully come out until you apply your finishing oil. You can always request some scraps to be added to your kit for practice.

The touch hole liner and underlugs are not in the kit bag.

The touch hole liner and underlugs are already installed in the barrel.

How will my kit ship to me?

We ship our kits through UPS. We contact you to make sure that you are ready for your kit, and verify your shipping address before we ship your kit to you. At that time, if you know that you will be out of town, we will hold off on shipping until you know that somebody will be there to get the kit. We also email you a tracking number when we ship the kit.

Do I need gunsmithing experience or a shop full of tools to build one of your kits?

No. That is the whole point of what we do. Our kits are machined on multi-axis CNC equipment to tolerances that let the parts go together with basic hand tools, with no gunsmithing, no metalworking, and no wood removal to make things fit. If you can follow careful instructions and work patiently, you can build a rifle you will be proud to own. Plenty of our builders start with no prior experience at all.

What does "zero wood removal" actually mean?

It means the barrel, lock, and hardware are inletted so precisely that everything seats where it should, right out of the box. With most kits, a builder has to remove wood to fit oversized parts, and that is where the historical architecture gets lost and mistakes happen. We machine the inletting to match the parts, so the correct lines of the rifle are already there. Your job is to assemble, shape the outside to taste, and finish.

Why does the smaller caliber weigh more than the larger one?

Within any one model, the outside of the barrel is a single fixed profile, the same octagon and contour whatever the caliber. The only thing that changes from one caliber to the next is how much steel gets bored out of the middle. A smaller bore leaves more steel in the barrel, so that rifle comes out heavier. A larger bore removes more steel, so it finishes lighter. On the J.K. Hawken, a .45 runs about 8 1/2 pounds while a .58 comes in around 7 1/2. If you want more weight out front to steady your hold, lean toward the smaller calibers. If you want the lightest carry, go larger. It is also why the Hawken barrels are interchangeable, since the outer dimensions stay the same across calibers.

Rifled or smooth, what is the difference?

A rifled barrel spins the ball for accuracy at distance and is the choice for target work and hunting with a patched round ball. A smooth bore trades some of that precision for versatility, since it can shoot round ball or shot, which suits a fowling piece or an all-purpose frontier smoothbore. Our Fowler is smooth by design, and several rifle models offer a smooth-bore option in the larger calibers.

Are flintlocks unreliable?

That reputation comes almost entirely from cheap, poorly made imports with bad lock geometry and heavy trigger pulls. A quality flintlock with correct geometry, like the CNC locks we build, is remarkably reliable. Sparks land where they should, ignition is fast and consistent, and a well-tuned flint rifle will fire shot after shot. Reliability is a matter of quality, not of the ignition system itself.

Is a patched round ball really enough for deer or larger game?

Within sensible muzzleloading distances, roughly 100 to 125 yards, a round ball of the right caliber has taken North American game of every size for centuries. The key is choosing an appropriate caliber for your quarry and getting close enough for a clean, well-placed shot, which is exactly the kind of hunting these rifles were made for. Always check your state regulations for caliber minimums and legal seasons.

Does the touch-hole have to be level with the top of the pan, the "sunset" position?

It does not. That is a long-standing bit of folklore. Careful timing tests by researcher Larry Pletcher have shown that a touch-hole placed slightly lower in the pan gives ignition that is every bit as fast as the classic sunset position, sometimes marginally faster. Good geometry and a clean vent matter far more than chasing an exact height.

What is involved in finishing the stock?

You will take the wood from the machined surface down through progressively finer grits, starting around 150 and working to 220, and whisker the wood by dampening and re-sanding before staining so the grain does not raise later. From there, most builders use iron nitrate to color the wood, then seal and oil.

What are iron nitrate and tannic acid, and why do people use them?

Iron nitrate, also called aqua fortis or ferric nitrate, is the traditional stain for a maple stock. You brush it on, then activate it with heat, and the color blushes from a dull grey-green to a rich red-brown. On curly maple, brushing on tannic acid first deepens the contrast in the curl, giving the striking black-grey figure builders prize. Neutralize any stain that reaches the barrel channel or inlets with a little baking soda and water so nothing rusts underneath later.

Is there a safety rule I should know before I work on the lock?

Yes, and it is the important one. Never trip the lock unless the frizzen is closed. With the frizzen open there is nothing to absorb the energy of the cock, and that sudden stop can bend the top-jaw screw or damage the lock internals. Snap it only against a closed frizzen.

Are these historically accurate?

That is the heart of what we do. Rather than copy modern, stylized ideas of what a longrifle should look like, we study original, museum-grade examples and reproduce their true architecture and lines. Gunmaking in the 18th century was a skilled professional trade, and the carving, the engraving, and above all the graceful proportions were the work of real craftsmen. Our kits are built to honor that standard.

What is the Barn Gun, and does part of the sale go to charity?

The Appalachian Barn Gun is our plainest, most affordable rifle. It is iron-mounted, with no buttplate, nose cap, entry pipe, side plate, or patchbox, exactly like the honest working rifles it is based on. A portion of the proceeds from every Barn Gun goes to the Hershel House Foundation, supporting the traditional crafts that keep this work alive.

Where are your kits made?

Right here in Ohio. What started in a 500-square-foot pole building has grown into a shop of about fifteen specialists in design, production, and logistics, running some of the most precise machinery in the muzzleloading world.

Do you offer kit-building workshops?

Yes. Kibler kit workshops are taught by Gary Ludwig at The Log Cabin Sport Shop in Lodi, Ohio. The 2026 dates are February 15 to 20 and September 21 to 26 for all flintlock kits, and October 19 to 24 for Hawken kits only. Each is a six-day hands-on workshop limited to six students, aimed at novice builders or builders wanting sharper technique. The fee is $725 including the materials fee. Tools and the rifle kit are separate and must be purchased before the workshop. A family scholarship is mentioned in the flyer.

Can I choose a carbon steel touch hole liner for my kit barrel?

No. Touch hole liners are installed during production, and a kit barrel comes with a stainless liner. Carbon steel is not an option to select for a kit barrel.

Can I still buy a carbon steel touch hole liner?

Yes. Touch hole liners are sold separately in both carbon steel and stainless steel, for a kit barrel or any other project.

Can I replace the touch hole liner that came installed in my barrel?

Yes. The installed liner can be backed out with an easy-out tool and replaced with a liner of your choosing.

Do barrels from different suppliers differ in shape?

No. Bored and rifled blanks come from three suppliers, and Kibler's machines the outside of every blank to the same finished profile.

Are barrels from Rice, Green Mountain, and Colerain interchangeable?

Yes. All three suppliers provide bored and rifled blanks, and Kibler's machines them to the same finished dimensions, so they are interchangeable.

Can I choose which barrel maker I get with my kit?

No. Which supplier's blank goes into a kit depends on what is in stock. Requesting a specific maker can add months to the wait, and there is no discernible difference in the finished barrel.

Is barrel quality the same across all three suppliers?

Yes. Blanks from Rice, Green Mountain, and Colerain are equivalent in quality.

Does anything actually differ between the barrel suppliers?

Twist rate can differ by supplier for a given caliber. The finished shape, the dimensions, and the quality do not.

Can I order a replacement barrel in a different caliber?

Yes. The replacement barrel has to match the same model, the same handedness, and the same lock type. A left hand barrel is not interchangeable with a right hand barrel, and a percussion barrel is not interchangeable with a flintlock barrel. The supplier of the blank does not matter.

Is the Appalachian Barn Gun offered in left hand?

Yes. A left hand Barn Gun is offered. Left hand and right hand barrels are not interchangeable with each other.

Jim's Answers

Barrel boring and breech plug threading process

Jim described the in-house barrel process as first boring the barrel and threading it for a breech plug on a lathe, then machining the whole barrel including the breech plug in basically two setups.

Batch production of Ketland lock plates

At the time of the shop update, the company had made a batch of over 200 to 250 Ketland lock plates in the first operation of the manufacturing process.

CNC machining used for most lock components

Jim said the biggest difference in Kibler locks is precision, achieved by using CNC machines to make most of the components.

CNC-machined inlets require virtually no wood removal

Because Kibler locks and stock inlets are made using CNC equipment, the locks fit into the stock with virtually no wood-removal modification needed.

End of relationship with Rice barrels

The company stopped using Rice barrels after switching to the Green Mountain partnership, despite having had a great relationship with Jason at Rice.

Frizzen still has significant CNC work

Even though the frizzen is not fully CNC machined, it still has a lot of machining done on it with CNC machines.

Green Mountain's reputation for accuracy and bore quality

Jim said Green Mountain is known for a great reputation for accuracy and bore quality and bore finish, and that switching to them is not a sacrifice in quality.

Integral underlugs machined directly on the barrel

Kibler's new barrels have underlugs machined integrally into the barrel itself rather than dovetailed and fitted separately, which Jim acknowledged is historically unusual but simplifies their manufacturing process.

Jim referenced a 50 caliber barrel example

During the shop tour, Jim showed an example barrel bore that happened to be 50 caliber as an illustration of the new manufacturing process.

Kibler locks do not fit Chambers lock mortises

Jim confirmed that Kibler locks do not fit the mortises of rifles originally built with Jim Chambers locks, because the Kibler locks were designed from the ground up with different outside dimensions.

Kibler's rifles calibers 40 and below vs above

Jim said Kibler's would rifle everything 40 caliber and below themselves, while Green Mountain rifles everything 45 caliber and above.

Lock components not CNC machined

The only lock components that are not CNC machined are the cock, the frizzen, and the top jaw.

Lock design goals: historical correctness and aesthetics

In addition to precision, Jim said the company put great effort into making its locks as historically correct and aesthetically appealing as possible.

Lock part interchangeability due to precision

Jim said the precision of CNC-machined lock parts leads to high quality, operability, and interchangeability of the parts.

Locks made in-house

The company chose to make its own locks in different methods than other modern commercial locks in order to make them better and to control more of the manufacturing process.

New Green Mountain barrels come with touchhole liners installed

Jim confirmed all new barrels made in conjunction with Green Mountain have touchhole liners installed, and if a carbon steel liner was ordered, the liner ships installed as well.

New barrels have a continuous swamped curve shape

Jim explained that unlike traditionally made swamped barrels formed from connected straight lines blended with a radius, the new Kibler barrels have a continuous curve shape without visible kinks.

No replacement parts for Chambers locks used previously

Jim said the company no longer uses Jim Chambers Flintlocks locks and does not stock replacement parts for those older components; customers should contact Jim Chambers Flintlocks directly for replacements.

Switch to Green Mountain for barrel blanks

The company began working with Green Mountain to produce barrel blanks, with Green Mountain boring, reaming, and rifling most calibers before Kibler's does the balance of the barrel work.

Touchhole installed and milled flat during machining

The new barrels come with the touchhole installed and milled flat as part of the machining operation, ensuring perfect alignment since the breech plug is machined right on the barrel.

Tumbler shaft has a 2 degree taper

Jim said the tumbler shafts have a small two-degree taper, so once the press fit breaks free during removal, the tumbler comes out all at once.

Adjusting pin tension on a slotted underlug

Jim explained that if pin tension on a slotted underlug is too loose, you can tap down the middle of the slot with a hammer and file the other side closer to the barrel to move the slot and adjust the fit.

Cherry wood is prone to breaking across the grain

Jim said cherry wood can be a little brittle, especially when cutting across the grain, with less shear strength than maple or walnut, so tools must be kept very sharp when working with it.

Colonial rifle thimbles pre-drilled, mountain rifle thimbles not

Jim said the thimbles on the Colonial rifle kit are already drilled, working out well for builders, but this is not yet the case for the mountain rifle kit.

Diagnosing trigger binding after finishing

Jim explained that if a trigger binds after finishing, the builder should determine whether the binding is due to lack of top-of-trigger clearance (file the top of the trigger) or wood swelling and finish-related corrosion (address that cause specifically), rather than assuming one fix applies.

Dry-firing the lock safely with wood instead of flint

Jim said when tripping the lock with the frizzen closed, a customer does not need an actual flint in the jaws and can use a piece of wood instead.

Lock bolts pre-drilled and tapped

Jim confirmed the lock bolts on kits are already drilled and tapped, so builders assembling the kit do not need to do this step.

Method for slotting barrel underlugs by hand

Jim recommended drilling a pinhole and elongating it into a rectangle using a jeweler's saw cut slightly undersized, then finishing it with a flat needle file, since the company does not yet offer pre-slotted underlugs.

Methods to reduce ramrod diameter

Jim described several methods to reduce ramrod diameter for proper fit: using a cabinet scraper, wrapping sandpaper around the rod and pulling it back and forth, or using a file or fine rasp.

Neutralizing stray iron nitrate in the barrel channel

Jim said if iron nitrate accidentally gets into the barrel channel, he uses a small artist brush with baking soda and water to neutralize it there, to avoid it contacting the barrel and causing a rough or corroded spot.

Positioning set triggers using the sear bar cross point

Jim explained that pulling the front trigger back slightly and pushing the rear trigger forward slightly causes the trigger bars (sear bars) to cross, and that cross point is approximately where the triggers should be positioned relative to the sear.

Ramrod area in stock is tapered

The area where the ramrod enters the stock is generally tapered, and ramrod tips are slightly smaller than the rod diameter, so builders are expected to taper the wood to match the metal tip using sandpaper on a block, a file, or a scraper.

Ramrods can withstand significant bending force

Jim said the ramrods supplied are good quality and can handle a fair amount of force when straightening without breaking.

Removing the tumbler from the cock is a press fit

Jim explained that the tumbler is press-fit into the cock and must be driven out with a punch, supported well on the backside, using a good sharp strike.

Tang and trigger plate holes pre-drilled and tapped

Jim confirmed the tang holes and trigger plate holes are also drilled and tapped at the factory.

Trigger plate and lock holes pre-drilled and tapped

Jim confirmed the holes in the trigger plates of both rifles are drilled and tapped, and the holes for the locks in the stock are already drilled and tapped as well.

Underlugs not yet drilled at time of recording

At the time of this session, underlugs were not yet drilled at the factory, though Jim said this was planned for the near future.

Barrel seasoning or hardening is not done

Jim said Kibler barrels are not seasoned or hardened in any way, and considers the idea of "seasoning" a barrel to be a misconception, noting that ductile, softer barrel steel is actually preferable since it can change shape without fracturing.

Company will replace defective brass parts on request

Jim said if a customer is unhappy with a casting defect in a brass part, the company will replace it.

Do not drill out the stock to fit a tight ramrod

Jim strongly advised against drilling out the ramrod hole in the stock to fit a ramrod that seems too large, calling this a terrible idea; instead the ramrod itself should be scraped or sanded down to size.

Do not use hardware store linseed oil

Jim explicitly advised against using hardware store linseed oil, recommending Tried & True oil varnish instead for anyone wanting a linseed oil-based finish.

Get most stock color on early, not at the end

Jim advised getting most of the stock's color on early in the finishing process, since applying many coats of finish first and then trying to add bone black at the end does not work well because the sealed, smooth wood surface has little for the color to grab.

Kibler lock inlets go beyond what originals had

Jim noted that most original lock inlets do not have as much material removed as Kibler's design does around the mainspring clearance area, meaning Kibler's inlet goes further than historical period examples for functional reasons.

Neutralizing iron nitrate is not strictly necessary

Jim said he personally does not neutralize iron nitrate (aqua fortis) after staining and has not had darkening problems over time, as long as the stain is kept out of the inlets, though he acknowledged some respected builders do neutralize it.

Never trip the lock with the frizzen open

Jim stated it is not acceptable under any circumstances to trip (dry-fire) the lock without the frizzen closed, because without the frizzen absorbing energy, the cock comes to an abrupt stop that can bend the top jaw screw and is hard on the lock overall.

Older barrels without a visible liner hole are not defective

Jim noted that in the past the company did not install touchhole liners, so customers should not be confused if a touchhole liner is missing or the barrel doesn't appear drilled and tapped for one on older kits, since the liner may simply be integrated differently or absent by original design.

Ramrod bow is normal and correctable by bending

Jim said a ramrod with a slight bow is not a defect; it can be straightened by bending it in the opposite direction, and rods do not need to be perfectly straight since a slight bow can help them spring and stay in the stock better.

Ramrod may not fit entry pipe or stock hole

Jim said ramrods vary slightly in size and sometimes need to be sanded or scraped down to fit the entry pipe and stock hole; this is a common and expected part of the build process.

Ramrod tip taper matches original historical work

Jim noted that tapering the ramrod down near the stock entry to match the ramrod tip is very common to see on original historical rifles, so this is authentic rather than a flaw.

Small hole between lock inlet and barrel channel is normal

Jim explained that a small hole visible between the lock inlet and the barrel channel is a normal part of the design providing clearance for the mainspring, is not a defect, and does not weaken the stock.

Small pits in cast brass are not defects to worry about

Jim explained that cast brass parts sometimes have small pits due to casting defects, many of which file out with light filing; he considers small pits not offensive and even sometimes helpful to an aged appearance, though the company will replace parts customers are unhappy with.

Stoning double-set triggers is not necessary

Jim said stoning the set triggers is not necessary because they are already finely finished; careful stoning might improve smoothness slightly, but improper stoning can cause more damage than benefit.

ALR as an information source with caveats

Jim referred to the American Longrifles (ALR) forum as a good source for information but advised taking online advice with a grain of salt.

Frank House consulted on lock design

Jim worked with Frank House on lock development, who offered critique and help based on his experience studying locks.

Kibler's attends the CLA show

Jim confirmed the company does attend the CLA (Contemporary Longrifle Association) show and said they may consider attending Dixon's in future years.

Patina solution demonstration video exists

Jim confirmed the company has a video demonstrating use of their patina solution available on their YouTube channel.

Recommendation to study original rifles and carving books

Jim recommended studying original rifle carving through books such as Rifles of Colonial America to learn appropriate carving styles.

Employee Lorie handles office and some shop work

Lorie had been working with the company about a month or two at the time of the shop update and handled a combination of office duties and some shop work, mostly office.

How the kit business started

Jim said starting the kit business "sort of just kinda happened naturally," driven by his idea that kits could be produced differently and better than existing offerings.

Jim has said a Brown Bess musket kit is uncertain

Jim has said a Brown Bess musket kit (tied to the 250th anniversary of the American Revolution) has crossed his mind but he does not see strong customer interest yet, and remains unsure how significant the anniversary will be.

Jim has said a Fowler kit is planned

Jim has said the company received overwhelming requests for a Fowler and expected the next new kit to be some kind of fowling piece, possibly English or American-made, with hopes to start work on it before the end of that year.

Jim has said a Hawken kit may happen

Jim has said a Hawken rifle kit would probably be good to offer at some point, citing a number of customer requests for it.

Jim has said a condensed basic tool list is planned

Jim has said he plans to create a condensed, basic tool list showing only what is truly needed to build a kit, possibly with a demonstration video assembling a kit with tools bought from a hardware store like Lowe's or Home Depot.

Jim has said a pistol kit is planned

Jim has said a pistol kit is likely next on the list after the Fowler, based on strong customer demand.

Jim has said an open house or appreciation day is being considered

Jim has said the company is considering hosting an open house, customer appreciation day, or shop visit day, potentially the following June to coincide with the CLA show weekend, possibly including food, a tent, and entertainment.

Jim has said future kits may closely copy original guns

Jim has said he would like to buy or borrow high quality original rifles to make closer copies for future kit styles, since staying true to originals gives a design a longer shelf life than incorporating his own stylistic choices.

Jim has said hiring a dedicated gunsmith is under consideration

Jim has said the company is considering hiring a skilled, energetic gunsmith to potentially do custom work in the shop, though he was unsure if this would happen.

Jim has said next kit direction leans toward a high-end trade gun

Jim has said the next kit is more likely to be a high-end English-style trade gun (rather than a plain Fowler), inspired by an original Wilson trade gun pictured in the book Guns of Sorts for Provincials, believed to belong to Colonial Williamsburg.

Jim has said the trade gun kit timeline is six to nine months out

Jim has said the planned trade gun kit would likely be introduced in the next six to nine months from the time of the shop tour and FAQ video.

Jim's black eye was from shingles, not Katherine

Jim clarified in a Q&A follow-up that a black eye seen in a prior video was caused by shingles and partly by an incident with his two-year-old son, not by any conflict with Katherine.

Jim's engineering background

Jim went to college for engineering and worked as an engineer for a number of years before building custom rifles full time.

Kibler's does not attend Dixon's Gunmakers Fair

Jim said the company does not plan to attend the Dixon's show, citing the time and cost of shows, though they may consider having representatives attend shows in the future.

Kit development timeline

Jim said developing a new kit can take about four, five, or six months of dedicated work, which is difficult while maintaining all other aspects of the business.

Meeting Katherine

Jim met Katherine, who has a strong business mind and became the other half of running the company; many customers know her from phone interactions.

New employee Marshall running the lathe

Marshall was the newest employee at the time of the shop update, having been with the company two days, and was shown running a lathe.

New employee Mason

Mason had been with the company about two years at the time of the shop update video and was praised for doing a great job, having appeared in another video working with wood.

Order volume increased during coronavirus period

Jim said orders picked up significantly during the coronavirus slowdown period, and the company was working to react and increase production output.

Prior custom rifle building experience before the business

Jim had significant experience building custom rifles before starting the kit business, which he said was important for knowing what a good rifle is and being able to design good kits.

Reasons for bringing barrel work in-house

Jim explained bringing barrel work in-house fits the company's preference to control as much of the manufacturing process as possible and allows for significant cost savings despite the expense of new machinery.

Timeline of flintlock rifle kits and components

At the time of the Q&A session, the company had been offering flintlock rifle kits and components for about the last four years.

Apply finish in thin coats

Jim said the key with finishes like Permalyn and Tried & True is to apply them in thin coats, letting the first coat soak in and keeping subsequent coats very thin as they build up.

Applying bone black in successive coats

Jim said bone black should be applied in successive coats since you won't get all the desired color in one application, sealing between coats of finish.

Baking soda and water solution for neutralizing iron nitrate

Jim said for those who prefer to neutralize iron nitrate, a concentrated baking soda and water solution brushed on and allowed to dry, then cleaned off, is the way to go.

Carving is the most significant way to enhance a Colonial rifle

Jim said the single most significant thing a builder can do to make a Colonial rifle kit stand out is appropriate, well-executed carving, even simple elements like lock moldings, a toe line, or carving around the comb.

High-solvent finishes can smear bone black

Jim warned that finishes with a lot of solvent can attack a previous coat of finish and smear bone black color, recommending a lower-solvent finish like Tried & True oil varnish instead.

Lye solution used to redden cherry wood

Jim said some builders use a lye solution on cherry wood to bring out and intensify its red color.

Permalyn Sealer as a finish

Jim said Permalyn Sealer is fairly easy to use as a finish and is not very different in application from Tried & True, the finish more commonly shown in their videos.

Permalyn Sealer is a thinner version of Permalyn finish

Jim explained Permalyn Sealer, despite being called a sealer, is appropriate to use through the entire finishing process because it is simply a thinner version of the company's standard Permalyn finish product.

Permalyn can be used with bone black carefully

Jim confirmed Permalyn can be used with bone black but has solvents, so it must be applied lightly without a lot of rubbing.

Potassium dichromate speeds cherry oxidation

Jim mentioned potassium dichromate as a chemical that speeds up the oxidation of cherry wood, mimicking sunlight's effect much faster, though he cautioned it is a dangerous chemical and the company has not tested it themselves.

Seal inlets after the first coat of finish

Jim said he likes to seal the inlets after the first coat of finish, and then usually assembles the gun and finishes it while assembled, to avoid building up finish inside the inlets that would prevent parts from fitting.

Staining with iron nitrate (aqua fortis) and aniline dyes

Jim said staining commonly uses iron nitrate, also called aqua fortis, or aniline dyes, and is most often applied to lighter woods such as maple.

Sunlight darkens cherry wood over time

Jim said exposure to sunlight brings out and darkens the color of cherry wood naturally over time as it patinates, and this natural method just requires waiting.

Sunlight speeds curing of Tried & True finish

Jim said drying a thin coat of Tried & True oil varnish in the sun can cure it in about half a day, compared to five or six days or more when drying indoors, because the sun's UV rays help the curing process, not just heat.

Thinner Permalyn coats produce a nicer final look

Jim said he and many other gunsmiths prefer using the thinner Permalyn Sealer version because it allows thinner coats spread more evenly, giving a nicer final appearance.

Tried & True oil varnish composition

Jim described Tried & True oil varnish as a linseed oil-based finish with rosin added, which is partially polymerized so it cures faster than plain linseed oil.

Two basic operations when finishing a gunstock

Jim explained that finishing a gunstock involves two basic operations: staining the wood for color, then applying a finish on top to seal it and add sheen.

Two recommended finishes: Permalyn Sealer and Tried & True

Jim said the company recommends two main finishes: Permalyn Sealer, which is durable, dries fast, and is easy to use, and Tried & True oil varnish, a more traditional linseed oil-based finish with rosin added.

Walnut, cherry, and ash staining practices

Jim said walnut or cherry are occasionally stained to adjust color, while ash is typically always stained, unlike woods that may be left more natural.

Beginners can start with any kit style

Jim said a complete beginner with zero kit-building experience can start with essentially any rifle style they want, whether Fowler, musket, or otherwise.

Company does not take custom rifle orders

Jim confirmed the business does not take orders for full custom rifles because custom work takes a long time and is less profitable, though the shop occasionally finishes a kit rifle in-house on a rare basis.

Kit difficulty depends on builder patience, not experience

Jim said that with patience, careful work, watching videos, and reading instructions, almost anybody can successfully build one of their kit rifles regardless of prior experience or technical skill.

Kits can be built on a kitchen table

Jim said some customers have successfully built kits on their kitchen table with good results, since the kits do not require extensive tooling or workspace.

Appeal of flintlocks as artistic and functional

Jim said flintlocks appealed to him because they are historical, functional, and artistic at the same time, calling that combination something that works well for him.

Family interest in antiques sparked interest

Jim's family was interested in antiques and lived in old historic houses, which contributed to his early interest in building long rifles.

Father's half-stock Ohio rifle

Jim's dad bought an old half-stock Ohio rifle made by a local gunsmith, which was an early influence on Jim's interest in long rifles.

Foxfire Series books as early influence

Jim's family had the Foxfire Series books at home, which included gun-making sections that Jim studied as a young person.

Grandparents' old CVA rifle kit

Jim's grandparents had an old CVA rifle kit that had belonged to his uncle, who never assembled it; Jim decided to put it together and shoot it.

Hershel House and Jim Chambers as influences

Jim named Hershel House and Jim Chambers among the builders whose work he studied in the Foxfire Series books as he was learning about gun making.

Jim's age when he got interested in building

Jim Kibler became interested in building long rifles at around age 15.

English Fowler lock and specifications under consideration

For a planned English Fowler kit, Jim said the company would probably use its existing round-faced lock, expected a bore of at least 20 gauge, and estimated a barrel length of up to 38 to 40 inches for an English-style gun or possibly longer for an American-made gun.

English walnut as optional upgrade for Fowler

Jim said English walnut would likely be offered as an optional wood upgrade for the planned English Fowler kit, though the company did not yet have a reliable source for it.

Interest in Bucks County or Lehigh Valley kit styles

Jim mentioned Bucks County and Lehigh Valley rifle styles as ones he personally likes and considers for potential future kits, while noting the company must choose designs with maximum sales potential.

Laid English lock with double-throated cock option

Jim said the company could offer a laid English lock with a double-throated cock as an option, describing it as not a big change to implement.

Late Ketland lock with waterproof pan timeline

Jim said a late Ketland lock with a waterproof pan was expected to be available in late summer or early fall, differing from the current Ketland lock in the plate and frizzen.

Mountain rifle barrel length is fixed at standard length

Jim said the company will not offer the mountain rifle with a shorter barrel (such as 40 or 42 inches instead of 46) because it is too hard to make adjustments to their standardized process.

Mountain rifle caliber limitations

Jim said the mountain rifle kit's largest available caliber is .45, in keeping with the slim, historically accurate proportions of most original mountain rifles, and that a .54 caliber version will not happen, though a .50 caliber could happen at some point.

Planned trade gun features a serpent side plate

Jim noted the reference trade gun has a serpent side plate, a decorative feature that had fallen out of favor on high-end guns roughly 75 to 100 years before this gun was made but remained popular among lower-grade guns and certain customers such as Native American buyers.

Planned trade gun has a three-stage octagon-to-round barrel

Jim described the planned trade gun's barrel as three-stage, going round from the muzzle to about the entry pipe, stepping up to a larger round second stage for a few inches, then transitioning to a final octagon stage with blended flats.

Planned trade gun lock will use modified round-face design

Jim said the planned trade gun kit would likely use their existing round-face lock architecture but with a simplified cock and frizzen made specifically to suit the trade gun.

Planned trade gun will use thin, light barrels

Jim said the planned trade gun kit would use thin barrels rather than heavy-walled ones, matching the light weight typical of original trade guns.

Planned trade gun wood options: English or black walnut

Jim said the planned trade gun would be most appropriate in walnut, ideally English walnut (though difficult to find), with black walnut as a great alternative choice, plus finishing supplies planned to help black walnut resemble English walnut.

Plans for at least one left-handed kit

Jim has said the company will do at least one left-handed rifle kit, possibly a style in between a mountain rifle and a colonial rifle with a more Germanic-style lock.

Reason for delay on left-handed kits

Jim explained the company is not trying to neglect left-handed customers but has focused initial efforts on products that give the quickest return for their effort.

Kits always include the lock area inletted

The company does not offer kits without the lock area inletted; this remains standard on all kits.

No custom modifications to standard kits

Jim explained the company is set up for production work and cannot accommodate custom requests, such as building a true poor-boy mountain rifle without a butt plate, side plate, or inletted ramrod thimble, because customizations create organizational and fixturing problems.

Seconds or discounted colonial kits sometimes available

The company sometimes has seconds or discounted colonial kits available, which may have a dark streak, bark inclusion, or a small machining problem like chips; customers should check in to see current availability.

Difficulty making a lower-priced kit around $750

Jim said the company would like to offer a cheaper rifle or smoothbore around $750 but doubts it is achievable without huge sacrifices in quality, given their high standards, especially with locks included.

Carbon steel liners erode faster than stainless

Jim said carbon steel touchhole liners last much less time than stainless steel due to erosion from the powder charge and hot gases forced through the hole, and recommends stainless steel unless the customer is particular about matching the barrel's appearance.

Carving cast considered more useful than a book alone

Jim said the physical carving cast is arguably more important than the carving book because it lets a builder see the actual three-dimensional carving, which is harder to understand from a book image alone.

Carving cast made from a master carving mold

The introductory carving cast is made by carving a master, creating a mold from it, then pouring plastic resin into the mold and staining it to represent the look of actual carving.

Company offers an introductory carving kit

The company offers a small introductory carving kit that provides steps and a cast example of carving to help builders learn.

Example Colonial rifle stocked in walnut

Jim showed a Colonial rifle kit he assembled himself, stocked in walnut, with carving and finishing done by his friend Ian.

How to identify if a touchhole liner is installed

Jim said to look for a hole through the side of the barrel about 1/16 inch or slightly bigger; if present, a touchhole liner is installed, which will be true for all Green Mountain barrels with the stainless steel liner.

Identifying a stainless steel touchhole liner by color

Jim said stainless steel touchhole liners can be identified by their slightly different color compared to the surrounding barrel steel, with a small hole visible in the center.

Kibler's iron nitrate product is depleted of acid

Jim explained that the company's iron nitrate product is depleted of acid as much as possible and further acid is driven off during heating, which is why he has not seen a need to neutralize it, unlike some other makers' more acidic products.

Locks supplied in bead-blasted finish only

Kibler locks are supplied in a bead-blasted finish; the company does not offer them pre-polished or pre-engraved because handwork significantly slows production.

Modern manufacturing techniques used for historical recreations

Jim confirmed the company uses modern manufacturing techniques (implying things like 3D scanning of originals) to recreate 18th and 19th century designs without sacrificing quality.

Ramrod supplier changed to reduce reject rate

Jim said the company changed ramrod suppliers and now has basically a zero reject rate on the rods, reflecting improved quality control.

Wood selection is a key part of the business

Jim said selecting good quality wood with the right characteristics is an important part of the company's process.

Shop is a production facility, not a retail storefront

Jim explained the shop is a working production environment, not a retail store, so the company generally discourages customers from visiting to pick up products because it disrupts work.

Engraving on long rifles is generally simple

Jim noted that historical engraving on long rifles is generally not too complex, so beginners can learn with practice.

Full tool list is extensive but not all required

Jim explained the company's published tool list reflects all the tools he personally uses and has available, but builders do not need every tool on that list to successfully build a kit.

Making a thin screwdriver for narrow lock screws

Jim suggested options for a narrow lock screwdriver: use a knife file to open the slot slightly, find a very narrow screwdriver, or grind down a regular screwdriver on a belt sander or grinder to fit the slot.

Practicing engraving on scrap material

Jim recommended practicing engraving on scrap material before working on an actual rifle component.

Punch material and fit for tumbler removal

Jim said a punch for driving out the tumbler can be made of brass or mild steel, is easy to make, and should be a square punch fitted to the size of the hole.

Recommended starter chisels

Jim recommended a 1/4-inch chisel and an 1/8-inch chisel as the first chisels to buy for building a kit, noting that Kibler kits don't require many tools.

Sharpening a scraper technique

Jim described sharpening a scraper by first filing and stoning a square corner, then rolling over a burr using a hardened steel burnisher.

Tool quality guidance for chisels

Jim said chisels do not have to be the highest quality; a decent quality tool works fine, with the main tradeoff of lower-cost tools being more frequent sharpening.

Traditional engraving method using a graver

Jim described the traditional metal engraving method as using a chisel or graver, either tapped with a hammer or pushed by hand to remove a sliver of material and create a shadow or contrast line.

Can you do blanks for standard center fires?

No, we only work with antique styles.

What recoil should I expect from a .45 black powder rifle?

Very little. Black powder recoil in a .45 is extremely mild, much less than most modern centerfire rifles. Even .54 and .58 are very manageable due to slow-burning powder and rifle weight. This is a common concern from new shooters that goes away after the first shot.

What is the overall length of the Woodsrunner ?

About 55".

If one were to sand/burnish the stock after applying the heat gun, would it affect the lighter stained areas of the stock and increase the dark/light contrast?

It's the opposite. It seals off the grain and you don't have as much variation in the penetration of the oil. It's best to do after getting a good coat of oil.

When should I install the barrel pins?

You can pin the barrel about any time after fitting it in place. It's really not too critical, there's no strict sequence requirement.

Which style the colonial or woods runner, would be the most similar to something a farmer or plantation owner would have had access to around the time of the Revolution? Mainly the Charlotte/Camden/PeeDee area of boarder region of the Carolinas.

Either colonial or woodsrunner would be believable.

Do you ever run classes for customers who have purchased your Long Gun Flintlock kits?

We don't currently, but we are aware of other classes for assembly. Southern Ohio Artisan Workshops is a great one.

Wouldn't it be easier for you to drill the partsin house versus spending money on extra parts?

The Woodsrunner has all parts drilled and doesn't come with the drill kit. It is made on a different machine that allows it to be more precise

How often do you need to do a complete disassembly of a lock

Never unless it gets rusty or something.

You showed how it looks with stain over the iron nitrate. Would nitrate over the stain come out any different?

Due to the heat gun step, the iron nitrate should be done first.

Are there any parts of the lock that would require polishing or the trigger assembly?

No nothing requires polishing.

Do you offer black walnut?

Yes, all of our kits come in black walnut as an option.

May I suggest oak leaves and acorns as a carving motif?

Sorry, no!!

Are the flats on the barrels you make plained or milled?

They are milled.

Will you be able to fire steel shot from the fowler for waterfowl hunting?

I don't think it will be suited for it. Lead shot is recommended as steel is much harder on barrels

Have you ever tried staining with homemade tobacco stain? (Ammonia & tobacco)

No I have never tried it.

Are the barrels ready for bluing or do they need draw filed?

They will need a little bit of draw filing--probably not more than 5 minutes or so.

How do you get the bae metal patina look on the barrel?

Mostly Jax black.

What is the length of pull on the Woodsrunner?

13 7/16".

The tumbler broke when I was disassembling the lock.

This most likely broke or cracked when knocking out the tumbler from the cock. If the tumbler arms catch on anything during removal, this is what will happen. Best solution is to send the lock back, we'll put in a new tumbler and make sure everything is perfect at no charge.

Why do you only make for muzzle loaders? Is this process precise enough to make barrels for centre-fires or rim-fires?

We only make what we know.

What is your opinion on sanding versus scraping only in regards to the final appearance/finish?

It's a matter of personal preference. Sanding is easier to get a nice finish and scraping can be a little trickier but both are nice

Can we get a recipe of colors.

Maybe in the future, I kind of wing it because every piece of wood is a little different.

Why have the ramrod tip going into the rifle?

It's how they were done traditionally.

Can customers buy individual parts?

You can purchase individual parts. Contact info@kiblerslongrifles.com or 330-551-5844.

Is bluing the barrels recommended

It is typically not recommended and uneven heat can cause the barrel to warp

What Oil to use over iron nitrate

Kibler Sealer/Finish

Could I use iron nitrate on my tiger maple table?

Yes, that would look good.

What kind of scraper does Jim use?

Card scraper that we sell on our website.

Can you guys do a video of using tannic acid and iron nitrate together?

We have a video from a few years back.

Colonial, Fowler, and Woodsrunner Hardware

All brass, besides the lock, barrel, trigger and triggerplate

Why is the wood left bare under the lock plate & barrel?

It wasn't stained traditionally and it doesn't need stained.

Flint Size for the SMR

3/4" x 7/8"

Why are you sending them partially installed already?

The woodsrunner is an "easier" kit for customers to assemble. Partially installing the tricky parts helps.

My lock's hammer or cock seems to be contacting the lock plate, leaving marks.

The cock coming to rest by hitting the plate is normal and by design. However, deep gouging or the tumbler scratching the plate in a way that interferes with rotation should be addressed. Send the lock back and we will fix it right.

How many hours does it take to machine each stock?

It's a couple hours of machine time.

Which stock finish should I use, Permalyn, Tried and True, or other?

Both work well. If using Permalyn, use the sealer. Tried and True is more traditional but requires longer dry time between coats (sometimes 24-48 hours). The most important rule with any oil finish: thin coats, full cure between each coat, and 0000 steel wool rub-out between coats.

What caliber should I pick for hunting?

Small game (squirrel, rabbit): .32 or .36. Deer: .40 or .45 is plenty, .50 also excellent. Bear or large Western game: .50, .54, or .58. Regional context matters, a .45 is standard for deer in most of the country but the West often calls for more.

Are the ramrod tubes pinned and the barrel tabs for the woodsrunner already installed and drilled on the kits?

Yes, everything is drilled for the Woodsrunner.

How does your brass compare to cartridge brass?

The chemistry is slightly different but it's in the ballpark.

Is there color added to iron nitrate?

No.

Where did you purchase your magnifiers?

We often have some in stock, but Amazon is good as well

There is a hole or void in the stock near the lock area.

Not a defect. The through-inlet in the lock area is intentional and present on every stock. It is seen on most original period rifles. Carry on.

Fowler barrel wall thickness

20 ga wall thickness: 0.105" at muzzle 16 ga wall thickness 0.0815" at muzzle

What size flint does the Woodsrunner use?

7/8" x 1" flint.

What is a barn gun

A barn gun as described in the video is a plain, barebones gun without typical features like a butt plate, entry pipe, nose cap, or side plate (30:37-30:46). These guns, sometimes called "schimmels" or "poor boys," were made during the period in a simpler style (30:48-30:54). The goal of creating a barn gun kit is to offer a lower-priced option (31:08-31:18) to introduce more people to traditional black powder (31:20-31:23). The barn gun kit will be available in 32 through 50 caliber (32:23-32:25), and there are plans for flint and percussion versions, as well as right- and left-handed options

Is there a way to lighten the tone if the reddish appearance without restripping it?

You could use dye stain that would tone the red. Maybe something with a deep brown.

Does the constant heating and reheating of the brazing process damage the barrel in anyway?

We don't braze our barrels.

The guard won't fit into the stock, it looks impossible.

Insert the front of the guard fully first, then tap the rear into place. If you try to seat the back first, it will appear impossible. Front first and the back taps in perfectly. This is how it's designed.

Is the square flat edge at the bottom of the stock traditional or is this left for finishing?

It's traditional to be flat. If you are trying to say shape it like a fowler buttplate, it's not reasonable to do with the rifle guard.

Have you ever considered making a youth rifle kit?

Possibly down the road, but we have no plans at this time

The ramrod won't reach the bottom when in the under-barrel channel.

This is usually a line-of-sight issue, not a length problem. Lay the ramrod alongside the barrel to compare lengths. Also check for obstructions in the channel by holding a light at the end. Don't cut the rod until you've confirmed the actual barrel depth.

My stock finish oil has a solid skin on top. Is it ruined?

No. Puncture through the skin layer and use the oil underneath, it's still good. To prevent this: drop marbles into the can to raise the oil level, or use Bloxygen (inert gas spray) to fill the headspace. All oil finishes will eventually skin over from air exposure.

What is the rate of twist on the 36 and 45 cal. barrels?

The twist on the 36 cal. is 1 in 48 and for the 45 it is 1 in 70.

I used iron nitrate on the stock and now there's light surface rust on the metal parts. What happened?

The iron nitrate likely got into the inlets. If you keep it off the inlets and recessed areas, there's no rust problem, no neutralization needed. The instructions say to neutralize, but many experienced builders skip this when the solution stays on exposed surfaces only.

Is there a reason you chose to go with a single trigger on this one a opposed to a double set trigger?

That is what it had originally.

What time period does the new fowler most closely represent?

1770s, possibly late 1760s.

What vise does Jim use?

A custom-made vise that is not commercially available. We do sell a vise that is great for a hobbyist available on our website

Could you use 2" planks of cured walnut?

It would need to be slightly thicker than 2".

SMR and Hawken Hardware

All steel

Do I need a nose cap or toe plate on the SMR stock?

No, don't worry about either a nose cap or toe plate. The gun will be strong and work just fine without them. The kits are designed and built so the stock is fully functional as delivered. A custom cap can be made if desired, but it requires a groove and specific shaping that doesn't fit standard aftermarket caps.

Is there color in permalyn?

Jim might have added some dye to the Permalyn.

Is it necessary to use a wood filler when staining curly maple with aqua fortis?

I don't believe it is necessary to use any kind of wood filler with the maple. As you very gradually build up many coats of the finish, the small grain will even out and fill in.

Do you plan on the fowler being a Woodsrunner style kit or more traditional, more fitting required like the other kits?

It will be slightly more difficult than the woodsrunner most likely but easier than colonial and southern mountain rifle.

The Jax Black I received says 'for brass', did I get the wrong product?

No, that is the correct product. The label says brass but we use it on iron and steel. Jax Brown is for brass hardware.

A ramrod pipe screw hole cracked or blew out of the wood.

Work wood glue into the crack and clamp. Run a 1/16" drill through the hole again after it dries. A small piece of paper pushed into the crack helps get glue deeper. Common on figured wood, not a major issue.

How do you prevent an unfinished barrel from rusting?

Waxing it will help, several coats of a good paste wax like Johnson’s. Will need to reapply periodically.

Can you diluent iron nitrate or aqua fortis?

Yes, you can dilute it with water to get a lighter result.

What lock will be used for the fowler?

Our Round Faced English Lock

My sear broke. Do I need to replace the tumbler too?

Inspect the half- and full-cock notches on the tumbler for damage. If the notches look intact, you may only need a new sear. When in doubt, replacing both is safer. Contact the office and we can send parts or accept the lock for repair.

Why not use a Dremel tool?

Not enough control or precision with a Dremel.

Do you brown or blue the lock?

You could but we prefer to leave the lock in the white or use Jax Black.

The barrel keeps crawling forward when I tighten the tang screw.

Make sure there is clearance on any areas that might be pushing the barrel forward as the bolt is tightened. The end of the tang is one example. Also check that the tang bolt head isn't pushing on the front of the counterbore in the tang as it tightens, that can drive the barrel forward. If it is contacting the counterbore, contact us and we can get it fixed.

Flint Size for Colonial, Woodsrunner, and Fowler

7/8" x 1"

Would there be any problems with a kit being stored for a bit until I get to it?

It should be fine if you just store it in your house. If you want to be extra careful, you could fit the barrel in place. This only takes a few minutes and would help make sure the forestock doesn't change shape or bow. It's not likely to happen, but this is extra insurance.

What about the blueing of the barrel?

We recommend Jax Black for a nice patina on the barrel. We don't blue in our shop, but I'm sure you could find some videos online.

Is a mainspring vise required for all locks for disassembly?

Yes, a mainspring is needed for all locks https://kiblerslongrifles.com/products/mainspring-vise?_pos=1&_psq=mainsprin&_ss=e&_v=1.0

How do you keep Powder Post Beetles on of your maple?

We use our wood fast enough that we usually don't have that issue.

Why do you sand the brass?

Metal needs prepared for finishing with files and sandpaper.

Is it going to be a hanging trigger? If yes, will the geometry be figured so it doesn’t have a really heavy pull?

It will be a pin through the stock and it will have a good pull.

Are the barrels cast with the opening or do you drill it out of hardened steel?

We purchase the barrels drilled and we machine the outside.

Might there be a relief carving available with the upcoming Fowler

Yes, it will have relief carving.

Are barrels stainless or carbon steel?

Barrels are carbon steel.

Why is the nosecap left on and other parts taken off?

In order to properly finish the nosecap, its best to leave it on. It is peened attached to the stock.

What much is a woods runner in ash?

We don't have any ash right now, but we have nice maple and woods runners. They start at $1,200.

If I wanted a lighter color, would a clear oil like linseed instead of the permalyn help in that regard?

I'm not sure, but hardware store linseed oil is a bad finish and we don't recommend it. Tried and true is high quality linseed oil and is partially polymerized to help it dry as well as added rosin. Either way, I don't anticipate a big color difference.

What CAD software do you use in design and surface modelling?

For the fowler we used fusion 360, but we also use Mastercam in the shop for other things.

I accidentally dry-fired the lock without a flint, did I damage anything?

Never snap a flintlock without a flint and the frizzen closed. This puts all the impact energy directly on the cock and plate with no resistance and can cause deformation. If this happened, send the lock back and we'll inspect and repair at no charge.

What type of stock and finish do you recommend for walnut?

Walnut looks really nice on the mountain rifle. I like to finish it with a product we sell called Permalyn Sealer. It has a nice look, but is also very durable. Usually 5-6 very thin coats works well.

Have you ever made a stock out of cotonwood, hackberry, or American elm?

No we haven't used any of these.

The set trigger is unreliable, it sometimes engages, sometimes doesn't.

Try backing off the adjustment screw first. If that doesn't resolve it, send the trigger back, we'll send a return label, fix it quickly, and return it to you free of charge.

Can I store a kit for several months before building?

Yes, store indoors at normal room temperature. If you want to be extra careful, fit the barrel into the stock before storing. This only takes a few minutes and prevents the forestock channel from shifting.

Where can I purchase the spring compressors you showed?

Robert Boggs sells high quality but expensive ones. Track of the wolf sells some as well.

With the trigger pin in wood instead of metal, is there any chance of wallowing out the pin hole with continues use? Can you use a trigger that is connected to the trigger plate?

The pin doesn't move in the wood, the pin is fixed so it won't wallow out with use. This is a time tested, excellent, traditional trigger assembly method. There is no need to use a trigger connected to the trigger plate.

Should I brown the lock when browning the barrel?

Yes, brown the lock if you're browning the barrel. Disassemble the lock first. Keep the browning to the surfaces that show once the lock is installed; don't brown the internals or the inside of the plate.

How do I apply the metal browning / iron staining finish?

Jim uses a tannic acid process. The full write-up is at jimkibler.net/blog/archives/10-2014. Iron nitrate crystals are used in this process. The Jax Black product labeled 'for brass' is what is used on iron, the label is misleading, it works the same on iron/steel. Jax Brown is for actual brass hardware.

What oil did you use in the Shawshank woodshop video?

Iron nitrate stain was applied (not an oil) which is then heated to change color. Then the oil was Tried and True varnish oil.

The nose cap screw won't start, the threaded hole seems misaligned.

Intentional. The tapped hole is offset slightly forward so that as the screw tightens, it pulls the cap rearward into position. Push down on the screw with the driver and tighten, it will start with little trouble.

Are you going to supply a drawing of possible carvings and moldings used on the originals?

Maybe down the road, but not currently.

What is your opinion of tru oil as a finishing coat?

I've not used it. Some people use it and like it.

What weight is the trigger pull?

2-3 pounds.

Can you go from 45 to 50 to 54 cal.?

Yes, the barrels are interchangeable.

What barrel length will be available for the fowler?

The barrel length will be 44" and there will not be any other length options.

The underlugs on the barrel don't appear to be fitted. Do I need to file them?

Correct, they are deliberately not pre-fitted. There is a lead (chamfer) on one side of the underlug that lets it start into the dovetail. Once started, tap into place with generally zero filing needed.

What patch material and thickness should I use?

Ticking (pillow ticking, blue or red), #40 cotton drill, and similar woven cottons all work well. The patch should fit snugly with felt resistance when seating the ball. Approximate starting thicknesses: .015" for .40-.45 cal, .018-.022" for .50-.58 cal.

Should I shoot conicals in a Kibler barrel?

Not recommended. Kibler barrels are optimized for patched round ball. The rifling twist rate is such that you'll get much better accuracy with a round ball. If you want to shoot conicals, a .45 caliber would be a better choice than smaller calibers, but round ball is strongly preferred.

Can we get an update on the fowler?

We are getting close to testing the program and running samples.

Does the lock assembly come in the kit or is it a separate purchase?

It ships with the kit, but is a separate transaction for purchase.

Is the barrel ruined if you drill through into the tube?

Yes, it would be. We drill through the underlies.

Will there be a cross pin to hold the buttplate tang on the fowler?

Yes.

Is the sanding process the same for Walnut stocks?

The sanding the process is the same for all different woods.

Colonial kit question, your barrels have a 1:72 twist rate, would that be optimal for shooting something like a minie ball in addition to the recommended patch round balls?

Our barrels are designed to shoot round balls well. With the 1:70 twist rate, I wouldn't expect them to shoot minie balls very well.

Are you going to carve the lock and will you include a cap lock in the future?

The locks will come uncarved. We may have a cap lock in the future

What powder charge should I use? I've been shooting 30 grains and getting misfires.

30 grains is too light for reliable ignition in most calibers. For .45 or .50 caliber, 60-90 grains of FFg black powder is a typical starting range. Swiss and Schuetzen are preferred brands. Work up from 60 grains and find what groups well. Underpowered loads cause delayed ignition, poor accuracy, and increased fouling.

When heating the Iron Nitrate, how hot does the wood's surface need to be?

I'm not sure of the exact temperature, but you will see the color change. Any heat gun should get hot enough.

What ball diameter should I use in a .40 caliber rifle?

A .395 ball is the right choice for a .40 caliber.

I accidentally over-cut the stock when fitting the trigger guard. Can it be repaired?

Yes. Cut clean edges in the overcut area and glue in a wood patch. If done well, it will not be noticeable when finished. We can also send a small piece of matching stock wood for the patch, just ask.

What do you use to apply iron nitrate?

Iron nitrate can be applied a variety of ways, but I like to use scotch brite. You can purchase iron nitrate on our website.

If you were looking for a higher gloss on the stock, would you keep applying the oil?

Yes, more thin coats would make a higher gloss. Make sure they are thin and dry before next coat.

The trigger won't move freely, it feels stiff or sticky.

The trigger should flop back and forth freely with gravity. Check for wood rubbing against the side of the trigger. If there is contact, relieve a small amount of wood. Polish the trigger pin by spinning it in a drill with fine sandpaper. Also ensure there is at least a small amount of take-up (play) at full-cock, this lets the sear seat fully in the notch.

Are you planning on engraving metal pieces as well?

Maybe at some point.

Should I disassemble the lock before applying browning or darkening solution?

Yes, it is much better to disassemble the lock. You don't want to darken the internals or the inside of the plate. With a mainspring vise it's not hard to take apart. If you proceed without disassembling, use swabs carefully on exposed surfaces only, keep solution off the internals, and apply plenty of oil afterward. Track of the Wolf sells a mainspring vise that works well.

Do you plan on selling parts like the butt plate and trigger guard for the fowler?

Yes we will sell hardware separately.

What power are Jim's optivisors?

2.5 works good for my eyes.

Has anyone seen or done a two tone finish on a carved stock like these, perhaps a lighter stain or color to accent the carving?

I've seen that on original work, it's kind of rare. It could look good as long it's not too drastic.

What will the wood options be for the fowler?

We recommend the walnut as it is traditional, but we will also offer cherry and maple for those that have their hearts set on it

What is the most period-correct way to finish a cherry stock?

Cherry was probably seldom stained in the period, it was just finished with an oil. Over time cherry darkens a lot with exposure to sunlight. Just sitting the finished rifle in the sun will help it develop a beautiful color. If you want to stain it today, an aniline dye is a good choice (TransTint, Laurel Mountain Forge stains, etc.).

What does twist rate mean for round ball accuracy?

Slower twist rates are better for patched round balls. 1:48 is versatile. 1:56 to 1:70 is preferred for pure round ball, less spin means less fouling and better long-range accuracy. All Kibler barrels shoot patched round ball well regardless of twist. The Colonial .54 and .58 use 1:70.

What do you use to cut pins off to get a clean cut and don't screw up the wood?

Side cutters and then file the pin head to take down the sharp edges.

What size flint does the SMR use?

3/4" x 7/8" flint.

I'm trying to figure out how to use a flintlock in the rain. Not much fair weather hunting in the PNW. Any suggestions?

Some people have it under their coat or arm. A cows knee is a piece of leather shaped to keep the water off. Some people put some great around the edge of the pan to make it more waterproof.

Is there any possibility of a left handed kit in the future?

Possibly years down the road.

Is there any historical precedent for a natural, blond finish, with just the catalyzed linseed oil (or tung oil) over the maple?

There were probably some that were made very light. There aren't many examples of guns with the original finish left or for which the years haven't changed it so it's hard to know for sure.

Should one scrape before the carving? How do you scrape inside curves, post-carving?

You would scrape before carving and you can also scrape with chisels on end for inside curves.

What are your thoughts on bedding the Barrel/action to better stabilize expansion and contraction effects on wood?

I don't think there is any need or real benefits.

Is it possible to add a brass patch box on my colonial kit that I ordered with a wooden patch box?

Yes, you could add a brass box at a later time. This was sometimes done in the original period. The easiest way would be to change out the buttplate, but you could also solder in a patch. This all would work well.

The fly is missing from my lock and the hammer won't drop past half-cock.

The fly is most likely lost during disassembly, it is a tiny part and easily missed. We can send a replacement tumbler and sear, or you can send the lock back and we'll fix it at no charge. Sending the lock back is the best solution.

When rubbing the stock down with the Scotch Bright pad, how does that affect relief carving? Is the raised carving degraded in any way?

Very minor, it might soften it a tiny bit which can actually be a good thing.

What kind of wood was used for the stock in your Shawshank woodshop video?

Extra fancy maple.

The key is loose in the barrel on my Hawken.

This was a known issue on early Hawken production (slot in underlug slightly too far from key opening). We have corrected this. Contact Bree at 330-551-5844 and we will send a modified underlug at no charge.

Are the barrels swamped?

Yes, we use swamped barrels on all of our kits. These create a well balanced and very pleasing rifle.

Are there any plans for a kit that is a little shorter overall?

The Woodsrunner is 54".

Where can I buy the drill bit kit?

It's not on the website yet but you can email info@kiblerslongrifles.com

What species of wood do you use for the ramrod?

Hickory.

What is the best way to raise the grain before finishing?

Apply a small amount of water to the stock, let dry completely, then sand lightly with 220+ grit. Repeat 2-3 times. This raises then knocks down fibers so the final surface is open and takes finish evenly. Do not skip this on figured maple.

What ball and patch should I use in a .58 caliber Colonial?

A .570 ball with patches around .018-.020" thick works well. You can also use a .575 ball with patching around .015" thick. A patch as thin as .010" is pretty thin and not ideal.

How tight/loose should the trigger be on the pin for the woodsrunner?

The trigger should move freely and flop back and forth with gravity. Check for wood rubbing on the side of the trigger and then polish the trigger pin a bit by spinning in a drill and holding very fine sandpaper against it (400-600 grit). This should fix you up.

Any tips for installing the pins that hold the ramrod pipes in place?

Clamp the pipe down snugly in its inlet, being careful not to squeeze hard enough to bend it, then put a little wax such as beeswax on the pin so it slides through the hole more easily. Use a pin with a rounded end so it does not catch and break out the wood on the far side.

Any tips for planning a carving design before cutting?

Work out the drawing carefully, looking for smooth lines and curves without elbows or kinks. It helps to reference original period work rather than inventing a design, since original designs tend to look better than a new design.

Are Kibler's stocks fully finished and ready to use straight from the machine?

No. Stocks are well machined but still go through a checking and cleanup process before shipping, and builders should still expect to do some hand sanding themselves, particularly near tool marks by the butt plate on both sides of the stock, before staining and finishing.

Can American black walnut be made to look more like the English walnut used on original guns?

Yes. Since American black walnut can have larger pores and a more purplish, chocolatey brown color than English walnut, builders can use a grain filler to close up the pores and use dye stains, such as a strong yellow wash coat, to counteract the purple tone and shift the color toward amber or red.

Can I leave the barrel finish as draw filed, or do I need to polish it further?

You can finish a barrel directly on the draw filed surface with nothing wrong with it, since it is historically appropriate and can look good browned, blued, or aged. If you want it a little finer, you can wrap abrasive paper around the file or a block and work down the flats, though getting a slight polish over the draw file marks without removing them entirely is also a good look seen on original work.

Can I use a power buffer to polish the brass hardware on my kit?

No, using power equipment like a buffer to polish hardware is not recommended. It will not follow the shape of the part and tends to round off edges, giving a bad result.

Can a flat file be used on a round barrel?

Yes. A flat file works fine on a round barrel section for draw filing. The shape of the file does not need to match the shape of the metal part being worked.

Can cold weather affect applying stock finish or browning solutions?

Cold weather has not caused known problems with applying liquid stock finishes or browning solutions, so there is no need to wait for warmer weather before starting that work.

Can dye stains be used to adjust the color after iron nitrate?

Yes. Aniline dye stains, whether alcohol, water, or oil soluble, can be applied over or mixed with the finish on top of aqua fortis to shift the color. The downside is that aniline dyes are not as colorfast or durable as iron nitrate and can fade or wash out over time, and their color can look different from the aqua fortis base if not used carefully.

Can iron nitrate stain be applied with Scotch-Brite instead of a rag?

Yes. Scotch-Brite, a synthetic steel wool pad, can be used to apply the stain and lightly burnish the stock at the same time, which tends to produce a smoother finish.

Can leftover dark stain be intentionally kept in some areas of a stock?

Yes. Some darker residue can be left in place when rubbing back the finish to simulate a bit of patina on the stock.

Can lye stain be used to darken cherry wood on a build?

Jim has not used lye stain himself, but customers have reported it gives a deep, dark, rich, redder color on cherry. Some say oven cleaner, which is basically lye, works, while others prefer straight lye such as Red Devil lye, but Jim has no firsthand experience to confirm which works better.

Can lye stain be used to enhance the color of cherry wood?

Jim has not personally used lye stain on cherry, but customers have used it and achieved a deep, rich color. It gives a distinctly redder tone than other stains.

Can paper cartridges be used in a flintlock?

Paper cartridges pierced through the touch hole could work in a flintlock, but it is not the standard loading procedure, so it is better to stick with standard loading methods.

Can tannic acid be combined with iron nitrate stain?

Yes, tannic acid can be used along with iron nitrate stain and enhances the wood's figure, but at the cost of more work and a cooler overall color that sometimes needs to be warmed back up with dye stains. For those new to finishing, using iron nitrate alone is usually recommended.

Can the color of iron nitrate stain be adjusted or tailored?

Not very much. Iron nitrate gives a great, durable stain, but it is not highly adjustable, so the final color will depend on the wood rather than a specific shade a builder has in mind. Every piece of wood finishes a bit differently.

Can the pores in an ash stock be darkened for a striking look?

Since ash is a ring porous wood with more open pores in certain grain bands, those pores can be selectively darkened for effect. One approach is to let a sealer coat dry first, then apply black spray paint and work it back off the surface so the color stays down in the pores; bone black can also be worked into the pores for a similar effect.

Can you clean a flintlock's barrel while leaving the barrel pins in place?

The barrel can be cleaned with the pins left in place; most people leave the barrel in the stock rather than removing it. If the barrel is removed for cleaning, care should be taken not to damage the pins, and the pin ends should be kept rounded.

Can you heat a frizzen to change its color?

No, a frizzen should not be heated to change its color because heating it changes its hardness and keeps it from working as well. The frizzen can still take browning fine, or it can be polished and colored by rusting it heavily and then scrubbing off the rust to create some pitting, which produces an aged look.

Do I need extra wood left on my stock to be able to carve it?

No, you should not leave extra wood for carving, with the exception of perhaps a small amount above the buttplate surface. There is a misconception that carving requires extra wood on the stock, but that is oftentimes not the case, aside from some rare designs that do require more wood.

Do I need to neutralize iron nitrate stain after applying it?

Jim does not neutralize the iron nitrate he uses and has not seen a darkening problem over time, as long as it is kept out of the inlets and the product is heated well during use, which drives off residual acid. Some experienced builders do prefer to neutralize with a baking soda and water solution, and either approach can work, but this only applies to the product Kibler's makes and sells.

Do I need to remove the barrel every time I clean my fowler or Southern Mountain rifle?

Removing the barrel is not necessary every time for routine cleaning of the fowler or Southern Mountain rifle.

Do I need to remove the barrel to clean my fowler?

No, you do not need to remove the barrel every time. Plug the touch hole with a toothpick, pour cold water down the barrel, put your thumb over the muzzle, and slosh it around, letting it sit five to ten minutes before dumping the water and running cleaning patches. For a more thorough cleaning, the barrel can occasionally be pulled and flushed with a bucket of water and a jag.

Do I need to remove wood to assemble the Woodsrunner kit?

The goal for the Woodsrunner is that no wood removal, meaning no chisel or knife work, is necessary to get a first fit on the parts, made possible by the precision of the machining used on the barrel, lock, and stock inlets.

Do Kibler's kit parts require any fitting, or do they drop right in?

Parts are made very close, but that does not mean there is zero fitting required. Kibler's intentionally errs on the side of tighter tolerances rather than looser ones, because loose tolerances would risk visible gaps. Fitting needed can range from essentially nothing to a bit more work, due to normal variation in the machining process and because humidity differences between the shop and a builder's home climate can affect how wood parts fit.

Do both sides of a carved rifle stock need to match exactly?

The carving should be kept similar in shape on both sides but does not need to match exactly, since both sides of a stock are never seen at the same time and small deviations generally are not noticeable.

Do the ram rod pipes need fitting before installing the pins?

Usually little to no fitting is needed for the ram rod pipes, but it is important to make sure they are fully seated and free of burrs or wood debris before installing the retaining pin, and the pin should slip in without excessive force to avoid cracking the stock.

Do you need a drill to assemble the Woodsrunner or Fowler kit?

No drilling is required to assemble the Woodsrunner or Fowler kits because all the pin holes are already taken care of, so a drill can be left out of the tool list for those two kits.

Do you need to fit the barrel into the stock on a Southern Mountain Rifle kit?

The barrel is checked to fit the barrel channel before the stock ever leaves Kibler's, so no fitting is typically needed. Because the tangs and the stock inlet are both CNC machined, the barrel usually goes into the stock with little to no work required.

Do you need to soften the edges of the barrel flats after draw filing?

After draw filing the flats, it helps to run the file down the corners to soften the sharp edge slightly. Some original barrels have very sharp corners, but a slightly broken or softened edge is more common and is fine to do, including at the muzzle where a light chamfer can be added.

Do you recommend staining walnut stocks?

Walnut is often left unstained since its natural color varies quite a bit, from very nice to less appealing. Aniline dyes can be used to adjust the color if a particular piece of walnut needs it.

Does Kibler's check the barrel fit before a stock ships?

Yes. As part of preparing a stock for shipping, Kibler's test fits the barrel in the inlet and adjusts the fit if needed, since getting a barrel to fit well can be tricky for customers to do themselves.

Does curly maple require more allowance for wood movement than straight grain wood on a rifle stock?

Yes. Curly wood creates a cross grain situation that leads to noticeably more expansion and contraction than straight grain wood. Straight grain wood, such as plain walnut or cherry, is much less likely to show movement problems.

Does it matter if grain-raising water gets into the inlets on a stock?

It's not something to worry about. You want the water on the visible show surfaces, but if some gets into the inlets that's fine too. In theory it could slightly swell the inlets, but that outcome is unlikely.

Does putting on a second coat of iron nitrate on ash change the color much?

A second coat will deepen and enrich the color somewhat, but the change is not dramatic. It also helps even out any spots that were missed on the first coat.

Does sunlight help cure an oil finish faster?

Yes, putting a freshly oiled stock out in the sun can dramatically speed curing, since one day in the sun can be roughly equal to five or six days curing indoors. The UV rays, not just the heat, help drive the curing process.

Does the Fowler kit have any carving?

Yes, the Fowler is the first Kibler's kit to feature relief carving, located around the tang and lock panels. Most of the carving is done by machine, with some hand clean up.

Does the Kibler Fowler kit include relief carving?

Yes, the Fowler kit includes relief carving such as shell carving that is roughed in with CNC machining and then cleaned up by hand, with details like chip cuts added by hand. Jim notes that no other kit maker had offered relief carving like this before.

Does the builder still need to do any finishing work on a Woodsrunner kit?

Yes. The stock still needs to be sanded, stained, and finished, and the hardware needs to be sanded and polished to look nice. Builders who want to can also add carving or engraving.

Does the first coat of finish need to be thinned to enhance wood figure?

Thinning the first coat of finish, for example with turpentine if compatible, can help it soak further into the wood, which enhances the figure a bit more than a coat applied at full strength.

Does the machine carving on the Fowler kit need any hand finishing before it ships?

Yes. The CNC machine does a good job on the Fowler's leaf carving, but there are still some irregularities that are cleaned up by hand before the customer receives the stock. This includes scraping the carved background to blend tool marks, filing to blend machined areas together, and touching up details like the volutes so the carving flows correctly.

Does the stock need to be prepped before applying iron nitrate?

Yes. The stock should be sanded to 220 grit, then wet with a damp rag and allowed to dry, which raises the grain by lifting compressed wood fibers. That raised grain is then sanded off, and repeating this once or twice results in a smoother finished stock.

Does wood hardness affect how much tannic acid stain a stock absorbs?

Yes. A harder piece of wood tends to absorb less stain and end up a bit lighter, while a softer piece absorbs more solution and ends up a bit darker.

How are Kibler's stock patterns created before machining begins?

The process starts with a master stock made by a combination of CNC machining and hand work, which serves as the pattern for production. From that master, a three dimensional model of the stock is built in software with every inlet, pinhole, and detail represented, and that model is what tells the machines how to cut the part.

How are ramrod pipes pinned in place on the Southern Mountain Rifle?

Each pipe is clamped into its inlet, and the existing pilot hole is spotted through the pipe to mark the stock before drilling the rest of the way. The pins are then driven through, keeping track of which way each pin faces since flipping them may cause a poor fit.

How are the pins for the Colonial kit's nose cap typically installed?

Two brass pins are driven in on the 45 degree flats of the nose cap rather than straight through the bottom, which is the traditional method and matches how many original rifles were pinned, though pinning straight through the bottom in the ramrod groove is also sometimes seen. A 16th inch hole is drilled through each flat, both sides are countersunk, and the pins are peened over the barrel, used as an anvil, to form rivets.

How can I clean the breech area of a Hawken that has no cleanout screw?

Remove the barrel using the keys, take the nipple out, and stand the breech end in a bucket of water, then use a cleaning jag to pump water up and down through the bore. Pumping water through this way flushes out the snail breech channel effectively without needing a cleanout screw.

How can I hold a trigger guard steady while polishing it?

A trigger guard can be held in the stock itself, since the stock is clamped in the vise and the guard sits nestled against it for many of the surfaces. You can also get creative by shimming it or wrapping it in leather to protect it while polishing individual flats and facets.

How can I make a walnut Fowler stock look more like English walnut?

A yellow aniline dye can take away the purplish cast that American walnut sometimes has. The dye can be applied directly to the wood or mixed into the finish, and a bit of red can be mixed into the finish near the end of the process to fine tune the color as you go rather than trying to get the stain color perfect up front.

How can I stain walnut to look more like an English gun finish?

The main technique is to use a yellow dye, which takes away the purplish or brownish cast of walnut. Kibler's sells a yellow Trans Tint dye, and its stains also include a yellow option. Kibler's can provide customers with scrap wood, though not guaranteed to come from the same piece as their stock, to experiment with mixing dyes, including reddish tones, into an oil finish and adjusting color as you go.

How can you adjust pin tension if a barrel pin fits too loosely?

If a pin is too loose, tap down the middle of the slotted underlug with a hammer, then file a little on the other side closer to the barrel. This effectively moves the slot slightly and tightens the fit.

How can you tone down a bright flintlock finish without browning it?

A bright lock finish can look a little garish, so a product like Jax can be used to tone it down to a more gray color, simulating some patina and taking away the brand new look, without fully browning the lock.

How deep should relief carving be cut on a longrifle?

The height varies a lot and is hard to give an exact number for. In some spots the carving can taper to nearly nothing, while in others it might be as much as an eighth of an inch or more, since the idea that all traditional longrifle carving is uniformly shallow is an oversimplified view.

How do I add a little play to a trigger that is too tight against the sear?

File a small amount off the top of the trigger where it contacts the sear, then polish the filed area with sandpaper.

How do I align the pinhole when installing the trigger pin?

One technique is to shine a light through the hole to line it up. Another reliable technique is to take a piece of pin stock, file or grind it slightly undersized with a bit of a lead on the tip, and use it as a temporary alignment pin to feel for the trigger's pinhole before installing the permanent pin.

How do I clean up flashing on the ramrod pipes before installing them?

File off any flashing left over from the casting process to make the ends flush, then use a countersink or a small mounted stone to chamfer and smooth the edge so the ramrod will not catch when it slides through.

How do I disassemble a Hawken lock if the bridle will not budge?

The bridle is held by pins into the lock plate. Take the lock apart as far as possible, remove the bridle screws, then tap the outside of the cock so it pushes the tumbler up against the bridle and pops it off. A small piece of wood can also be used carefully as a wedge to help lift it off.

How do I fit an investment cast butt plate to the stock on the Southern Mountain Rifle kit?

First file the edges of the butt plate smooth and flat without rounding them over. Then apply inletting color to the plate, press it onto the stock, and use a sharp chisel and files to trim the high spots shown by the transfer color, repeating the process until the plate seats with no gaps.

How do I get a tight fit between the nose cap and the barrel and wood on a Colonial kit?

Slide the cap onto the barrel and check where it binds or shows a gap, then use a file to gradually adjust the tight spots, rechecking the fit repeatedly. Using transfer color is also a good way to see exactly where the cap is making contact and where it still needs adjustment.

How do I get scratches out of a Woodsrunner barrel before bluing it?

Start with draw filing, using a single cut mill file held roughly at 90 degrees to the barrel's axis and pushed along its length rather than drawn toward you, which gives a good finish on its own. For a finer finish, follow up with abrasive paper starting around 150 grit and working up to about 320 grit depending on how fine a finish you want.

How do I get the provided screws to sit flush in the butt plate's counterbore?

Chuck the screw in a drill and hold a file against the screw head while it spins, removing a small amount of material until the head fits down into the counterbore pocket properly.

How do I keep from rocking the file while draw filing as a beginner?

A common beginner challenge is rocking the file so it does not stay flat on the surface. One trick is to make a series of marker lines across the flat as a guide, so you can see if you are removing material unevenly and adjust until the file sits flat.

How do I know how much free play the set triggers should have against the sear?

Pull the hammer to full cock and check the free play at the tip of the trigger, aiming for roughly a sixteenth of an inch, possibly up to around 85 thousandths, on both the front and rear triggers. This play ensures there is no pressure on the sear from the triggers unless the shooter intends to fire.

How do I know where each key inlay (escutcheon) goes on a Hawken stock?

Each key inlay has small markings on its edge showing its position: one mark is inlay 1, the rear inlay nearest the breech on the lock side, two marks is inlay 2, the rear inlay on the cheek side, three marks is inlay 3, the front inlay on the lock side, and four marks is inlay 4, the front inlay on the cheek side. The dots on each inlay should face up, toward the barrel.

How do I remove Prussian blue transfer color that got onto the exterior of my stock?

The only real way to remove it is by sanding or scraping the wood, since acetone may just let the color penetrate further into the wood rather than removing it, leaving a light blue tint. Scraping is probably the easiest method. Going forward, use the thinnest possible film of transfer color so this is less likely to happen.

How do I remove the breech plug on a barrel?

Use a good strong bench vise with soft jaws made of copper, aluminum, or brass to protect the barrel finish, and a large crescent wrench or dedicated breech plug wrench to unthread it. Padding the barrel with brass or similar material during this process prevents marring the finish.

How do I remove the trigger guard from the stock?

The trigger guard is held on with pins that pass through tabs on the guard. Use a pair of vice grips to grab and twist the pins out, then tap the little extension at the back of the guard to free it before lifting out the rest.

How do I sharpen a flint that is not sparking well?

Put the lock to half cock and tap the edge of the flint with a small piece of metal, such as a hammer or screwdriver, while holding a finger underneath it. This knocks off small flakes and creates a sharp new edge that sparks well again.

How do I size down a ramrod so it fits the stock and ramrod tip?

Use a cabinet scraper or sandpaper wrapped around the rod, or a file or fine rasp, to remove a small amount of wood. The ramrod tip supplied with the kit is slightly smaller than the diameter of the rod, so the rod should taper down to match the tip near that end, similar to what is seen on original work.

How do I trim and finish a pin after installing it?

Mark the pin where you want to cut it, pull it out while twisting, trim it a little below the mark with side cutters, then file the end square and add a slight rounded lead on the corner. This rounded end keeps the pin from chipping the stock as it goes in and out.

How do I use the drill guide bushing to extend a pin hole?

Clamp the part snugly in its inlet near the pin location, insert the drill guide bushing through the existing hole in the wood, then run the smaller drill bit through the bushing to remove the bulk of material from the tab. Clear chips occasionally, then switch to the larger drill bit to finish the hole, since most of the material is already removed so the bigger bit will not wallow out the hole.

How do dye stains compare to iron nitrate on curly maple?

Used alone, dye stains tend to look weak and washed out compared to iron nitrate, though an additional coat can help some. Jim prefers to use dye stains in combination with iron nitrate, applying dye over the iron nitrate at the end if he wants to adjust the color.

How do the under lugs go into the barrel on a Hawken kit, and how do I know which one goes where?

The barrel is dovetailed for the under lugs, so the assembler does not need to cut anything. The under lugs are marked H1 and H2: H1 goes nearest the breech (back of the barrel) and H2 goes nearest the muzzle. Each lug has a slight taper (lead) on one side that lets it start into the dovetail with finger pressure before it is tapped fully in.

How do you actually draw file a barrel?

Hold the file with the tang in one hand and the tip in the other, roughly perpendicular to the barrel, and push it away from you along the flat (pulling toward you works too). In practice the file is often angled slightly rather than held perfectly perpendicular, and you feel for a sweet spot where it peels metal off quicker. Holding the file close in rather than spread out reduces the tendency for it to rock.

How do you add more play to a rear trigger that feels too tight against the sear?

Remove a small amount of material, roughly 5 to 10 thousandths of an inch, from the top of the rear trigger bar and polish it smooth. A belt sander, bench grinder, or diamond files can all be used for this.

How do you apply bone black pigment to a stock?

Dampen a one inch paint brush lightly with the oil finish you already used, then pick up bone black powder on a scrap piece of metal and work it into the brush. The mix should be worked until it is not too wet, since a too-wet mix does not darken the wood well, and it should be rich with pigment before applying it to areas you want darkened.

How do you apply iron nitrate stain to a rifle stock?

Pour a small amount of iron nitrate into a container, dip a Scotch-Brite pad in it, and scrub it onto the stock. Scrubbing helps burnish and smooth the wood while applying the stain. The key is to keep the stain out of the inlets, since inlet areas were traditionally never stained and the stain can react with the metal parts that fit into them. After staining, let the stock dry for 15 to 30 minutes before heating it.

How do you avoid breaking a stock when fitting the barrel tang into the barrel channel?

The barrel tang and bolster both have a taper, so hammering the barrel in too far can act like a wedge and crack the stock. Instead, work the barrel in and out gradually, using transfer color to find and remove only where there is interference, rather than forcing it in.

How do you avoid green or gray colors when using aqua fortis (iron nitrate) stain?

Green or gray discoloration with aqua fortis usually happens when the wood is not heated enough after applying the stain. It helps to practice on scrap wood first and to heat until you see a dramatic color change, from greenish gray to orangish brown. The main risk of heating too much is burning corners or charring areas, so care is still needed.

How do you avoid tear out when carving curly maple?

Read the grain direction as you cut and slice the wood rather than splitting it. Curly wood has a wavy grain, so the preferred cutting direction can be identified by the growth rings and by how shiny a cut looks, and frequent sharpening of the tools helps produce clean slicing cuts.

How do you bring back warm tones after using tannic acid with iron nitrate?

After heating and blushing the stain as normal, an oil finish can be rubbed back into the surface, and if the result is still drab, a dye stain such as Laurel Mountain Forge honey maple or Trans-Tint amber, mixed with the oil, can be worked in to add warmth back.

How do you bring out color in a cherry wood stock?

Cherry wood darkens naturally and develops a nice color over time simply from exposure to sunlight. A lye solution can be used to bring out the red tones, and aniline dyes can be used to adjust color if desired.

How do you close a small gap between the buttplate and the stock after installation?

If a small gap remains after the buttplate is screwed down, it can be closed by gently tapping along the buttplate with a hammer to seat it more tightly against the wood.

How do you cut long straight lines cleanly when carving a toe molding?

Long straight lines can be difficult to cut cleanly. One approach is to use a wide chisel and work along the line piece by piece. Another less conventional method is to use a long, pointed knife, pushing down and rolling it forward so it tracks and follows the line, which also works for slow sweeping curves.

How do you engrave metal parts on a longrifle?

Traditional engraving is done with a chisel called a graver, either tapped through the metal with a hammer or pushed by hand. This removes a small sliver of metal, which creates a shadow or can be filled or colored for contrast against the surrounding material. Engraving takes some practice, but the patterns used on longrifles are usually not very complex, and beginners can practice on scrap metal before working on a real piece.

How do you find where a lock is binding in its inlet?

Apply a thin coat of transfer color to the edges of the lock, then seat and remove it from the inlet. The areas showing color on the wood are the tight spots that need to be trimmed or scraped to let the lock seat properly.

How do you finish the loading end of a ramrod?

After the rod is sized and cut to length with a fine saw, the end is beveled, and a small hollow or gouge is cut into the tip so it seats better on top of a ball when loading.

How do you finish walnut or cherry stocks to bring out their figure?

Figured walnut and cherry can look a bit weak if left with just an oil finish and no color added, so it helps to color the wood a little to make it richer, using dye stains or a shellac sealer coat. Iron nitrate has also produced really nice results on walnut. Cherry tends to darken further with time on its own.

How do you fit the front and rear sights into their dovetails?

Sight castings vary slightly in size, so the dovetail slots in the barrel are machined a bit undersized to work with all the sights, meaning a builder often needs to open the fit slightly. This can be done with a three-cornered file with teeth ground off one side, run back and forth in the dovetail, or by carefully filing down the angled surface of the sight itself with a flat file.

How do you fix a bowed ramrod?

The easiest way to straighten a bowed ramrod is to take it in your hands and bend it firmly in the opposite direction, repeating a few times as needed. This usually works, though a rod that breaks due to grain runout is considered a defective part and Kibler's will replace it at no cost.

How do you fix an under lug that ends up a little loose after fitting?

A flattened chisel or piece of blunted metal can be placed along the edge of the dovetail and tapped to clinch the metal down slightly and tighten the fit, so a slightly loose lug is not a serious problem.

How do you identify a curly maple log before it's cut?

One key way to identify a curly tree is to look at the surface of the log directly beneath the bark, where ripples will be visible if the tree has curl. In springtime, bark slips off logs more easily, which is when a lot of curly logs get identified because the wavy surface becomes much more evident.

How do you install the ramrod tip during Woodsrunner assembly?

The tip goes into the stock end of the ramrod, not the end that sticks out, and it is designed to be a snug fit that can be tapped on. It is then retained with a small finish nail that is cross pinned through a drilled hole, with the pin heads filed flush and rounded over with a hammer so the tip cannot fall out.

How do you keep a file from loading up with metal chips while draw filing a barrel?

If a file starts to load up or pin with chips in one spot, move to a new section of the file or tap the file to knock the chips out. Chalking the file is a technique some people use, but it has not proven especially helpful in practice.

How do you know a flintlock sear screw is adjusted correctly?

When the sear screw is tightened correctly, the sear should still move freely even though the screw is snug. If tightening the screw stops the sear from moving, the screw is pinching the sear, which is a quality issue since a proper lock should allow free sear movement even with the screw tight.

How do you make sure the wood is flush with metal parts like the butt plate and tang?

Sand the wood and the adjoining metal part together so they wear down evenly at the same time, working the surrounding area rather than just one spot, since making just one small area flush without blending it into the surrounding wood will leave inconsistencies. Key areas to check are the top and sides of the butt plate where the tang is inlet, the ramrod entry pipe, and the trigger plate.

How do you peen the brass screws on the Woodsrunner nose cap without damaging anything?

On the Woodsrunner, brass screws go through the stock into the nose cap and are peened to hide the visual joint of the screw heads, though this is not necessary for strength. Rather than resting the screw head on the barrel while peening, it works better to clamp a small rod or a flattened nail in a vise to use as an anvil, then peen the screw head against that from the outside.

How do you pin the ramrod tip in place?

Drill a hole through the tip and tenon using roughly a number 50 drill bit or a 1/16 inch bit, insert the provided finishing nail as a pin, and trim it so only a small amount sticks out each side. Lightly countersink both ends of the hole, then peen the pin over with a ball peen hammer against a solid surface like a vise, and file it flush.

How do you polish and finish metal lock and mount parts?

The finishing approach depends on the look desired. For a barrel, a draw file finish alone can look nice, or it can be taken further with abrasive paper down to around 320 to 400 grit. Cast parts like mounts usually need filing to remove rough spots first, followed by abrasive paper wrapped around wood or files, and then abrasive stones for a final polish.

How do you prep a cast trigger guard before installing it in the stock?

A cast trigger guard usually needs a small amount of prep work before it goes into the stock, including filing off any burrs, filing a slight draft on the edges to clean up the cast surface, removing any remaining flash or parting lines, and clearing away any leftover casting gate material. It should also be checked to make sure it is not bent, since these can sometimes need slight straightening even though Kibler's straightens them beforehand.

How do you prepare a pin before driving it into the stock?

Cut the pin stock to length, then file a small flat lead on the entering end and round it. This lead helps the pin find the hole easily, since a sharp square edge can catch on the wood as it enters.

How do you press the cock back onto the tumbler shaft after disassembly?

Use a piece of aluminum or steel with a hole drilled to the size of the small tumbler shaft, place it over the shaft, then squeeze the whole arrangement together in a vise to seat the cock. If the vise is not smooth jawed, brass jaws should be used to avoid marring the parts.

How do you raise the grain on a rifle stock?

Wipe the stock down with a water-saturated paper towel, then let it dry in the air or speed drying with a heat gun. Once dry, sand it again with fine grit paper to cut off the raised fuzz. This is typically repeated a couple of times, with more repetitions giving a finer final finish.

How do you remove bone black pigment from an area where you applied too much?

While the pigment is still wet, you can carefully wipe some areas off with a rag. Once it has dried, it is often easier to lighten an area with steel wool or a scotch-brite pad, especially on high spots that would naturally see more wear.

How do you remove the frizzen spring from a flintlock?

Compress the frizzen spring in a smaller vise just until the pressure is off it, then remove the retaining screw with a screwdriver that properly fits the slot. A dedicated frizzen spring cramp can also be used for this instead of a vise.

How do you remove the tumbler from a flintlock?

The tumbler sits on a square shaft with a very slight taper, so once it breaks free it pops loose quickly. The plate is supported in a vise closed just enough to hold it without gripping the tumbler, then a punch (brass or mild steel) is placed on top of the tumbler shaft and tapped to knock the tumbler free.

How do you remove the tumbler from the cock (hammer) on a flintlock?

The tumbler's square shaft is pressed into the hole in the cock, so it cannot simply be wiggled off by hand or pried with a screwdriver. Instead, clamp the plate securely in a vise close to the tumbler, support it well, and use a soft punch (softer than the hardened tumbler) with a hammer to knock the cock free.

How do you rub back a tannic acid and iron nitrate stain to bring out contrast?

Using an oiled Scotch-Brite pad, the surface is rubbed back so that stain in the straight grain areas comes off more easily than stain in the end grain stripe areas, since the straight grain sheds finish faster. Rubbing harder increases the contrast between the light and dark areas.

How do you sharpen a card or cabinet scraper?

First make sure the scraper's edges are flat, square, and sharp, using a stone such as a diamond stone. Then use a hard steel burnishing rod, angled slightly, to push and deform the edge into a small hook or burr; a bigger burr scrapes more aggressively and coarser, while a smaller burr gives a finer cut. The burr can be rolled back down and re-burnished four or five times before a full re-sharpening is needed.

How do you slot barrel underlugs without specialized equipment?

Drill the pinhole first, then use a jeweler's saw to cut slightly undersized and elongate the hole into a rectangle, finishing it out with a flat needle file. It can take some practice to get comfortable with the technique.

How do you square up the ends of a ramrod pipe inlet on the Southern Mountain Rifle?

The inlet ends are cut with a ball nose tool that leaves a slight radius in the corners, while the pipe itself is square at the ends. A small chisel, such as a 1/16 inch or 1/8 inch flat chisel, is used to true up that radius so the pipe seats flush against the inlet.

How do you use bone black to darken a stock?

Bone black is applied and you will not get all the color you want in one coat, so it is built up over multiple applications, sealing it in with a coat of finish between applications. It is best to get most of the color built up fairly early, since staining and applying several coats of finish first, then trying to use bone black at the end, does not work well because the sealed, smooth wood surface has little for the bone black to grab.

How does Kibler's approach mixing colors when staining a stock?

Staining is treated like an ongoing experiment rather than a fixed formula. Builders keep adjusting the color as they go, including toning with dye stains added to the finish, even after the base coats have already been built up.

How does Kibler's machine its barrels?

Kibler's first bores the barrel and threads it for a breech plug on a lathe. The whole barrel, including the breech plug, is then machined in basically two setups. Because the breech plug is machined right on the barrel, the touch hole comes milled flat and perfectly aligned with no rotational misorientation.

How does Kibler's make parts like trigger guards and butt plates?

Complex shapes such as trigger guards and butt plates are made using investment casting, also called wax casting, because machining these irregular shapes directly would be impractical and cost prohibitive. A master pattern is used to make a mold, wax is injected into the mold to create a wax piece for each casting, and those wax pieces are sent to a foundry to be cast in metal.

How does a flintlock ignite the powder charge?

The flint scrapes the frizzen and creates sparks as the cock falls. Those sparks ignite the priming powder sitting in the flash pan, and the resulting flame travels through the touch hole in the side of the barrel to ignite the main powder charge that was poured down the bore.

How does iron nitrate compare to aniline dyes for staining a rifle stock?

Aniline dyes require layering multiple colors to build up the look a builder wants, and some very accomplished builders use them successfully. Iron nitrate is more traditional, does not fade, and gives a strong, uniform color. Aniline dyes are also less light fast over time, meaning they tend to fade more than a chemical stain like iron nitrate, though some aniline dyes hold up better than others.

How does lighting help when carving a background level?

Cross lighting from a directional light source, such as an articulating arm lamp, is important because moving the light at a low angle reveals facets and high spots clearly, while moving it only slightly can hide the same flaws. Carvers typically move the light around to make imperfections as visible as possible while working.

How does the hook breech system work on the Hawken rifle kit?

On the hook breech system, you remove two keys and the barrel can tip up out of the stock, leaving the tang, or standing breech, in the stock. No screws need to be removed to pull the barrel out. It is good procedure to also pop out the lock before removing the barrel, and the ramrod must be removed first or it will hold the barrel in place.

How does the investment casting process work for gun parts?

Each wax part is attached to a central tree, then the tree is dipped to form a ceramic shell around the wax. The wax is melted out of the ceramic shell, leaving a cavity in the shape of the parts, and metal is poured into that shell. Once the metal solidifies, the ceramic shell is broken off and the individual parts are cut from the tree.

How does the ramrod tip attach to the ramrod?

The ramrod comes with a tenon cut into the end, a small necked-down area that the tapered tip slides over. The tip is the part that enters the stock, and once fitted it is pinned in place with a cross pin driven through a small hole and peened on both ends.

How hard is it to build one of Kibler's rifle kits?

Difficulty depends a lot on someone's background and skill, but if you are patient, work carefully, watch the videos, and read the instructions, just about anybody can succeed building one of the kits. Many customers with no prior experience have built kits successfully, including on a kitchen table, and that ease of build is one of the hallmarks of the business.

How is Kibler's flintlock different from locks that have traditionally been made using investment casting?

Kibler's lock is made primarily from machined parts rather than investment castings. The lock plate, sear, tumbler, bridle, mainspring, and frizzen spring are all fully CNC machined, while only the frizzen, cock, and top jaw are castings, and even those have their critical working surfaces ground or machined.

How is tannic acid mixed and applied before staining with iron nitrate?

Tannic acid is dissolved in water to make a strong solution and applied to the stock with a rag, then allowed to dry for about 15 to 20 minutes before following up with the iron nitrate coat.

How is the background cleaned up around relief carving?

A chisel is used as a scraper to flatten and smooth the background along the carving, blending tool pads together and removing machine marks. This is followed by some filing to blend areas machined from different sides, and a fine wire brush can be used to soften lines that were cut a bit too deep.

How is the lock bolt hole drilled and tapped so it lines up correctly?

The lock is clamped in place on the stock, then drilled through the stock, washer, and lock bolster using a bit sized to the existing hole, followed by a tap-sized bit and a tap. Doing this with the lock installed in the stock keeps everything aligned; drilling the lock off the gun or on a drill press is not recommended because the hole is not perpendicular to the plate.

How is the nose cap attached to the Woodsrunner stock?

The nose cap is held on with two pre-drilled brass machine screws rather than one, which holds it more securely. The screw holes in the cap and stock are slightly offset from each other to create a draw bore effect, pulling the cap tight against the wood and barrel as the screws are tightened.

How is the ram rod tip attached to the ram rod?

The tip fits over a tenon machined into the end of the ram rod, and a cross pin, which is essentially a small nail, is driven through a drilled hole and then peened on both sides to hold the tip on. This is a traditional attachment method.

How is the ramrod tip pinned onto the ramrod?

The ramrod tip is pinned in place using a small finish nail. A hole is drilled through the tenon and the tip, the hole is lightly chamfered, and the nail is tapped in, trimmed close, and then peened with a small hammer so it deforms into the countersink and locks in place.

How is the touch hole liner installed and finished?

The threaded liner is screwed into the side of the barrel using vice grips until snug, then cut off close with a hacksaw using the groove in the liner as a guide for the blade. The remaining stub is then draw filed flush with the barrel surface, focusing only on the liner itself until it is close, then blending it level with the surrounding metal.

How long does it take to draw file a barrel flat?

For someone proficient with draw filing, each flat takes about five minutes or a little more. Typically only the top five flats, the two side flats and the three flats that show above the stock, need to be finished, since the bottom flats inside the stock do not need attention.

How many coats of bone black does it take to get a noticeable aged look?

One application does not give all of the color you would want. Building up the effect over multiple applications, roughly three or four passes, makes the darkening much more noticeable and apparent.

How many coats of finish does a rifle stock need?

Building up the film layer that gives a stock its depth and shine typically takes five or six coats of finish or more. Each coat should be scrubbed on, allowed to set up briefly, and then buffed so the finish does not puddle or become sticky on the surface.

How many coats of iron nitrate are typically applied?

At least two coats are typical. The second coat gives a richer, deeper color and also fills in any spots that were missed on the first application.

How many times can I shoot a muzzleloader before I need to clean the barrel?

This varies a lot depending on how you shoot, the products used, ball size, and patch thickness. Using a fairly tight patch and ball and continuing to push fouling down ahead of the next load lets some shooters go a long time between cleanings, while others prefer to run a cleaning patch through after every shot. There is no single fixed number of shots before cleaning is required.

How many times should I raise the grain on a stock before finishing it?

It depends on the wood and how fine a finish you want. Raising the grain once gives a coarser finish, while doing it two, three, or four times gives progressively finer results. Some hardwoods barely raise a grain at all, so under special circumstances it can even be skipped.

How much drilling and inletting does a customer actually have to do on a Kibler's kit?

All holes for lock bolts and the trigger plate's tang bolts are already drilled and tapped, and all pin holes in the stock are already drilled. The Colonial kit has all its ramrod pipe and trigger guard holes finished as well, but the Mountain rifle still requires the builder to drill through starter holes for the under lug tabs, trigger guard, and ramrod pipes. Inlets are generally very close, with only minor material removal needed in a few spots such as the corners of the tang inlet or occasional fitting on the butt plate.

How much trigger play should there be before pulling the trigger on a flintlock?

There should be very little trigger play, just a tiny bit of movement, when you touch the trigger before pulling it. That small movement means the trigger is not putting pressure on the sear until you actually pull it, which is the correct setup.

How should I deal with screw slots that are too small for standard screwdrivers on a rifle kit?

The best approach is to buy inexpensive screwdrivers and grind them down on a belt sander or file them to match the exact width of the screw slot, rather than forcing a screwdriver that does not fit well.

How should I finish a barrel after sanding it to its final grit?

After sanding a barrel up through the final grit, buffing it with Scotch-Brite, such as a red grade, helps smooth and refine the surface further before the barrel is ready for browning or bluing.

How should I finish a carved Woodsrunner stock?

Because the machining leaves a smooth surface, only light sanding is needed, starting around 220 to 320 grit along with some Scotch Brite and very fine wire brushes to burnish the carving. Grain raising has not been a significant issue in testing with water based stains, so light sanding is enough before staining.

How should I sand the area where the wrist transitions into the lock panel?

Do not sand across the transition between the wrist and the lock panel, since that tends to cut an unwanted groove there. Instead, sand along the axis of the wrist and stop at the corner where the lock panel begins.

How should I stain a stock with iron nitrate?

First sand the stock progressively with 150, 220, and 320 grit sandpaper, wetting and drying between grits. Apply iron nitrate with a rag so the surface is a little wet, let it dry for about an hour, then heat it with a heat gun on high, keeping the gun moving so you don't scorch the wood, until the color shifts dramatically from a grayish green to a richer color. A second coat and reheating can deepen the color further, and a final coat of finish oil, rubbed in with fine abrasive pads like scotch brite, brings out the full richness of the stain.

How should I stain cherry wood and what should I use to finish it?

Cherry is often left unstained, using just a finishing oil such as Kibler's sealer and finish product. Cherry may start out lighter than expected, but it darkens naturally with sunlight exposure over time and develops a nice color, so staining is optional; if you do want to adjust the color, aniline dyes are an easy way to do it.

How should finishing oil be applied around carving on a stock?

Finish should be kept out of carved details, and a toothbrush or paintbrush can be used to work finish away from and clean up around the carving.

How should ramrod pipes be checked and prepped so the ramrod hole lines up before pinning them?

The drilled hole is aligned with the ramrod groove in the stock, but the ramrod pipe inlets are left with a slight radius at each end from the cutter that must be chiseled out, otherwise the pipe cannot seat fully and the rod will not line up with the hole. Trim only the radius at the ends of the inlet, check alignment by passing a dowel through the pipe into the hole, and make sure the rod itself is sized down since dowel rod is typically a bit oversized for the hole.

How should the nose cap screws be finished on final assembly?

For final assembly, Kibler's recommends filing the brass nose cap screws so they sit just slightly above the surface of the nose cap, maybe a thirty-second of an inch or less, and then lightly peening them. This locks the screws in place so the threaded fasteners are not visible.

How should you sand around the lock panel moldings without damaging the shape?

Sand with the grain along the wrist and work up to the edge of the lock panel rather than sanding around the molding in a circular motion, which tends to create an unwanted groove. Lock panels are rarely heavily hollowed out on original guns of this period, so avoid over-defining the panel with a round or half-round file.

How tight of a fit should I expect between a buttplate and the stock before final fitting?

Buttplates are typically fitted to about 95 percent before final adjustments, since brass is malleable enough that small remaining gaps can be snugged in by hand. Softer brass is easier to adjust this way than harder brass.

How tight should a ramrod fit in the stock and pipes?

The rod should slide in but not be so tight that seasonal changes cause problems, since oil or humidity can make a rod that is already snug become too tight over time. It is worth sizing the rod with a bit of clearance rather than fitting it as tight as possible.

How tight should the front and rear sights fit in their dovetails?

The sights should be tapped in snugly but not too tight. If a sight fits too tightly it can actually flex the barrel slightly as it expands the top of the barrel, so the goal is a fit that will not move during normal use without being forced.

How tight should the nose cap screw be tightened?

Snug is enough. Overtightening the nose cap screw can crack the stock, so it should not be wrenched down as hard as possible.

How tight should the sight fit in the dovetail?

The sight should be snug in the dovetail but should not require excessive force to seat. Any burrs on the front edge should be broken first, and a dowel or piece of aluminum can be used to gently tap the sight into position without marring it.

How tight should under lugs fit into the barrel dovetails?

Under lugs should go into their dovetails without needing to be driven in heavily. If all the lugs are too tight, together they can put stress on the barrel and cause it to bow or spring, which is not wanted, so a slightly looser but still snug fit is preferred.

How was the Hawken rifle used for product photos finished?

That finish used a multi-step process involving iron nitrate, bone black, and even airbrushed black paint. Jim describes his finishing process as often spontaneous rather than a strict formula, so results vary build to build.

How would a WoodsRunner have been finished historically, in terms of barrel and lock color?

A rifle could have been left in the white or polished bright, which would develop a patina over time unless cared for immaculately, and that patina look is popular today and can be simulated with Kibler's Jax's-brand products. Charcoal bluing is another historical option, where polished steel parts are heated to around 900 degrees in the presence of charcoal to produce a deep bluish color similar to rust bluing, though it is complicated. Temper bluing, heating parts to around 600 degrees for a bright blue color, is a less durable but attractive option that was likely used on some long rifles too.

How would you add a tow plate to a Southern Mountain Rifle?

To add a tow plate, use relatively thin sheet steel, around .030 inch, ordinary mild steel is fine. Cut a piece oversize with a hacksaw, trace and scribe its outline onto the stock, remove the wood inside that outline, screw the plate down with wood screws, and then file the plate flush with the edges of the stock.

I have a small gap between the barrel and the lock on my Southern Mountain Rifle. How concerned should I be?

The lock bolster should sit fully up against the barrel, so the fix is to find what is holding it back. Apply a thin layer of transfer color to the back of the lock plate, install it, tap it in, and look carefully at the transfer marks to identify only the specific area that needs to be relieved, rather than removing wood everywhere the color shows.

In what order should I build, finish, and sand a rifle kit?

Build the gun and get everything fit first, then adjust the stock and the hardware to match each other, then finish, and only then sand the wood and metal parts. Sanding or polishing hardware before the gun is fully built and fitted causes problems, since fitting parts like a trigger guard involves bending and tapping that will mar a pre-polished finish.

In what order should the mainspring and frizzen spring be installed on a flintlock?

The frizzen spring needs to be installed first, before the mainspring, because the frizzen spring's screw sits behind where the mainspring goes.

Is Kibler's finish historically accurate?

The finish used is tung oil based, which is not strictly historically accurate since tung oil was not common during the colonial period, when most finishes were linseed oil based. In practical use though, tung oil and linseed oil are difficult to tell apart once applied to a rifle.

Is a super high polish finish accurate for a historically styled rifle?

No, a very high polish is not typical of original work. Eighteenth century guns commonly show file marks and coarser abrasive marks, so a finish that is not perfectly smooth is not shoddy, it can look good and be historically appropriate. A preference of sanding up to about 320 or 400 grit, then using scotch brite or loose abrasive to add a bit of shine, is common rather than a full buffed polish.

Is browning an historically appropriate finish for a Kibler's rifle?

Browning is probably appropriate on anything that would have been made around 1790 or later. Kibler's earlier guns, the Colonial, Fowler, and WoodsRunner, represent an earlier period, so browning is probably not the best choice if historical correctness matters for those models.

Is browning or rust bluing period appropriate for a Woodsrunner barrel finish?

Rust browning and rust bluing are probably not period correct for the Woodsrunner, since rust browning likely first appeared in the 1780s or 1790s at the earliest, and rust bluing (essentially a boiled version of rust browning) came about the same time or a bit later. Modern hot bluing is also not period correct. For the Woodsrunner's actual period, appropriate options are limited to charcoal bluing or leaving the barrel in the white, since heat bluing and modern hot bluing are not options here.

Is carving a skill a beginner can try?

Yes. A beginner can start with something simple, like lines on the cheekpiece, and if that goes well, move on to a lower buttstock molding line and build up skill from there. Carving is an acquired skill that takes practice to develop.

Is carving required on a Kibler's rifle stock?

No. Carving is completely optional. A few simple lines can accentuate the rifle, but a build can be finished without any carving at all.

Is it a problem if bluing gets inside the bore of the barrel during charcoal bluing?

It generally does not cause a problem. With charcoal bluing, the whole barrel is blued at once, and often fine charcoal packed in the bore does not create issues when shooting; any residue tends to just shoot out. Scotch Brite on a lap could be used to clean it out if desired.

Is it a problem if the buttplate hangs over the wood slightly at the bottom of the stock?

A slight overhang at the bottom, or toe, of the stock does not make much practical difference and is something seen on original guns as well, often from wood shrinkage over time.

Is it dangerous to knap a flint while it's still installed in the lock?

It can be done safely, but if a metal tool is used to strike the flint there is a chance of creating a spark, which could be dangerous, so care should be taken.

Is it good practice to smooth a carved background with sandpaper or files instead of a chisel?

Not generally. New carvers are often tempted to use sandpaper or files to compensate for difficulty controlling a chisel, but it is better to learn to slice the wood off cleanly and read the surface by eye. A file can be reasonable in big open areas, like along the wrist, but it is not practical or a good habit in tighter carved areas.

Is it necessary to stone double-set triggers for a smoother action?

It is not necessary. Careful stoning might improve smoothness a tiny, barely noticeable bit since the set triggers are already pretty finely finished, but unless you are careful about how you stone them, you can actually do more damage than good.

Is it necessary to take a flintlock completely apart before fitting the lock plate into the stock?

It is not strictly necessary, since the edges can be filed with the parts still on the lock, but it is trickier that way. Taking the lock apart first makes it easier to true up and file the edges of the plate cleanly.

Is it okay for the buttplate to extend slightly past the wood on a longrifle stock?

Yes. It is acceptable for the buttplate to extend a little past the wood, since original guns often show this from wood shrinkage over time. What is not acceptable is having the wood extend past the buttplate.

Is it okay if my ramrod has a slight bow to it?

A slight bow in the ramrod does not hurt anything. Turning the rod in a particular direction can make it fit tighter or looser in the channel depending on the bow, and if the bow is more than you like, it can simply be bent straight.

Is it okay to dry fire a flintlock without the frizzen closed?

No, you should never trip the lock without the frizzen closed. Without the frizzen there to absorb the energy of the cock's motion, the cock comes to an abrupt stop on the shoulder, and that inertia can bend the top jaw screw and is generally hard on the lock. You do not need a flint in the jaws to trip it safely, a piece of wood works too, but the frizzen must be closed.

Is it okay to use steel wool to clean rust off the face of a frizzen?

Yes, it is fine to use steel wool to clean the face of the frizzen when rust starts to form.

Is the Hawken kit harder to assemble than Kibler's other kits, like the Fowler or Woodsrunner?

The greater number of parts and tighter tolerances mainly increase the manufacturing challenge for Kibler's, not the assembly difficulty for the builder. Assembly should be in line with kits like the Fowler or Woodsrunner rather than noticeably harder.

Is the finishing process for a rifle stock an exact science?

Finishing is not an exact science. The approach is to start with an idea of what you want and keep adjusting as you go, even mixing dyes into your finishes and working the color as the piece comes together, which is why the exact steps used on a particular finished gun are often hard to recall afterward.

My trigger was fitted properly before finishing but started binding after the finish was applied. What should I check?

The cause needs to be identified before fixing it. If there was no play between the top of the trigger and the sear to begin with, filing the top of the trigger down will help, but if the binding comes from wood swelling or finish buildup, that underlying cause needs to be addressed instead.

Should I apply more than one coat of iron nitrate stain?

Yes, applying more than one coat is common and Jim usually does it himself, mainly because it is easy to miss a small spot on the first coat. A second coat over the whole stock may darken it slightly, but not dramatically more than a single coat.

Should I build and assemble the whole rifle before sanding or polishing?

Yes, the number one recommendation for every rifle is to fully assemble the build first before doing any sanding, filing, or polishing. Building it complete first lets you sand the wood down flush to the metal parts, which works much better than trying to finish pieces separately.

Should I carve a groove or channel right along the edge of a carving design?

No. Cutting a groove along the design line is not a good approach even though some have promoted it. It is better to work the whole surrounding area down more evenly at once, since focusing on one small area can dig a hole that is hard to blend into a smooth, clean surface.

Should I clinch or stake the under lugs after installing them on the barrel?

It is not strictly necessary since the fit is designed to be good, but you can further secure an under lug after installing it by using a screwdriver or flat chisel at the junction of the barrel and the under lug and tapping it down slightly, or by using a center punch to make dots on the outer corners of the under lug and barrel. Kibler's designs the under lug angles relative to the dovetail so that pressure sits at the top of the dovetail rather than in the bottom corners, making the fit more forgiving.

Should I disassemble my lock before applying a metal darkening product like Jax's?

Yes, it is best to take the lock apart before using a product like Jax's, because the product can get into places like screw threads where it should not be and cause corrosion over time if left on an assembled lock.

Should I draw file the barrel on my rifle kit?

Jim recommends draw filing the barrel for a nicer finish, even though the barrels already come well made from the factory. Draw filing improves on an already good factory finish.

Should I draw file the part of the barrel that will be hidden inside the stock?

It is not necessary to draw file or finely finish the part of the barrel that sits inside the stock and will not be seen. Historically, 18th century barrels were often finished quite coarsely in the area that sat inside the stock.

Should I drill out the ramrod hole in the stock if the ramrod does not fit?

No, drilling out the hole in the stock is not a good idea. Instead, size the ramrod down by tapering and sanding the rod itself, especially where it enters the stock.

Should I expect iron nitrate to produce an exact target color on my stock?

Iron nitrate will look good and appropriate, but each piece of wood stains and finishes a little differently: some come out more red, some more brown, and some lighter if the wood is very hard. Jim advises staying flexible rather than trying to force a specific color, since heavily curled areas absorb more stain and end up darker.

Should I fully assemble my rifle before polishing or sanding it?

Jim advises assembling the entire rifle before doing any polishing or sanding. Building it up first lets everything fit together properly before you refine the finish.

Should I install the butt plate or the nose cap and standing breech first on a Hawken kit?

There is some flexibility in order of assembly since it often comes down to preference. The butt plate can be installed first since the toe is a little fragile and installing it early can help protect it, but doing the standing breech, nose cap, and barrel first is also fine.

Should I plan on tuning up a new Kibler's flintlock after I get it?

No, Kibler's does not recommend it. Because the lock is machined to be as good as it can be from the start, tuning it up afterward is treated as unnecessary rather than a normal step some builders expect with other locks.

Should I polish the buttplate before or after fitting it to the stock?

Wait until after the buttplate is fully fitted and installed to polish it. Polishing the mating surfaces first is not the best approach, since the buttplate may still need filing to close up gaps, and that filing would undo any polish already applied.

Should I polish the metal parts before or after assembling my rifle kit?

Assemble the rifle first, then finish the parts last. Polishing parts down before assembly is not recommended, since the assembly process itself can affect fit.

Should I sand a stock before or after the rifle is fully assembled?

You should sand after the whole gun is assembled and the parts are in place, not before. Trying to sand a stock before assembly does not work well, and similarly you should not polish metal parts like the butt plate or trigger guard until after assembly, since the building process will scratch them and require repolishing anyway.

Should I sand or scrape a rifle stock?

Both approaches produce a fine rifle, so it comes down to preference. Sanding is easier and better for beginners, giving a clean finish, while scraping can leave a bit more texture and surface interest but is somewhat harder to get an even finish with. The claim that a rifle must be scraped to be considered fine is not accurate.

Should I trim the ramrod flush with the end of the stock or leave it sticking out?

Jim usually trims the ramrod flush with the end of the stock. Some builders leave a little extra sticking out so it is easier to grab with fingers when loading or removing the rod, but a protruding rod can also catch on things.

Should I try to adjust the position of the standing breech on a Hawken build?

No. On a Hawken rifle, the position of the standing breech relative to the lock is very critical, so the breech face should not be moved even if it seems like it needs adjustment.

Should I use water or alcohol to raise the grain on a stock?

Water is recommended over alcohol for raising the grain because it has a stronger effect, causing the wood fibers to swell more fully back to their unstressed shape. Alcohol raises the grain less than it will raise later on its own, so it is not as effective for this step.

Should I use wax on the screws when installing the butt plate?

Yes. Putting a little beeswax, candle wax, or even soap on the screw threads makes them go into the wood more easily.

Should a first time builder put a nose cap on the Southern Mountain Rifle?

Adding a nose cap to the Southern Mountain Rifle is discouraged for inexperienced builders because the wood at the front of the stock is very thin, making it easy to damage, and off the shelf caps will not fit properly. Some customers have added poured pewter caps successfully, but this is a tricky, more advanced project, and historically some original mountain rifles had caps while others did not.

Should a touch hole liner be filed flush by hand?

Yes. After threading the liner in tight and cutting off the excess with a hacksaw, it is filed flush with the barrel using a coarse file focused on the liner itself, taking care not to gouge the barrel, and finished by draw filing with a mill file.

Should carved relief backgrounds be perfectly flat?

The relief should not dive in sharply around the carved element. Instead, it should fade out gradually so the lines carry through the stock and the carving looks like it was applied to the surface, not cut abruptly into it.

Should hardware be left on the stock while staining?

It is generally best to remove most metal parts before staining, though a patch box or inlays can sometimes be left in place.

Should iron nitrate stain be applied inside metal part inlets?

No. Inlets were traditionally never stained, and stain in an inlet is much harder to fully heat and neutralize. Leftover acidity in an inlet is more likely to corrode or rust the metal part that sits in it.

Should the barrel and ramrod holes need extra fitting when I install the barrel on the Woodsrunner kit?

No, the under lugs come already machined and slotted as part of the barrel, and the ramrod holes are already drilled, so the barrel should go directly into the stock without extra fitting once any chips are cleaned out. The one exception is if your climate is significantly different from the shop's climate, which can cause the wood to change dimensions slightly.

Should the breech plug threads be case hardened?

Jim does not recommend case hardening the breech plug threads, even though the rest of the breech plug can be hardened. Proper case hardening for actual hardness could make the threads too brittle or hard to work with. Low temperature color case hardening done purely for color, without real hardening depth, is less of a concern, but true case hardening on the threads is not a good idea.

Should the flint's bevel face up or down in the jaws?

For the round faced lock, the flint usually works best with the bevel down, though for a very long flint, bevel up will likely work as well.

Should the inlets on a rifle stock be sealed with finish?

Traditionally, inlets were not sealed or finished in any way. No gun stock finish is fully waterproof, so moisture will get into the stock either way, and well-fitted parts largely block moisture from entering the inlet. Builders can choose to put a coat of sealer in the inlets if they want, but original guns were not finished there and still hold up well.

Should the lock panels on a longrifle come to a sharp point?

No. Lock panels do not need to come to a sharp point. On originals, lock panels are typically a bit blunter with a slight radius, even though less experienced builders often think they need to be pointed.

Should the pin slot near the muzzle end under lug be longer than the ones near the breech?

Yes. The under lug nearest the muzzle needs more slot length than the ones nearer the breech, because there is less surrounding wood there to accommodate expansion. Slots are often made progressively longer moving toward the muzzle.

Should the sight overhang the sides of the barrel?

It is fine, and actually a good idea, to leave the edges of a sight hanging over the sides of the barrel a bit rather than filing them perfectly flush. This leaves room to adjust the sight for windage later, though the sharp edges should still be rounded off for comfort and appearance.

Should the wood behind the tang on a longrifle be flat or curved?

Traditionally, the wood directly behind the tang stays basically flat, with at most a very slight curve. That flat area then gradually transitions into a more rounded wrist, which is normal and correct.

Should you alternate bone black coats with plain finish coats?

It often works well to alternate between a coat that darkens an area with bone black and a plain coat of finish, since the finish coat helps lock in the darkening. As more finish builds up, it has less to bite into for further darkening, and finishes with solvents can lift off previously applied darkening if rubbed too hard, so apply finish gently over darkened areas.

Should you carve a stock before or after sanding it?

The stock should be prepped, meaning sanded through the full grit progression, before carving begins, regardless of whether the rifle will ultimately be carved. There are some exceptions once you have more experience, but as a general rule prep the stock first and then start carving.

Should you remove the barrel from a Woodsrunner or Southern Mountain Rifle to clean it?

Most people leave the barrel pinned in the stock and clean it in place by plugging the touch hole, such as with a toothpick, pouring water down the barrel, sloshing it around, dumping it out, and then running cleaning patches through. The barrel can be removed for cleaning instead, but care should be taken not to damage anything, and the pin ends should stay rounded.

Should you use oil or grease when reassembling a flintlock?

On high load points, such as the tumbler shaft, the sear bearing surfaces, and the mainspring, a little grease is preferred over oil since it stays in place better under load. A small amount of oil can also be used on lighter contact points like screws and pivots.

There is a gap or hole in the stock between the barrel channel and the lock inlet, is that a defect?

A hole roughly half an inch to three quarters of an inch long between the barrel channel and the lock inlet is normal and not a defect. It occurs where the mainspring inlet breaks through the barrel channel on the 45 degree flat, and this same detail appears on high end custom guns as a sign of correct, quality work.

Were flintlocks typically rusted, browned, or left bright during the 1700s?

In the 1700s it was not common to rust brown a lock, and this only became more common toward the very end of the 18th century. Locks were generally case hardened and more often left bright during that period rather than given a rust or brown finish.

Were original Hawken maple stocks typically finished plain or stained dark?

Many original maple-stocked Hawken rifles appear to have been finished with a dark brown, highly pigmented varnish that wore through in certain areas over time, which added depth and highlighted the form and shape of the stock.

What abrasive stones work well for polishing small details like beads on brass hardware?

Softer abrasive stones that break down and conform to the part's shape, used with a lubricant like stoning oil, work well on details such as beads. Because they break down on contact with a corner, they make it hard to accidentally round off crisp edges.

What advice do you have for first time rifle kit builders?

Take your time and look at each build step on its own rather than viewing the whole project as one huge task, so you do not become overwhelmed. There is no need to rush, and mistakes are rarely unfixable, so do not be afraid to ask questions, even ones that have been asked many times before.

What are chip cuts on carved gun stocks?

Chip cuts are small traditional carved details, cut by stabbing a chisel down and then coming back at an angle to remove a small chip. They are common on American and English carving work and are kept traditional in style rather than made elaborate, to stay appropriate to the grade of the build.

What are some tips for working with cherry wood on a rifle stock?

Cherry can be somewhat brittle, with lower shear strength than maple or walnut, so it wants to break when cut across the grain. Tools should be kept very sharp, especially when cutting along the end grain.

What are the first chisels I should buy to start a longrifle build?

Kibler's kits do not require many tools, so a good starting set is a 1/4 inch chisel and an 1/8 inch chisel. The tools do not need to be top of the line quality. A lower quality chisel will still work fine, it will just need more frequent sharpening.

What are the keys to getting browning to take well on a lock or barrel?

Prepare the surface first, but not too finely, since an overly fine surface can make it harder for the browning solution to bite in and start. After preparing the surface, follow the browning solution's instructions. If you are in a very dry environment, it can help to set up a damp box, an environment slightly more humid and a bit warmer than ambient conditions, to help the browning take.

What are the two basic steps to finishing a gunstock?

Finishing a gunstock involves two basic operations: first staining the wood with something like iron nitrate (aqua fortis) or aniline dyes to establish color, and second applying a topcoat finish that seals the wood and gives it sheen. Lighter woods like maple are almost always stained, while walnut or cherry are stained occasionally to adjust color, and ash is typically always stained.

What are the two basic types of carving used on a longrifle stock?

There is incise carving, which is a V groove cut into the stock, and relief carving, where an element is outlined and the background around it is cut away so the element stands proud. In practice, incise and relief work are often combined in the same design.

What backing should I use when sanding a rifle stock so I don't ruin the surface?

Do not sand by holding sandpaper folded in your bare hand, since that will round over surfaces unevenly. Back the sandpaper with something firm, like a block of wood, a wood block with a bit of rubber glued to it, or by wrapping the paper around a file.

What can I use to protect the metal-to-wood inlet surfaces and barrel channel on a rifle I plan to hunt with?

Applying a coat or two of whatever finish was used on the rest of the gun to the inlet surfaces helps protect them, and the bottom of the barrel channel can be waxed, oiled, or lightly greased. Original guns were not perfectly sealed in these areas either and still saw hard service, so it is not something to be overly concerned about.

What do you do if the sights have a casting nub on the bottom?

If a sight arrives with a small casting gate nub on the bottom, file it flush and flat before fitting. The bottom needs to be flat or the sight will not seat correctly in the dovetail.

What does it mean to relieve a carving?

Relieving means cutting away the wood on the background side of a molding or carved element so the element stands out. The cutting is done moving away from the element so the tool does not slip into it and damage the design.

What does it mean when a scraper makes a different sound or leaves a whitish mark on the wood?

That happens when you scrape against the grain direction instead of with it. Scraping with the proper grain direction produces a nice shiny cut, while bucking the grain produces a whitish appearance and a different, often louder, sound.

What finish brings out curl in maple the best?

Iron nitrate is a traditional stain choice that still shows curl very well. As far as topcoat finish, almost any finish that builds up a bit more shine will make the curl show more.

What finish creates an aged, 1700s-style look on a maple stock?

Iron nitrate, also called Aqua Fortis, is a strong choice for making a rifle look like it could have been built in the 1700s. It stains maple very nicely and gives an appropriate historic appearance.

What finish does Kibler's use after staining a stock with iron nitrate?

After staining, Jim applies Permalyn Sealer, made by Laurel Mountain Forge, which Kibler's sells. It is a thin finish that penetrates well, dries fairly fast, and is durable and water resistant. Jim notes that many different finishing products can produce a good looking result, since the outcome depends more on technique than on the specific product used.

What finish works best over bone black without smearing it?

A finish with fewer solvents, such as Tried and True oil varnish, works well because it is less likely to attack and smear a previous coat of bone black. Finishes with more solvents, such as Permalyn, can be used too, but they need to be applied lightly rather than rubbed in, since rubbing can dissolve and smear the bone black underneath.

What finishes does Kibler's recommend for a gunstock?

Kibler's recommends two main finishes: Permalyn Sealer, which is durable, dries fast, and is easy to use (Jim prefers the thinner sealer version over the thicker finish product since it allows thinner, better looking coats), and Tried and True oil varnish, a more traditional linseed oil based finish with rosin added that cures faster than plain linseed oil. Hardware store linseed oil is not recommended.

What glossy stock finishing oils work well besides specialty products?

Plain boiled linseed oil can work for a glossy finish, along with various specialty stock finishing oils. Many finishes can work well with enough patience, though some perform a bit better than others.

What grain filler would you recommend for a Fowler stock I want to finish to a gloss?

Constantine's black filler is the only grain filler Jim has used and it worked well. It has historically been available in smaller cans through other retailers, and Kibler's has considered stocking it directly.

What grit progression does Jim Kibler recommend for sanding a buttplate after filing?

A typical progression is 150 grit over the whole part, then 220 grit over the whole part, then 320 grit over the whole part. The whole process takes roughly 15 to 20 minutes once you are moving through the grits.

What grit progression is used when sanding a rifle stock before finishing?

The stock is sanded over its entirety with 150 grit paper first, then again with 220 grit paper using the same process. After the grain is raised, a final pass is done with 320 grit paper before the stock is ready for finish.

What grit progression should I use when sanding a barrel after draw filing?

After draw filing, work through sandpaper starting around 150 grit and progressing up to about 220 grit, going no finer than 320 grit. Using a flexible backing like a piece of leather wrapped around the sandpaper helps it conform to the round barrel shape while still providing support.

What happens chemically when iron nitrate is applied over tannic acid?

The iron nitrate reacts with the tannic acid to form iron tannate, a very dark compound. This same chemistry has historically been used to make ink.

What happens if a stock is not heated enough or heated too much after staining with iron nitrate?

If it is not heated enough, a grayish green residual color will be left behind. If it is heated too much, corners and edges, which heat up fastest, can scorch and burn, so the aim is to heat it enough to fully develop the color without overdoing it.

What is Kibler's sealer finish like compared to Laurel Mountain Forge products?

Kibler's sealer is a tung oil based product. Compared to what is remembered of the Laurel Mountain Forge finish, it is described as a bit more modern in feel, drying a little harder, being less flexible, and being slightly more waterproof.

What is Kibler's working on for CNC relief carving?

Kibler's has been developing a way to model and CNC-cut relief carving on a stock so that it looks essentially indistinguishable from hand carving, without requiring hand work or highly specialized labor. The design work is done by hand-modeling the carving into the digital stock model rather than starting from a laser scan, since scans tend to lose detail in complex carved areas.

What is a common mistake beginners make when using transfer color?

A common beginner mistake is applying too much transfer color at once, which coats the stock heavily and makes it impossible to tell exactly where the metal is interfering with the wood. Only a thin film should be applied for it to be useful.

What is a dowel rod used for when assembling a kit?

A dowel rod is used to knock sights in and out of their dovetails or to tap parts, such as the front of a trigger guard, into the stock without hitting the part directly and marring it.

What is a good finish choice for a rifle that will be used hunting in wet or harsh weather?

For weatherproofing a barrel used in harsh, wet conditions, browning or rust bluing are durable choices, with rust bluing simply being browning that is boiled afterward. For the wood, a durable waterproof finish like permalyn (if available) is a strong choice, though Kibler's has moved to other finish options as that product became harder to source.

What is a good method for attaching the nose cap securely to the stock?

Gluing the nose cap on with five minute epoxy first, letting it set, and then installing the retaining rivets afterward makes the rivets much easier to install than trying to pin an unglued cap. Epoxy alone is not enough to hold the cap long-term, so it should always be paired with pinning.

What is a good order of operations for installing the nose cap and barrel?

It works better to install the nose cap before installing the barrel and lock, since installing the nose cap afterward requires pulling the barrel back out. It is not a big deal either way since a rifle often has to be taken apart multiple times during assembly, but the nose cap first order avoids extra disassembly.

What is a good way to check a stock's surface for defects before staining it?

Use a light held at a low angle relative to the stock, known as raking light, which highlights the surface finish and reveals defects clearly. Checking the surface this way before staining and finishing is worthwhile even though it can be tempting to skip ahead.

What is a good way to clean a Southern Mountain rifle?

Clean it the same way as a fowler: plug the touch hole, pour cold water down the barrel, let it sit, then dump and follow with cleaning patches.

What is a good way to hold a buttplate while polishing it?

You can polish the buttplate right on the stock by clamping the stock in a vise, though the stock can be a bit cumbersome to manipulate that way. Another option is to cut a block of wood to the shape of the buttplate and attach the plate to it with small screws, taking care not to over tighten the screws so the plate does not distort.

What is a good way to remove a barrel from the stock without damaging it?

Hold the muzzle end firmly, cradle the breech end, and give it a light tap to pop the barrel free. This technique helps prevent damage compared to other removal methods.

What is a good way to use a pin punch without damaging the stock?

Hold the punch with your finger very close to the end, almost touching the tip, so your finger rests against the stock and controls the punch. Holding it further back lets the punch slip and slide and can beat up the stock.

What is a mallet used for when assembling a Kibler's kit?

A mallet is used to tap the barrel into place when fitting it, such as tapping at the breech to make sure it is fully seated or tapping at the muzzle to make sure the breech is all the way back. A hard maple mallet with decent weight works well, though a plastic tip or brass hammer can also be used.

What is a parrot vise and how is it modified for gun building?

A parrot vise has a movable jaw, usually a piece of aluminum with leather on the front, that pivots to accommodate different stock shapes. Kibler's has sold a version of these in the past and adds a set screw to keep the jaw from spinning freely, which is a small modification that helps it hold steady during work.

What is bone black used for on a rifle stock?

Bone black is a very finely ground pigment used to selectively darken areas of a finished stock to simulate age, rather than leaving a uniform stain color. It adds interest to the rifle and helps details like carving stand out from the background.

What is burnishing and why is it done on a rifle stock?

Burnishing means rubbing a smooth, hard object such as a polished antler or wooden dowel over the finished stock. It smooths and slightly compresses the grain, giving the wood a different, more handled appearance, and afterward the wood soaks up less oil, which speeds up the rest of the finishing process.

What is charcoal bluing and how does it work?

Charcoal bluing involves heating the whole barrel in a container packed with charcoal to roughly 900 degrees. The lack of oxygen from the burning charcoal forms a relatively thick oxide layer on the steel. It works well but requires specialized equipment and is not typically practical to do at home.

What is draw filing and why is it used on a rifle barrel instead of just sanding?

Draw filing is a traditional technique where you hold a file with both hands and slide it lengthwise along the barrel, letting it flex to follow the barrel's shape. It works well because it irons out any minor high or low spots and smooths inconsistencies, which is especially noticeable on a polished barrel where imperfections in the surface finish show up clearly.

What is grain raising and why is it important when finishing a stock?

Grain raising means wetting the stock down with water, which expands wood fibers that were compressed during shaping back to their unstressed state. If you skip this step, those fibers will slowly return to their natural state as the gun ages, resulting in a rough stock later on. It's best to raise the grain at least two or three times, sanding lightly with fresh, sharp sandpaper after each raising.

What is ingrown bark and how is it repaired on a stock?

Ingrown bark is a small defect where the tree grows around bark, trapping it inside, often at a fold or scar that later heals over. It usually cannot be spotted until the stock is shaped, and it can be repaired by working dark or clear CA glue into the crack, letting it harden, and sanding it flush, after which it is often barely visible on a dark wood like walnut.

What is iron nitrate stain and why is it used on curly maple?

Iron nitrate, commonly called aqua fortis, is a solution made by dissolving iron in nitric acid diluted with water. It is a traditional stain for curly maple that gives a nice, very permanent color.

What is iron nitrate stain made of?

Iron nitrate is a chemical stain made from water, nitric acid, and iron mixed together. Before it is heated it looks gray and dull, but heating causes a chemical reaction that turns the color to an orangish brown with red and sometimes yellow tones.

What is relief carving and how does it differ from just outlining a design?

In relief carving, the design stands above the background rather than being cut as a groove. After the design is stabbed in (outlined) around its perimeter, the background around it is carefully lowered and smoothed so the carving stands proud of the surrounding wood.

What is relief carving?

Relief carving means the design stands above the background. The process is to outline the design that has been drawn, remove the wood between the outlined areas to create the background, and then shape the design.

What is scraping and how does it compare to sanding a stock?

Scraping is a traditional alternative to sanding that uses a hardened piece of spring steel with a burred edge to peel off thin shavings of wood. It removes wood faster than sandpaper and leaves a smooth finish, but requires more skill, and it can give the surface a slightly different, less perfectly uniform texture that many builders find adds character.

What is temper bluing?

Temper bluing is done by heating the metal to around 600 degrees, similar to tempering a spring, which turns it a robin's egg blue color. It is a period correct option but is not very durable.

What is the best way to bring out figure in maple stock wood?

For maple, iron nitrate stain alone or combined with tannic acid is a good finish choice that accentuates the curl in the wood. The tannic acid treatment with iron nitrate is a great option specifically for accentuating figure.

What is the best way to knap or sharpen a flint?

Rather than just banging on the flint with a hammer, hold your finger underneath the flint and very lightly tap the top with a small hammer. This lets you use very little force to knock off flakes, and it can be done safely while the flint is installed in the gun.

What is the best way to remove the barrel from a stock during assembly?

Hold the stock upside down, grip the barrel near the muzzle reasonably tight with one hand while resting the stock in the other, then tap the barrel to start it moving and help guide it as it pulls out. This is a better method than picking the barrel up by the muzzle.

What is the best way to remove the standing breech if it fits tightly?

Insert a punch or rod through the tang bolt hole so it catches on the standing breech, then tap it. This forces the back end of the standing breech out and is the best way to remove it when it is a tight fit.

What is the correct way to remove the mainspring from a flintlock?

Use a vise to compress the mainspring rather than pliers or vise grips, since those tools risk damaging or breaking the spring. Use a vise large enough that pressure is applied out near the end of the spring rather than close to the coiled part, since the spring is much harder to compress if you clamp too close to that end.

What is the difference between clean tool marks and torn grain when carving?

Clean tool marks, or facets left by a chisel, are perfectly acceptable and even attractive on a carved background. Torn grain is different and is a flaw: it happens when the wood breaks rather than slices cleanly, and it will show clearly once the gun is finished.

What is the easiest way to install the sear spring on a flintlock?

Put the screw partway in with two or three turns, let the spring's projection fall into place, then squeeze the spring down so it snaps into place before finishing tightening the screw.

What is the fastest way to build up a smoke damaged rifle after a house fire?

If it is just soot and the metal did not get very hot, the soot can often be wiped off, and something like Murphy's Oil Soap is sometimes used to help clean wooden objects like a stock. If the finish is more heavily affected, the piece could be disassembled, and the wood finish stripped with something like acetone and refinished from there.

What is the included tap used for when assembling the kit?

The included tap helps align screw holes that are close but not perfectly lined up, such as the lock bolt hole or the tang bolt holes. Threading the tap through the hole first, as if it were the bolt itself, helps everything align so the actual bolt starts and threads in much more easily afterward.

What is the key technique for applying Tried & True or Permalyn Sealer finish?

The key with both of these finishes is to apply them in thin coats. The first coat can soak in fully, which is fine, but as you build up additional coats, keeping them very thin is important.

What is the minimum tool set needed to assemble a Kibler's kit?

At minimum, a builder needs some kind of striking tool like a hammer, at least one chisel, a drill (except for the Woodsrunner and Fowler, which need no drilling), a clamp, a pair of pliers, cutters, screwdrivers, at least one file, and sandpaper. Kibler's kits are designed to go together with relatively few tools because the parts are so well fitted and finished.

What is the parting line on a cast buttplate and why does it need attention?

The parting line is a witness line left on a casting by the manufacturing process, and on the buttplate it runs down the center. Filing needs to remove any mismatch or visible line there so it disappears into the finished surface.

What is the single most significant thing I can do to make a Colonial rifle kit stand out?

Carving is the most significant thing a builder can do to make a Colonial kit stand out. Even simple carving, such as lock moldings, a toe line, or carving around the comb, adds a lot as long as it fits the style of the rifle and is well executed, so studying original colonial American work and books on the subject is recommended.

What is the tradeoff between using a coarse file and a fine file when polishing brass parts?

A coarser file removes material faster but leaves coarser marks that take longer to remove afterward, while a finer file cuts more slowly but leaves less work to clean up. It is a balance, and finer files also tend to clog more.

What is the trick for lining up a pin hole in the trigger with the hole in the stock?

It helps to look down through the hole from above, sometimes with a light shining from below, to line up the trigger hole with the hole in the stock before tapping the pin through.

What is transfer color and how should it be used when fitting parts?

Transfer color is a substance like Prussian blue, candle soot, or bone black mixed with a little oil, applied in a very thin coat to a metal part before inserting it into the wood inlet. It shows where the part is contacting the wood and preventing it from seating fully, so that spot can be trimmed. A common mistake beginners make is applying too much, which makes it hard to tell exactly where the part is rubbing.

What is transfer color and why is it used when fitting metal parts into a rifle stock?

Transfer color, commonly Prussian blue, is a pigmented material brushed onto a metal part before test-fitting it into the wood. Where the color rubs off onto the wood, that shows exactly where the metal and wood are making contact, or interfering, which tells the builder where to remove wood.

What is transfer color used for when fitting a barrel or parts into a stock?

Transfer color, such as Prussian blue, is a thin coating applied to a metal part before inserting it into the wood to reveal exactly where the part is rubbing or interfering with the inlet. Only a very light coat should be used, since too much gives false readings; alternatives include soot from a candle or commercial inletting black.

What kind of bluing is historically correct for a colonial period rifle?

The only type of bluing that seems likely to have been used in the colonial period is charcoal bluing, which is a difficult, not really a home shop process. If historical correctness is not a concern, rust bluing is a nice option that came into use later, in the 19th century, and produces a color similar to charcoal blue with a slightly different look.

What kind of file does Kibler's recommend for draw filing a rifle barrel?

A single cut file works well for draw filing, such as an 8 inch Bahco file, though a 6 inch file can also be used. Bahco files are made in Portugal by a Swiss-owned company and are good quality.

What kind of file should I use to draw file a barrel?

Use a mill file, which has a flat, rectangular cross section with teeth cut in only one direction rather than a crossed pattern, allowing a finer, smoother finish. An 8 inch mill file works well, and while premium brands like Bahco are nice, an ordinary big-box-store file will get the job done.

What kind of file should be used to fit an under lug into its dovetail?

A triangular file with a 60 degree angle and safe edges, meaning no teeth on the sides that ride along the dovetail bottom, works well. This lets you widen the dovetail without accidentally cutting it deeper or nicking the sides.

What kind of file works well on the flat facets of a cone or molding on the buttplate?

A mill file, which is a flat, single cut file with teeth running in one direction only, works well on flat facets like the cone. It leaves a finer finish than the coarser file used on the rest of the buttplate.

What kind of lighting is best for doing detailed carving work?

Directional light from an articulating arm light is important for carving, as opposed to flat fill light, because directional light shows shadows, contours, and shapes much better.

What kind of punch should be used to knock the cock off the tumbler?

A soft punch, such as a piece of all thread ground or filed into a small square tip, works well. It should be softer than the hardened tumbler so it does not damage it, and the threads actually help it grip the tumbler shaft.

What kind of stock finish would have been historically used on maple rifles in the 1700s colonies?

Iron nitrate stain was used a lot historically, made from nitric acid alone or nitric acid combined with dissolved iron in water, though it was not universal. As far as topcoats, finishes varied but a linseed oil based varnish was common, and it would not have been equivalent to today's hardware store linseed oil, which is not recommended for use now either.

What kind of tap should be used to thread the holes for the lock bolts?

A two-flute spiral point tap, sometimes called a gun tap, works well for this because it is stronger than a typical hardware store four-flute tap and pushes the chip forward as it cuts, which is better suited to this kind of work.

What kind of tap works best for the lock bolt hole?

A two-flute gun tap, also called a spiral point or pusher tap, works well because its tip curls the chip and pushes it out the front. A standard four-flute hardware store tap will also work if run a bit more slowly.

What kind of vise does Jim use for gun work, and why does it work well?

Jim uses a heavy cast iron layout table with a vise built around a shot put ball, which lets it pivot and swivel into different positions. It also moves up and down on a pin so the height can be adjusted, and it has a front swivel jaw so it can clamp onto tapered barrel sections. He built this arrangement himself, custom and handmade.

What kinds of wood work well with iron nitrate stain?

Maple is the primary wood used with iron nitrate. Ash also takes the stain very well, though it is not as readily available. Cherry tends to turn nearly black with iron nitrate, and walnut can turn very dark as well.

What lighting setup helps you spot defects while sanding a rifle stock?

Use an articulating arm light and move it constantly at a low angle relative to the stock so it casts shadows. Casting shadows this way reveals defects that would otherwise be hidden, so you can find and fix them before the piece is finished and defects can no longer be corrected.

What lubrication should be used when reassembling a flintlock?

A little oil or grease on the tumbler shaft is good when putting the lock back together. For the mainspring and the tip of the frizzen, a grease such as a molybdenum-containing extreme pressure grease works better than oil, since those areas see a lot of pressure.

What metal casting methods does Kibler's use for detailed parts, and why not die casting?

Kibler's has used investment casting for detailed parts, which gives good results, especially in silver. Die casting has not been used because tooling costs for real production are very high, and it is unclear whether it works well with higher temperature metals like brass.

What metal finish is recommended for a hunting rifle?

It depends on personal preference for patina. If you like a patina finish that develops oxidation and darkening over time, options like Jax products or leaving metal in the white and letting it age work well. If you do not want any patina at all, more durable finishes like rust browning or rust bluing are good choices, though rust browning is not always historically correct depending on the period represented.

What methods can I use to sand a ramrod down so it slides through the pipes?

One method is to hold a block of wood wrapped in sandpaper, starting around 150 grit, and work the rod down until it slides freely, checking fit frequently since the whole rod is usually only slightly oversized. A card scraper with a hooked edge can also be used and leaves a more traditional, slightly textured look instead of a straight sanded finish.

What oil finish is used after staining with iron nitrate?

Tried and True oil varnish mix thinned with turpentine is used. The turpentine thins it down so it can penetrate the wood more easily.

What sandpaper grits are recommended for finishing a rifle stock?

For sanding wood, a good approach is to start around 150 grit and work up to about 320 grit, using 150, 220, and 320 in sequence. For polishing metal parts, wet dry sandpaper can start around 100 to 120 grit and work up to about 400 grit, and it helps to file metal parts with a fine file first before sanding.

What sandpaper grits should I use to sand a rifle stock?

Jim recommends working through 150, 220, and then 320 grit sandpaper, in that order, going over the entire stock at each grit before moving to the next. Subsequent grits take a lot less time than the first pass at 150 grit, since most of the material removal happens early.

What screwdriver do I need for the narrow screw slots on a flintlock, like the one holding the hammer to the tumbler?

Those screw slots are very narrow, so options include opening the slot slightly with a knife file, finding a very narrow screwdriver, or grinding down a regular screwdriver on a belt sander or grinder to fit the slot.

What should I be careful of when filing near a screw hole on a brass part?

Be careful not to file directly over a screw hole, since it is easy to wallow the hole out, causing material to dive down toward it. File around the hole instead of across it.

What should I do if a pin won't go into a ramrod pipe or similar hole?

Do not force it by continuing to hammer, since a pin can act like a nail and create its own hole, causing a blowout. Check that the holes line up first, use a clamp to hold the part in place while starting the pin, and if it will not go in from one side, try turning the part around and driving it from the other side.

What should I do if a ramrod pipe pin will not go in?

Do not keep hammering on a pin that will not go in, since forcing it can damage the pipe or stock. Stop and figure out why it is not going in first, such as checking alignment, before continuing.

What should I do if my ram rod arrives a little bent or breaks during fitting?

A ram rod that is bent, but not badly, can usually be straightened by bending it firmly the other way. If it breaks in the process, it was not sound to begin with and Kibler's will replace it.

What should I do if the keys on my Hawken hook breech system become loose over time?

If the keys loosen over time, there is an easy fix: tap the small loop the key passes through, or tap the posts of the loop that come up, to compress the metal slightly. This tightens the fit so the keys hold snug again.

What should I do if the set triggers do not have enough free play against the sear?

Remove the trigger assembly and file down the tops of the trigger bars so they do not contact the sear when reinstalled, creating the needed free play. This can be checked by pulling the rear trigger back, filing a small amount, then reinstalling and rechecking the play.

What should I do to the ends of pins before installing them?

Cut the pin a little longer than needed, square the ends, then round or break the corner on the end. This rounded end is important because a square edge is more likely to chip or break the stock as the pin goes in and out.

What should I keep in mind about the wood level around the trigger guard when finishing the stock?

If the trigger guard tends to work its way out of the inlet, you can bend the guard down slightly at the front so it holds itself down with spring tension. Any final leveling of the wood around the guard inlet should wait until the guard is removed from the stock, since it can sit a little below grade until then.

What should I keep in mind when driving pins so wood doesn't pop out on the other side?

Do not treat a pin like a nail. If it is not going in, stop and figure out why rather than continuing to hammer, since pins can create their own hole if forced. Make sure everything, such as a ramrod pipe, is fully seated before driving a pin, since an unseated part can steer the pin off course, and it helps to round the ends of pins with a slight lead so the corners are not sharp. When finishing, avoid letting finish clog the pin holes, and if pins end up too tight, chuck the pin in a cordless drill and polish it down slightly with fine sandpaper.

What should I look for in a good ramrod before fitting it?

A good ramrod should have straight grain that runs along the axis of the rod. If the grain runs out at an angle relative to the rod's centerline, it creates a weak point that can break more easily, so ramrods are inspected carefully for this before use.

What should you do if the trigger guard does not quite line up with its inlets?

Trigger guards are straightened before shipping, but a little tweaking is not unusual. The guard can be clamped in a vise and bent by hand in whichever direction is needed until the ends line up with the inlets.

What should you use to help buttplate screws go into their holes more easily?

Putting a small amount of beeswax on the screws helps them go in more easily, even when a pilot hole has already been started.

What size file should I use when polishing brass hardware?

Use the largest file that is comfortable for the operation. Beginners often reach for a small needle file to be safer, but that takes far longer and does not give as good a result, so it is better to start with a bigger tool and work down in size as needed.

What size hole should I drill to pin the ramrod tip on my Woodsrunner?

A drill of about 0.070 inch works for the finish nail used to cross pin the ramrod tip, or a 1/16 inch drill can be used if a 0.070 bit is not available, filing the pin down slightly to fit.

What stain and finish would you recommend for a first time builder?

Iron nitrate stain is generally recommended because it is traditional, looks good, and is long lasting and light fast. For finish, permalyn sealer is a fast drying and durable finish that most beginners have good success with, while tried and true oil varnish is a more traditional linseed oil based finish that takes longer to dry and needs sunlight to cure well.

What stain does Kibler's recommend for curly maple?

Kibler's recommends iron nitrate for curly maple, also known as aquafortis or ferric nitrate. It is a traditional stain made from a combination of nitric acid, water, and iron, and it works very well on curly figure.

What stain is used to finish ash rifle stocks?

Ash stocks are finished with iron nitrate, the same stain used on curly maple. A single coat can already bring out a nice warm color, and additional coats will darken it further.

What stain works well on ash rifle stocks?

Ash stains beautifully with iron nitrate, sometimes referred to as aqua fortis, which gives it a very nice color.

What technique should I use when filing a large flat surface like a buttplate?

Slide the file along at an angle as you push it rather than pushing straight across. Filing straight across a large surface tends to cut grooves and leaves an uneven result, while sliding the file and alternating direction (cross filing) keeps the surface flat and uniform.

What tool do you use to scrape a rifle stock, and how is it sharpened?

A scraper is a thin piece of spring steel, hardened to roughly the mid-40s on the Rockwell C scale, and a thin scraper around fifteen to twenty thousandths of an inch works well for gunstock work. To sharpen it, true up the edge square to the face with a file or stone, then draw a hardened steel rod across the edge at a slight angle to raise a small burr that does the actual cutting.

What tool is used to remove the mainspring from a flintlock?

A mainspring vise is used to remove the mainspring. The hook of the vise goes over the top of the mainspring, and the lower leg of the clamp is slid as far out toward the edge as possible to mimic the force on the spring when in use and spread the load evenly. Vise grips or similar tools are not recommended for this.

What tools are needed to sand and scrape a rifle stock?

Basic tools include quality woodworking sandpaper in 150, 220, and 320 grit, a sanding block or a rubber sanding jigger to wrap paper around, a single-cut mill file, and thin card or cabinet scrapers, ideally around 15 to 20 thousandths thick for flexibility and a fine cut.

What tools are used to remove the background when relief carving a longrifle stock?

A flat chisel, often about a half inch wide, is used for larger open areas, while a skew chisel, which is shaped like a knife with a double bevel, works well for tighter spots near a design's features. An optivisor (magnifier) also helps with careful, close-up carving work.

What tools are used to smooth the background of a relief carving?

Most of the material is removed with chisels, then files can be used to true up larger open areas, and a scraper or Scotch-Brite pad can finish the surface. Riffler files are useful in tight spots but should be used sparingly rather than relied on heavily.

What tools can I use to outline a carving design on a rifle stock?

There are several methods for outlining a carving. A knife can outline designs with one tool, but it tends to follow the grain and requires a lot of skill and hand strength to control. A V-shaped parting tool is fast and needs only one tool, but it fights the grain on one side or the other and is tricky to sharpen and less suited to fine detail. Gouges give very crisp, detailed lines through a stabbing method but require many tools that are expensive to buy and maintain. A narrow chisel, roughly a sixteenth to three thirty-seconds of an inch wide with a rounded, screwdriver-like shape, is versatile and cheap, and can be pushed by hand, though it can leave jagged lines if you are not careful.

What tools can be used to outline a carving?

A carving outline can be cut with a knife, a V tool, or a set of gouges with different sweeps stabbed in along the line. Using multiple gouges gives good control but may require 12 to 15 different sweeps to do a thorough job, while a V tool or knife needs only one tool but is harder to control.

What tools do I need to assemble a Hawken rifle kit?

Assembly does not require many tools or a large investment. A few chisels are useful, such as a half inch and a quarter inch chisel and a skew chisel sharpened like a knife (an X-acto knife works too). An 8 inch mill file, a half round file, a flat file, and a round file (used as a punch) cover most fitting tasks. A couple of screwdrivers, a brass hammer with a nylon tip, vise grips, and a sanding block with sandpaper round out the kit.

What tools do I need to disassemble a lock, and what should I watch out for?

The main tool needed is a mainspring vise, along with a way to remove the tumbler. When knocking out the tumbler, make sure the lock plate is well supported and that the vise is closed on the tumbler as close as possible before knocking it out, or the plate can be bent.

When fitting a buttplate, do you always need to remove wood to close a gap?

No. Instead of always removing wood from the stock, the buttplate itself can be bent or twisted to better match the shape of the stock and close gaps.

When should I install the pins that hold the barrel keys captive?

The pins should not be installed until the last step of the build, after everything is sanded, since the barrel often needs to be disassembled multiple times during the build process.

When should the barrel pins be trimmed to length during a build?

It is best to leave the barrel pins long until the build is essentially complete, since it is always easier to trim them down later than to deal with pins cut too short. They should end up flush with or just below the surface of the stock.

When should the metal hardware be polished during a build?

Hardware can technically be polished at any point after the stock is fully sanded, but if the rifle will be carved, it's better to carve the gun first and polish the hardware at the end. It's also fine to stain and finish the stock before polishing the hardware.

When should you apply bone black during the finishing process?

It is best to let the first coat of finish dry well, generally a day or two, before applying bone black pigment.

Where should I check first if the lock bolster on my mountain rifle won't seat against the barrel?

Check the area right below the barrel first, since there is sometimes a little extra wood there that keeps the bottom edge of the bolster from coming down far enough. Removing that small bit of wood often lets the bolster seat properly.

Where should I clamp the stock when fitting a trigger guard with thin lock panel moldings?

Instead of clamping and tapping near the lock panel moldings, which can break out because they are thin (even though historically correct), it is better to clamp the stock back at the wrist when fitting the trigger guard.

Where should double set triggers be positioned relative to the sear during a build?

There are two trigger bars, one for the rear trigger and one for the front trigger. If you pull the front trigger back slightly, the rear trigger is pushed forward slightly, and the point where the sear bars cross gives an approximate guideline for where the triggers should sit relative to the sear, though it can move a bit from there.

Where should you darken a stock with bone black?

Darken areas that would naturally be dark on an aged rifle, such as around the comb, underneath the cheek piece, and around the lock panels. Bone black also looks good worked around carving, since it helps the carving pop from the background.

Which end of the barrel tang should come out first when removing the barrel from the stock?

When removing the barrel and tang, the back end of the tang should come out of the stock first. Trying to pull it out from the muzzle end first is not recommended because it can cause interference issues with the area directly in front of the boss near the tang.

Who designed the carving pattern on the carved Woodsrunner?

Jim Kibler designed the carving the same way he would design carving for any custom longrifle, drawing on his background making high end custom longrifles. It is inspired by original work from various places but combined into his own compilation rather than a copy of one original pattern.

Why are the lock panels on the Fowler kit made a certain way?

The lock panels, the areas of wood surrounding the lock, are made very small, thin, and rounded to match a characteristic of original English guns that many reproductions miss. The locks themselves are made with CNC equipment, which improves consistency, quality, and function.

Why are the pin holes through the under lugs elongated into slots instead of left as round holes?

Elongating the pin holes into slots with a jeweler's saw lets the stock move independently of the barrel as wood expands and contracts with humidity changes and as the barrel heats and cools. Without that room to move, stress can build up between the stock and barrel and can even shift the rifle's point of impact.

Why are the pins on parts like the side plate left long when the kit ships?

Pins are left long so builders can pull them out easily during assembly and disassembly. Once assembly is finished, the pins are trimmed to the proper length.

Why are the screw holes in the nose cap sometimes not perfectly aligned?

The holes are pre-drilled but do not always line up exactly, and they are intentionally offset a little to help pull the cap into place as the screws are tightened. The cap can also be twisted slightly to help it seat.

Why are the under lug pin holes sometimes slotted rather than round?

Slotting the pin holes in the under lugs allows for expansion, contraction, and movement of the wood and barrel with temperature changes. Lugs farther out toward the muzzle see more movement, so they benefit most from slotting, though it can be done on all of them.

Why can fitting a fowler buttplate be difficult for the average builder?

Investment castings can come straight from the foundry slightly twisted, so a buttplate often needs to be bent and adjusted to fit a stock properly, which is a difficult task for someone without experience.

Why can't I just install the trigger directly into the stock by itself?

The trigger cannot be dropped directly into its mortise on its own because the fit is too tight. Instead, pull out the trigger plate, put the trigger together with the plate, and install both at the same time, then tap the plate back into place.

Why did Kibler's invest in a metalworking CNC machine for parts?

Machining parts is more precise than investment casting, though it can be more difficult to accomplish for irregular shapes typical of 18th and 19th century gun parts. Kibler's added a metalworking CNC machine and has been producing more parts on it over time, including triggers and a breech plug and tang, because the machined parts fit CNC-machined stocks very precisely.

Why did Kibler's move from cast nose caps and butt plates to machined ones on the Woodsrunner?

Castings can vary and often require fitting work by the builder. To get a tighter, more consistent fit and finish, Kibler's machines the nose cap from bar stock and the butt plate from a sand cast brass preform, rather than relying on castings alone.

Why do investment cast trigger guards vary in length and fit?

Because the trigger guard is a long part, and investment castings can vary somewhat in size, Kibler's fits the inlet on the conservative side. Variations are corrected during fitting, for example by tapping the finial down and trimming it, or by hitting the finial area to drive it back into place, since it will bend the bow of the guard rather than just move a single point.

Why do some parts, like the butt plate and trigger guard, come pre-installed on the Woodsrunner stock?

The butt plate is left in place because it is used to locate and drill the bottom screw hole, which could not be added during machining. The trigger guard and entry pipe are pre-installed because they can be bent slightly and are sometimes tricky for builders to fit, so Kibler's takes care of getting them started.

Why do the dark curl stripes in maple absorb more stain and oil than the rest of the wood?

The dark stripes correspond to end grain areas created by the wavy figure in curly maple, and end grain naturally soaks up stain and finishing oil more readily than the surrounding straight grain areas.

Why do the edges of a lock plate need filing before it will fit into the mortise?

Lock plates arrive with an as-cast finish that is relatively smooth but not trued up, so the edges need to be filed slightly, along with a small bevel of only a few degrees, to help the plate seat properly and pull in and out of the mortise more easily.

Why do the forward ramrod pipes need to be marked before removing them?

It is a good idea to mark the forward ramrod pipes so that each one goes back into the same location and in the same orientation it came from.

Why do the tabs on the SMR ramrod pipes sometimes need to be filed down?

The tabs on the ramrod pipes are made a little longer than needed, so they can interfere with the barrel once the pipe is seated. Filing or sanding the tab down a bit resolves the interference so the pipe seats fully in its inlet.

Why do the under lugs sometimes need to be trimmed down after they are installed on the barrel?

The under lugs are made to a uniform height to reduce the number of different parts, but some locations on the stock need a shorter lug than others. Once the barrel is placed in the stock, you check which lugs extend too far into the ramrod hole and trim those down until they sit flush.

Why do you heat the wood after applying iron nitrate stain?

Heating triggers the chemical reaction that changes the stain from a dull gray-green color to its final orangish brown color with red highlights. A heat gun on a medium setting works well for this. Traditionally builders used a forge or a heated bar of iron instead. A hair dryer will not get hot enough to work, and the wood needs to be heated enough to see a dramatic color change, without scorching it.

Why do you scribe a line around the patch box lid before finishing the stock?

Scribing a line around the edge of the box lid marks where the wood underneath the lid must be flat, since that area needs to stay a flat plane while the surrounding wood is blended up to it. This scribed line gives a visual guide during sanding.

Why does Kibler's CNC-machined lock fit so well into the Colonial rifle kit's stock inlet?

Because both the stock inlet and the lock are cut and machined with CNC equipment, the lock can drop into the inlet without any additional fitting work and without gaps. The bolster thickness and its parallel relationship to the inside of the plate are also tightly controlled, and the lock bolt holes come pre-drilled.

Why does Kibler's cut stock blanks small instead of using large oversized blanks?

Cutting blanks small and close to the pattern allows Kibler's to get significantly more usable blanks out of a given log or board, sometimes half again as many or more compared to suppliers who sell large oversized blanks. Since stocks are eventually profiled out on a bandsaw anyway, there's no need to buy or use edged, oversized boards, and live-edge boards give a better yield.

Why does Kibler's let stock blanks sit around before using them?

Kibler's buys wood in board form and blanks it out slightly oversized to their patterns, then lets the blanks sit for a while before use. This allows them to acclimate to the shop environment and helps relieve stress in the wood, so it is a good practice to keep a lot of blanks on hand.

Why does Kibler's machine the lock plate even though it is a difficult part to machine?

The plate is the foundation that all the other lock parts reference and fit against, so it needs to be precise for the whole lock to go together and function well, even though machining the entire plate from a solid block takes significant time and material removal.

Why does Kibler's not recommend shooting round ball out of the 16 gauge fowler?

It is a matter of margin rather than outright danger. The fowler has a fairly thin wall barrel, around 50 thousandths or a bit less, which will whip more and be less accurate and stable with round ball, though pressure at the breech is much lower with shot than with ball so it is not considered a safety issue outright. Kibler's still prefers to encourage the 20 gauge for round ball shooting.

Why does Kibler's use a CNC process to machine gun stocks instead of duplicators?

CNC machining produces stocks that are extremely tight in tolerance, very repeatable, and very finely finished, which is a huge step up from older duplicator processes. Developing that CNC process is time consuming and the equipment is expensive, but once it is worked out it produces much better results than more antiquated methods.

Why does a rifle stock need to have its grain raised before finishing?

Sanding, filing, and shaping can compress the wood grain like crushed straws, so a stock can look smooth but still fuzz up once water or finish is applied. Raising the grain ahead of time, by wetting the stock and sanding again after it dries, prevents that fuzzing from happening later during actual finishing.

Why does a sharp chisel matter so much when trimming wood to fit the butt plate?

A dull chisel will tear the wood, especially on maple, rather than cutting it cleanly, so a sharp chisel is important for getting a clean, gap-free fit between the butt plate and the stock.

Why does a stock need to be heated after applying iron nitrate?

Heating triggers the chemical reaction that changes the stain from a grayish green color to a warm reddish brown or orange tone. A heat gun on a low setting, held about an inch from the wood, is used to bring on the color change without scorching.

Why does curly ash soak up more stain and oil than plainer ash?

Curl in wood shows a lot of end grain, and end grain naturally absorbs stain and finishing oil much more readily than straight grain areas.

Why does curly maple darken unevenly when stained with tannic acid?

Curly maple has a wavy grain, so a flat surface cuts across the grain at different angles. End grain areas soak up the tannic acid and stain much more readily than the straighter grain areas, and this uneven absorption is what produces the increased contrast in the figure.

Why does iron nitrate stain need to be heated after it is applied?

After iron nitrate is applied to the wood, it should sit and dry for about 15 to 20 minutes, during which it looks somewhat greenish. Heating it with a heat gun changes the chemical makeup of the stain particles, producing a dramatic color shift. You want to heat it enough to trigger that color change without scorching the wood.

Why does the metal on my rifle sometimes sit proud of the wood in winter after fitting perfectly in summer?

This happens because wood changes dimensions as the surrounding ambient moisture changes with the seasons. It is a normal characteristic of wood and can only be avoided by keeping the rifle in a consistent humidity environment.

Why does the ramrod get a small hollow cut into its tip?

A small hollow is cut into the end of the ramrod tip using a sharp gouge to help seat the ball when loading, by giving the rod a shaped surface to push against the ball. This step is optional but is done on the build.

Why does the ramrod supplied with a kit sometimes not fit the entry pipe hole?

The rods used do vary slightly in size, so sometimes they need to be sanded or scraped down a bit to fit properly. The area where the rod enters the stock is generally tapered, and the ramrod tip is slightly smaller than the rod diameter, so it is expected that the builder will taper the wood to match the metal tip using a sanding block, file, or scraper.

Why does the stock still look dull right after heating the iron nitrate stain?

At that stage no finish has been applied yet, so the wood has color but has not developed the pearl or chatoyance that curly maple shows once oil finish is put on.

Why does the trigger guard need filing before it fits into the stock?

The trigger guard is an investment casting that comes back from the foundry bent and twisted, so it needs filing and straightening to fit the stock properly. The edges that go into the wood also need filing because the way the part is molded gives it draft in the wrong direction, meaning the area entering the wood first is actually the largest rather than the smallest, so it must be filed down and given a bit of backdraft, along with removing flash left from the mold seam.

Why does the trigger sometimes need material removed before it fits the lock?

The top of the trigger sometimes needs to be filed or ground down slightly so it mates properly with the sear. The goal is a small amount of play between the trigger and sear where the trigger bar contacts the sear, especially at half cock, since too much pressure on the trigger at half cock is undesirable even though some pressure at rest is fine.

Why does the wood sit slightly proud of the metal parts on a Hawken kit before finishing?

It is intentional so the wood can be sanded down flush to the metal for a perfect fit. Machining wood can tear slightly in places, so leaving a bit of wood above the metal gives room to sand it to a clean, tight fit.

Why does the wood sometimes sit a little above the metal parts on a Colonial kit before finishing?

It is normal for a small amount of wood to sit slightly above metal parts like the tang, buttplate, or entry pipe before finishing. The amount varies a little from kit to kit. This wood needs to be filed or sanded flush with the metal so nothing protrudes.

Why doesn't Kibler's offer trigger guards pre-fit with no fitting required at all?

Offering guards with no fitting at all would introduce more variation in production and tends to generate extra customer questions and calls about parts seeming not to fit right, even when nothing is actually wrong. Kibler's found it works better to head those issues off by fitting the guard partway and leaving the rest as a manageable, well-guided step for the builder.

Why doesn't Kibler's use a form or press to straighten buttplate castings instead of doing it by hand?

Forms or presses do not work well for this because the metal has spring back, meaning it does not hold the exact shape once pressure is released. Careful hand bending and adjustment is still the more reliable method.

Why doesn't the ramrod fit right out of the box?

Ramrods likely will not slide into the ramrod hole right out of the box and need to be tapered or sanded down in the area that enters the stock. Do not drill out the ramrod hole to fit the rod, since that risks damaging the stock. Sanding with coarse paper or using a scraper are standard ways to taper the rod to fit.

Why is CNC relief carving on a rifle stock challenging?

Relief carving on CNC-machined stocks is tricky because it involves machining a 3D part from many different angles and getting all the resulting surfaces to blend together well. Some of the difficulty also comes from the part's design model rather than the machining strategy itself.

Why is a bark inclusion or small crack in a maple stock blank usually not a big concern?

Minor bark inclusions are typically stabilized with a bit of cyanoacrylate (CA), or acrylic, glue in the cracks, and this does not meaningfully weaken the stock. These issues are common enough that they can be addressed without compromising the final piece.

Why is a drill bit sized just to the hole used to squeeze barrel pin holes through the stock?

Using a bit that just passes through the existing hole in the wood, barrel tang, or under lug locates the new hole exactly on center with the hole already present, so the drill does not wander or enlarge the hole. The drill should feed straight in line with the existing hole rather than being pushed to one side.

Why is grain direction so important when carving a stock?

Wood generally cuts cleanly in one grain direction and will tear or pull out if cut against the grain. A useful way to check is that cuts made with the grain look shiny, while cuts made against the grain tend to look grayer, since cutting against the grain pulls the tool into the wood rather than slicing it.

Why is it better to work large carving areas down together rather than finishing one section completely before moving on

Certain design features act as natural control points that limit how deep or how far you can carve in a given spot. It works better to rough down large areas toward those control points first, then come back to refine and deepen specific sections, rather than finishing one area in isolation.

Why is it important that the lock bolster contacts the barrel with no gap?

The lock bolster needs to make contact with the side of the barrel because if there is a gap, powder can get behind the lock and that creates a problem. Wood is removed carefully in that area, guided by transfer color, until the bolster seats fully against the barrel.

Why is it important to use a screwdriver that fits the screw slot exactly on a lock?

Using a screwdriver that does not properly fit the slot creates a good chance of damaging the screw heads. If a screwdriver's tip is too thick, it can be ground, stoned, or filed down, if the material is soft enough, so it matches the slot better.

Why is it normal for a new ram rod to need fitting to the stock?

Ram rods are designed slightly oversized on purpose and need to be fit to each gun. The diameter can be reduced with a file, a card scraper, or sandpaper wrapped around the rod, and rods will typically taper down slightly near where they enter the stock for easier insertion and removal, matching how original rifles were made.

Why is lighting important when sanding a rifle stock?

Directional, movable light is important because it reveals defects and tool marks by casting shadows, while fill light such as fluorescent or LED overhead lighting hides those imperfections. You want the stock to look as bad as possible while sanding so that in normal light afterward it looks as good as possible.

Why is lighting so important when working on a rifle stock?

A direct, movable source of light is one of the most important tools for stock work because it lets you cast shadows, and casting shadows is how you read the surface shapes and see what you are doing. Fluorescent fill light is not very useful for this. Jim recommends a light with a long reach, like an articulating arm lamp, rather than small clip-on lights.

Why is quarter-sawn curly maple harder to carve than other grain orientations?

On the quarter sawn face, the growth rings run perpendicular to the surface, which makes the wood prone to chipping. Cutting curly wood in this orientation takes lighter cuts and a sharp tool to avoid tear out.

Why is relief carving difficult to program for CNC machining?

The tool used to surface a stock has too large a radius to produce refined carving on its own, so finer tools are needed to come back in and sharpen up edges and make the carving crisp. Programming the tool paths for this relief carving is more of a challenge than the rest of the stock and takes significant time to refine.

Why is scraping preferred over sandpaper for cleaning up carving backgrounds?

Scraping with a chisel works a bit better than sandpaper for cleaning up carving backgrounds because sandpaper is hard to get into nooks and crannies and can clog quickly. That said, sandpaper can still be used if it is more comfortable for the builder.

Why is the breech area of the barrel channel rounded when a stock first comes off the CNC machine?

Router bits do not cut perfectly square inside corners, so the breech end of the barrel channel comes off the machine slightly rounded. Kibler's squares this up by hand with a chisel before the stock ships, rather than leaving that task for the customer.

Why is the entry pipe on the Colonial kit hard to inlet on other rifles but not on Kibler's kits?

The entry pipe, which is the rearmost ramrod pipe, can normally be very difficult and time consuming to inlet on a rifle. On the Colonial kit, the inlet is fine enough that the entry pipe typically goes in with little to no wood removal needed.

Why is the finish on the foot of the tumbler so important?

The foot of the tumbler is machined very slowly because that is the area the main spring rides against, and that finish is critical to how the lock feels. It is not necessary for how the lock functions, but any irregularities in that surface will make the lock feel rough.

Why is the tapped screw hole in the nose cap offset from the hole in the stock?

The offset is intentional. As the screw is tightened, it draws the nose cap back onto the stock tighter, so seeing a slight offset is normal and not a defect.

Why should I be careful handling the stock before the butt plate is fitted?

The toe of the stock comes to a fairly sharp corner and is quite fragile at that stage, so the gun should not be bumped against anything or the toe can be damaged.

Why should chisels and other sharp tools not be left lying on the workbench?

Leaving a sharp edge on the bench where metal chips are present can cause it to become magnetized, picking up tiny bits of metal without you realizing it. If that edge is then used in wood, it can damage the wood and ruin the edge. Keeping chisels off the bench in a separate holder avoids this problem and also prevents them from banging into other tools and getting chipped.

Why should the holes for the lock bolts be drilled through the stock rather than off of it?

Drilling and tapping the lock bolt holes through the existing holes already in the stock keeps everything properly aligned. Trying to drill and tap the lock plate separately, outside the stock, tends to cause alignment problems.

Why should the patch box lid fit with a slight bit of play instead of a perfectly tight fit?

A patch box lid that fits too tightly can be a problem because changes in humidity, such as being out in the rain, can cause the stock to swell and lock the lid in place so it cannot be removed. The dovetail is opened up slightly so there is a small amount of wiggle room to allow for that wood movement.

Why should there be a small gap on either side of the under lugs in the barrel channel?

A small gap is left on either side of each under lug so the stock has room to expand and contract as humidity changes over time, without binding against the lugs.

Why should you always file the end of a cut pin before installing it?

After cutting a piece of pin stock to length, the end should always be filed to a generous lead, or taper, so the pin can find and enter its hole more easily when tapped into place.

Why should you avoid rounding over the corners of a barrel flat while draw filing?

Rounding over the corners of a barrel flat, including the back corner near the breech, changes the intended crisp geometry of the barrel. Using short, careful strokes and keeping the file flat on the barrel helps preserve those sharp corners.

Why shouldn't I dry fire a percussion Hawken rifle without something on the nipple?

You should never drop the hammer directly on the nipple. Hold the hammer back or place something like a piece of wood or rubber on the nipple to cushion it before dropping the hammer, to avoid damaging the nipple.

Why shouldn't I just drill a pin hole through the metal part freehand using the hole already in the wood?

Drilling freehand can work, but it is very hard to get the drill bit lined up on axis with the existing hole, and chips coming out of the drill as it cuts the metal tend to wallow out the hole. Using the drill guide bushing keeps the bit centered and avoids oversizing the hole in the wood.

Why shouldn't I polish the metal parts before assembling the rifle?

Fitting a gun together well requires filing and adjusting metal and wood together, such as leveling the butt plate and toe plate to the stock. Polishing parts beforehand removes material you may still need for fitting and is a recipe for problems.

Why shouldn't you stain the inlets on a rifle stock?

Inlets were traditionally never stained on original rifles, and there is no visual need to stain an area that will not be seen. Staining the inlets can also cause the stain to react with the metal parts that fit into them, which can create problems.

Why shouldn't you use hardware store linseed oil as a stock finish?

Jim recommends against using ordinary hardware store linseed oil because he considers it a poor product for gun stock finishing. Instead he uses tried and true oil varnish, a traditional formulation based on linseed oil with rosin added, which gives better results.

Why use a brass hammer instead of a steel hammer when building a rifle kit?

A brass hammer with a nylon tip is less likely to dent metal parts when tapping them into place compared to a steel hammer, although it can still mar a part if used carelessly. A small hammer like this is also commonly used for driving in the pins that hold various parts onto the rifle.

Why won't the lock bolt thread into the lock on my kit?

The most common reason a lock bolt will not thread in is that the barrel is not fully seated in the stock, meaning it is not pushed all the way back against the breech and all the way down in the barrel channel. Because there is a cross hole through the breech plug's bolster, an unseated barrel pushes the bolt off course. Spotting compound and magnification can help confirm the barrel is properly seated. If the barrel is seated correctly, check that the lock is not canted or out of its inlet, then use the supplied tap to chase the threads as if it were the bolt, and as a last resort file or slightly enlarge the hole through the breech plug bolster if there is minor misalignment.

Why won't the ramrod fit through the pipes on my kit right out of the box?

Ramrods are dowel rods and are not perfectly sized, so they sometimes need to be sanded down a bit before they will pass through the ramrod pipes and into the stock. This is normal and does not mean anything is wrong with the kit.

Why would I want to remove the barrel on my Hawken rifle?

The main reason to remove the barrel is for cleaning. Because the nipple has a very small hole and does not siphon water well, you pull the nipple out, then stick the breech end of the barrel in a bucket of water and pull the rod up and down to clean the barrel easily.

Why would you use tannic acid along with iron nitrate on curly maple?

Tannic acid can enhance the figure by increasing the contrast between the different grain orientations in curly maple, making the stripes appear bolder and darker. The tradeoff is that it tends to eliminate some of the warm tones that iron nitrate alone produces, so warmth has to be added back afterward.

Will I still need to work on the trigger guard after Kibler's pre-fits it to my stock?

Yes. Kibler's fits the trigger guard to the stock ahead of time to make the difficult bending and fitting step easier for customers, but the builder still needs to remove the guard to install the trigger, polish the guard, and install the thumb piece, which goes in from below the trigger guard.

Will a machined Woodsrunner buttplate require fitting to the stock?

No wood removal is intended to be required. The stock has a small raised area, sometimes called the hump or hill, that fixes the buttplate's left to right position so a builder is not relying on the wood screw for that alignment.

Will the barrel need fitting to drop into the stock?

Usually the barrel goes in with little to no fitting, but this can vary. Since wood can move slightly depending on the moisture content of the builder's environment compared to Kibler's shop, small amounts of fitting may occasionally be needed.

Will the lock need to be fitted into the stock inlet?

The lock may go into the inlet without any adjustment, but it also might need a small amount of fitting. Kibler's intentionally errs on the side of inlets being slightly too tight, since gaps between wood and metal are not acceptable on a finely crafted longrifle.

Can I bring my own wood blank to Kibler's to have it made into a stock?

Yes, customers regularly bring their own wood, such as a nice piece or one from family property, and Kibler's will make it into a gunstock if it is suitable. Even wood that is not yet dry can be run through Kibler's kiln to finish drying it.

Does Kibler's offer anything to help a builder learn to carve their rifle?

Kibler's offers an introductory carving kit that includes steps and a cast carving example. The cast example is one of the more useful pieces, since it lets a builder actually look at the carving in three dimensions rather than trying to interpret it from a book.

Does Kibler's offer shop tours?

Kibler's does not offer official scheduled shop tours, but if someone happens to be in the area and calls ahead, they try to make time for a visit when possible.

Is Kibler's rifle kits a good option for someone who has never built a gun kit before?

Yes. Many first-time builders with no prior gun-building experience and limited space and tools have successfully completed a Kibler's kit.

Is there a good way to learn engraving techniques today?

There are a lot of talented contemporary engravers doing excellent, if stylistically different, work compared to historic longrifle engraving, and their techniques can be a good resource to learn from. Most people learn faster using pneumatic or power gravers rather than a hammer and chisel, but studying original longrifle work is still strongly recommended for anyone wanting to engrave in that period style.

What are the KR photo sets that Kibler's sells?

The KR photo sets come from the Kentucky Rifle Association, a group of collectors whose mission is to promote the art of original Kentucky, or Pennsylvania, long rifles. At their annual show they put together a president's display of some of the best original long rifles and photograph them in detail, and those photo sets, sold on a USB stick, let you zoom in and see fine details of these original guns. Kibler's sells them to help support the KR without marking up the price.

What is the Contemporary Long Rifle Association (CLA)?

The CLA, or Contemporary Long Rifle Association, promotes people who build muzzleloading rifles both from blanks and from kits, and has supported gun builders for decades. It holds an annual show in Lexington, Kentucky, featuring many of the best contemporary rifles being built today.

What is the best way to learn carving designs for a longrifle?

The best advice is to study original examples, ideally in person, but published sources and books with carving examples work well too. When learning, it is best to pick original examples you like and copy them, since trying to develop your own designs without that background usually does not work out.

Can I visit the Kibler's shop in person?

The shop is a production environment, not a retail store, so drop-in visits are generally discouraged because they interfere with getting work done. Kibler's has considered holding an open house or appreciation day, possibly timed around a Kentucky Rifle Association event, for people to visit.

Did Jim Kibler have building experience before starting the kit business?

Yes. Jim built a lot of custom rifles before starting the kit business, which he says was important to being able to run a business that makes good kits. That hands-on experience gave him a clear sense of what makes a good rifle.

Did all rifles from the Hawken era use a hook breech system?

Not all rifles from that era were made with hook breech systems, but some were, and hook breech systems were typical of the era the Hawken represents. Hawken guns often, or probably typically, had a hook breech system.

Did an original Hawken rifle inspire the design of Kibler's Hawken kit?

No single original inspired it. Jim looked broadly at published original Hawken rifles for ideas and also studied contemporary work, particularly by Louis Parker, who elevated the style of Hawken rifles while still keeping them recognizable.

Did original longrifles always have a brass plate on the end of the patch box lid?

No. Some original guns had a brass plate on the end of the patch box lid, while others simply left the wood end grain exposed with no metal plate. If a build uses just wood at the end, the wood is filed flush with the buttplate instead of removing extra wood for a plate.

Does Kibler's attend gun shows like the CLA?

Kibler's does not currently attend shows regularly. Packing up fragile gun stocks and traveling takes away from staying in the shop and filling orders, and shows are a lot of work for a company Kibler's size, so Kibler's has chosen to focus on online communication with customers instead.

Does Kibler's manufacture fully finished, ready-to-shoot rifles instead of kits?

No. The finishing process for a rifle is time consuming and labor intensive, so making precise kits that customers assemble themselves is a better fit for the business. This lets Kibler's focus on making components precisely while customers take part in the building process, which people also tend to value more because they contributed the work themselves.

Does Kibler's take custom orders to build a full rifle?

No, Kibler's is not taking orders for full custom built rifles. Custom work takes a long time and is not as profitable as the kit business, so kits remain the focus, with only rare exceptions where a rifle is finished in house.

Does making the tumbler on the new bar feeder machine change the finish quality?

The bar feeder machine produces a somewhat better finish and more consistent results than making the tumbler on a vertical machine with a fourth axis, which requires two separate setups. The bar feeder can complete the tumbler in one setup.

How did Jim Kibler learn to engrave?

Jim started learning to engrave around age 16 by practicing and studying original longrifle engraving closely, looking critically at every cut, its shape, and its width at different points. He recommends studying original work as the most important step, since nearly every highly respected custom builder has spent countless hours studying originals.

How does Kibler's Mazak CNC machine work?

The Mazak is a bar feeder machine, essentially a combination mill and lathe, that constantly advances a workpiece from bar stock. It can do lathe work and mill work, and has a vise feature that opens, closes, and rotates so the machine can cut a part off and then work the back side of that same part.

How does Kibler's decide which new rifle styles to offer?

Kibler's picks new gun styles based on where they expect the maximum amount of sales and interest, while being mindful that offering too many products at once becomes counterproductive to the business. Jim has also considered studying more original guns closely for particular styles, like a Fowler or a Lehigh Valley gun, to make future kits closer copies of well-regarded originals.

How does Kibler's design a rifle based on a rare original like the Brown Bess?

In the past, some complex parts were made as a physical model and then 3D scanned and converted to a solid model, though scanning loses quality, especially on inside and outside corners. Kibler's has moved to designing directly in CAD, which is more time consuming for organic shapes like stocks but gives a better end product. For a piece like a rare original, a scan may still be used as a reference to set up the surface shapes, but the final design work is done with CAD tools rather than using the scan data directly.

How historically accurate is Kibler's rifle design compared to original longrifles?

Kibler's designs are very consciously built to represent historical originals, based on years of studying original guns rather than copying one exact gun. Enough study and knowledge lets a designer develop a feel for what the guns should look like and assimilate that knowledge into a cohesive design, so the lines and proportions read as harmonious the way original guns did.

How long does it take to machine a nose cap on the Mazak CNC?

A nose cap takes about a 5 minute cycle on the Mazak machine.

Is sandpaper historically accurate for building a flintlock rifle?

Sandpaper did exist during the colonial period, though Jim isn't sure exactly how far back it goes or how readily available it was, and it wasn't the same quality as sandpaper made today. Some very finely finished original rifles, such as those attributed to gunsmiths like John Armstrong, were likely sanded rather than scraped.

Was Kibler's designing a Hawken kit as of August 2024?

At that time it had not started, but a Hawken was expected to be the next new kit because of strong customer interest and because many of its parts could be machined carefully with relatively little hand work, making it well suited for production.

Were Kibler's parts always machined, or were they cast at one point?

Kibler's originally cast parts like nose caps, but cast quality was inconsistent because molds wear and castings are not always great. They started machining these parts on a large vertical machine with a fourth axis, and machined parts are far superior to the cast versions with no real comparison in quality.

Were original Hawken lock parts case hardened?

They likely were. Original locks of that era were made of wrought iron, which is soft, even softer than modern mild steel, except for the springs which were steel. For wrought iron lock parts to hold up and function, case hardening was generally required, so original Hawken style locks were most likely case hardened, aside from possibly the very cheapest examples.

Were original longrifles with carving and engraving typically decorated by the customer at home?

No. There is a common notion online that original rifles were bought plain and later decorated at home by the owner, but that is generally not accurate for rifles with proper carving and engraving. Some of the lowest end builds, like barn guns, may have had minor home touches such as simple painting, but true carving and engraving work was not typically done by the customer after purchase.

What CNC machines does Kibler's use and why does it use a range of different ones?

Kibler's uses a range of CNC machines matched to different types of work, including HAAS machines that are affordable with a strong value, Mazak mill-turn machines that are more capable but far more expensive, and a DMG Mori machine that is a further step up. A mill-turn machine like the Mazak combines milling and turning in a five-axis, bar-fed setup that can make and unload a part and then feed more bar stock to keep producing.

What got Jim Kibler interested in building longrifles?

Jim got interested around age 15. His family was interested in antiques and lived in old historic houses, and he always liked building things. His dad had bought an old half stock rifle made by a local gunsmith, and his grandparents had an old CVA rifle kit that belonged to his uncle but had never been assembled, so Jim put it together and shot it. He also studied the gun making sections of the Foxfire book series, which covered builders like Hershel House and Jim Chambers.

What is Jim Kibler's background before starting Kibler's Longrifles?

Jim Kibler started building long rifles around age 15 out of personal interest, growing up in a family that liked history. He went on to become a metallurgical engineer, and after a few years away from building he returned to constructing long rifles while working as an engineer, eventually becoming well respected among custom muzzleloading gun builders.

What is the Fowler kit based on historically?

The Fowler kit is based on smoothbore guns originally made in England during the 1760s to early 1770s for export to the colonies. In the period these were called fowling pieces, and they were the equivalent of a modern single barrel shotgun.

What is the Woodsrunner rifle based on?

The Woodsrunner is based on a rifle, or a couple of rifles, believed to have been made in the Valley of Virginia, probably during the 1760s or 1770s. It got its name from a modern day collector who held onto the original rifle for a long time and named it, and the name stuck in the collecting community.

What is the process Kibler's uses to turn a maple log into a dried stock blank?

Logs are cut into planks on the sawmill, then the planks are air dried for a period to bring the moisture content down to around 20 percent or a bit less. After that, the planks are cut into the rough profile of a gunstock blank and dried further in a dehumidification kiln until ready to use.

What kinds of problems existed in the muzzleloading kit market before Kibler's started?

Before Kibler's, options were largely limited to low-end imported flintlocks that often had function and quality issues, high-end part sets that required significant skill and time to complete, and fully custom handmade rifles that could take years to receive and cost a great deal. This left a gap for people who wanted a high quality rifle without years of expertise or a multi-year wait.

What original guns inspired the design of the Fowler kit?

The Fowler kit was designed using original trade fowlers made in England around the 1770s to 1780s, guns that were originally flintlock and exported to this country. The kit follows that quality level and style, though the trigger guard will have a cast-in finial and a thumb piece with some carving rather than engraving on the bow.

What original rifle is the Woodsrunner kit based on?

The Woodsrunner is based on an original rifle believed by many to have been made in the Valley of Virginia in the late 1760s. The original is unsigned, so its exact origin is debated, but its styling suggests that region and period.

What period and style is the Colonial kit based on?

The Colonial was Kibler's second kit and is a big, strong rifle representative of the colonial period. It draws design details from a lot of different original areas but reads as a robust, strong rifle with more Germanic influence than the Woodsrunner, which has more Fenpiece influence even though it was made in this country.

What style of rifle is Kibler's planning as its next new model?

The plan under consideration is a higher grade English style trade gun, inspired by a Wilson trade gun pictured in a book on trade guns, similar to one believed to belong to Colonial Williamsburg. It would have a round faced lock adapted with a simpler cock and frizzen, a three stage barrel that transitions from round to octagon, and a serpent side plate, and it would most likely be offered in black walnut.

What time period and style is the Hawken kit based on?

It is styled after guns made in St. Louis during the 1840s and 1850s, incorporating many details used by Jacob and Samuel Hawken, though Kibler's made some changes so it is Kibler's own version of a Hawken rifle rather than a copy of a specific original.

What wood did original Hawken rifles typically use, and how were they finished?

Walnut was fairly popular for original Hawken rifles, but many surviving examples actually used straight grain maple rather than curly maple. They were often finished with a dark brown varnish applied fairly opaque over the whole stock, and on worn originals you can see areas where that varnish has rubbed through to a lighter color underneath.

Where does the name Woodsrunner come from?

The name was coined by Earl Lanning, who owned the original rifle the kit is based on, because the rifle has the shape, style, and feel that reminds people of a frontier rifle.

Why are Kibler's rifles sold as kits instead of fully assembled?

Kibler's rifles are made very precisely and uniformly using modern equipment, which lets customers put them together themselves and take part in the process. Selling them as kits filled a gap in the muzzleloading market for high quality firearms that did not require years of expert skill to complete or a long wait to obtain.

Why are some export or trade grade fowler buttplates thicker at the toe?

Trade gun or export grade buttplates are often noticeably thicker at the toe, which may have been done intentionally for extra durability, or could be a byproduct of the same process of filing the buttplate flush with the wood, which naturally leaves more material at the bottom.

Why did Kibler's start buying and cutting its own curly maple logs instead of only buying pre-cut lumber?

Kibler's began sourcing curly maple logs and cutting them on its own sawmill because the availability of already-cut curly maple lumber, in the thicknesses needed for stock blanks, was not sufficient to meet demand.

Why did Kibler's switch from Rice barrels to Green Mountain barrel blanks?

Kibler's likes doing as much work in house as possible, and bringing barrel work in house allowed for different manufacturing approaches and meaningful cost savings even after accounting for machinery costs. Green Mountain also has strong production capability and a solid reputation for accuracy and bore finish, so the change was not viewed as any sacrifice in quality.

Why did Kibler's use the Hawken name for its mountain rifle kit if it isn't a direct copy of any single original Hawken?

The kit is meant to capture the flavor and the vast majority of the details of historical Hawken rifles, similar to how other Kibler's kits are inspired by originals rather than being exact copies down to every part. Hawken is also a widely recognized name that helps promote black powder shooting and the era it represents.

Why does developing a new rifle kit take so long?

Kibler's has to create a complete digital description of every surface, form, and point of the rifle, which is far more difficult than building a single gun by hand. Beyond designing the part itself, the fixtures and manufacturing process for making that part efficiently and repeatably in production also have to be designed.

Why does the Southern Mountain Rifle use iron or steel hardware instead of brass?

The Southern Mountain Rifle uses iron or steel furniture rather than brass because that style developed among builders in the mountains, who were often blacksmiths familiar with forging rather than brass casting. Brass also may not have been readily available in those remote regions, so a unique iron-mounted style developed there.

Why were English fowling pieces so common in colonial America?

English fowling pieces were made quickly and cheaply using a production system with specialization, even though machines were limited at the time. This made them cheaper than guns made in the colonies, so they were shipped over and sold at general stores, becoming one of the most common and versatile guns on the frontier. They could shoot either shot or a round ball.

Can I add carving to a Woodsrunner I already finished?

No, the carving cannot be added after the fact. It is cut as part of the same all in one machining operation that shapes the stock, so once a stock has been made into a finished rifle it cannot go back in the machine to be carved.

Can I buy a Kibler's lock polished and engraved instead of in the standard finish?

No, locks are supplied in a bead-blasted finish. Kibler's has to be careful about handwork because any kind of custom handwork slows down production significantly, so polished or engraved locks are not currently offered, though it might be considered as a service in the future.

Can I choose my own carving design or pattern on the carved Woodsrunner?

No, at the time of release there is one carving design and no customer choice of pattern. A simpler relief carved version was expected to come later, but the initial offering is a single fixed design.

Can I get a kit without the lock area inletted?

This is something Kibler's tries to avoid, since offering non-standard inletting configurations would introduce the same custom-work complications that come with any deviation from the standard production process.

Can I have a custom name or maker's mark engraved on my lock?

Yes, putting a name on the lock is appropriate, similar to how original locks were often marked with the maker's name. Some builders have used Kibler on their locks, and others have used their own name.

Can I order a Kibler rifle kit without a patch box?

It depends on the model. The Colonial kit comes without a patch box or sliding wood box lid, the Woodsrunner has one, and the Mountain Rifle and Fowler do not have one.

Can Kibler's build a custom rifle configuration, like a true poor boy without a butt plate or side plate?

Kibler's is set up for production work, doing the same thing repeatedly, and custom requests cause organizational problems and complications with how processes are fixtured. Because of this, Kibler's tries extremely hard to avoid custom work, so the answer to special one-off configurations is generally no.

Could a left-handed kit become more feasible in the future?

As Kibler's shifts toward machining more parts on equipment that does not rely heavily on fixturing, such as mill turn machines that hold bar stock in a chuck, it may become easier and more financially reasonable to offer a left-handed version down the road.

Does Kibler's ever sell seconds or discounted kits?

Yes, Kibler's sometimes has seconds available, though not all the time. These might have a dark streak, a bark inclusion, or a small machining problem such as chips, so it is worth checking in to see if any are available.

Does Kibler's offer a service to assemble a rifle in the white?

Yes, assembling a kit in the white, meaning built and put together but not yet finished or stained, is a service that Kibler's offers with its kits.

Does the Colonial kit come with a patch box?

The Colonial comes with a patch box but also has the option of no patch box, since some builders want to add their own decoration or prefer the plain look without a sliding wood patch box, and a few original rifles were made without one.

Does the Hawken kit take a captured or non-captured barrel key?

The keys are not captured, meaning they can slide all the way out of the stock. Kibler's was considering adding a slot down the length of the key with a corresponding pin through the barrel channel to prevent the key from being pulled out and lost, based on customer interest.

Does the Woodsrunner kit come with the patch box option?

The Woodsrunner is not offered without the patch box. Some builders have chosen to fill in the sliding patch box cutout in the butt plate and add a brass box liner over the cavity instead, a modification that was occasionally done on original guns as well.

How do you order a Kibler's kit with an unusual stock like bird's eye figure?

You can contact the Kibler's team and ask them to keep an eye out for a stock with unusual figure, such as bird's eye, since these occasionally appear in inventory and get set aside for special requests before going into general quick ship stock.

How much decoration or carving can be done on the Colonial kit?

The Colonial's design lends itself to a lot of carving and decoration, and with that decoration it can be made to look better than the Woodsrunner since it has more opportunity for embellishment.

Is a tow plate necessary on the Southern Mountain Rifle?

A tow plate on the Southern Mountain Rifle is optional. Whether it actually improves durability of the stock's toe is debatable, since some original mountain rifles had tow plates and others did not, so it is mostly a stylistic choice.

Should I add a brass piece to the end of the patch box?

Kibler's includes a piece of brass in the kit for builders who want to add it to the end of the patch box, but recommends against it unless you are familiar with that kind of work. A poorly done brass tip usually looks worse than having no brass piece at all, even though some original rifles did have it.

What gauges is the Kibler Fowler kit offered in, and how do they differ?

The Fowler kit is offered in 16 and 20 gauge, which share the same exterior barrel shape but differ in bore size, 62 versus 67 caliber, and therefore wall thickness. The 16 gauge handles a bit nicer and is more representative of a true English gun, while the 20 gauge gives a lighter ball and slightly better ballistics if you intend to shoot round ball, even though the gun is not primarily designed for that.

What options are available on the Hawken kit besides caliber?

Beyond caliber, the Hawken kit offers a patch box option and an inlay option on the cheek piece, an elliptical or oval German silver inlay paired with silver keychets. Aside from those options and caliber, there are no other variants.

What wood choices are available for the Hawken kit?

It is available in maple, walnut, and cherry. For historical correctness, maple and walnut are considered most appropriate, since many original Hawken rifles appear to have been stocked in relatively plain maple.

What wood is recommended for the carved Woodsrunner?

Sugar maple carves beautifully and is a great choice for the carved option. Kibler's is more selective about the wood used for carved stocks, avoiding fuzzy wood that does not cut cleanly, so carved stocks tend to use a harder wood.

What wood is the Woodsrunner stock available in?

The Woodsrunner is most commonly offered in curly maple, the traditional and most frequently used wood for longrifles. Cherry and walnut are also available, with black cherry used occasionally and walnut used less frequently during the original period.

What wood options are available for the Woodsrunner kit?

Maple is the primary option, including red or sugar maple in soft or hard maple, with curly maple being the most popular choice since most longrifles were stocked in maple. Walnut and cherry are also available, and occasionally other woods.

What wood options are offered for the Hawken rifle kit?

The Hawken kit is offered mostly in traditional woods. Straight grain maple is the most common historically, but curly maple is available if requested, along with walnut.

Which Kibler's kit is the fully carved option available on?

The fully carved option is only available on the Woodsrunner kit. The Woodsrunner is produced on equipment sophisticated enough to do this carving, and the other kits are not currently made on that same equipment.

Why doesn't Kibler's offer a left-handed kit?

It is purely a matter of economics rather than any bias against left-handed shooters. Left-handed shooters are a small percentage of the customer base, and making a left-hand version is not as simple as reversing a CNC program because it involves separate fixtures and molds for investment cast parts such as the lock.

Why doesn't Kibler's offer customization of the carving pattern on a kit?

In the early years Kibler's tried doing customizations when customers asked for changes like adjusting which carving elements appeared, and it did not work well for the business. The company is built around producing kits a certain way rather than offering custom one off changes, and altering carving programming can take significant extra time.

Why doesn't Kibler's offer multiple barrel length options on its rifles?

Offering multiple barrel length options is difficult in manufacturing, and standard, fixed configurations work much better for Kibler's production process. Barrel length changes are also not as simple as they sound, because stock proportions like the fore end typically need to be adjusted to keep the build looking proportional when barrel length changes.

Will Kibler's make left handed rifles?

At the time of this discussion, Kibler's did not yet offer left handed models across the line, but a left handed barn gun kit was planned. Locks for left handed builds would be made fully machined in house rather than cast, using mirrored versions of the machining programs already developed for the right handed lock.

Will other Kibler's kits get carving options in the future?

Jim expects carving to become part of more future kit offerings. For example, the Fowler in development is planned to have carving around the tang and lock moldings similar to quality original English fowling pieces.

Will the barrel on the Hawken kit be able to be shortened?

The Hawken is stocked in a fairly traditional way and is not offered as a shortened carbine version, but some builders have cut the barrels down themselves. If considering this, you would need to check the spacing between the under lugs and pipes to see how it would work out.

Will the carving be exactly the same on every carved Woodsrunner?

The carving will generally follow the same pattern, but there will be small variations build to build since Jim continues to look at and tweak details over time.

Would Kibler's ever offer a mountain rifle with a shorter barrel than the standard length?

No. Making adjustments to the standard barrel length is too difficult to accommodate given the manufacturing process, so the standard length is what is offered.

Are the patch box lids on Kibler's kits pre-shaped?

Yes. The box lids are provided completely shaped with a thin, historically correct profile similar to how originals were made, rather than needing to be shaped by the builder.

Are the ramrod pipe holes pre-drilled on Kibler's kits?

On the mountain rifle, the ramrod pipes do not have holes pre-drilled in them, while the Colonial rifle does have the holes drilled in the tabs. Where holes are not pre-drilled, the same drill guide bushing process is used to drill them.

Do I need to install the touch hole liner myself?

No. The touch hole liner is already installed in the barrel on all of Kibler's kits, so there is no need for the builder to install one.

Do Kibler's individually sold locks include a fly for use with set triggers?

Locks built into Kibler's rifle kits are set up for single triggers only and do not include a fly in the tumbler. Locks sold individually as standalone components do include a fly, so they can be used with set triggers.

Do Kibler's locks fit the mortises of rifles that originally had Chambers locks?

No. When Kibler's designed its locks, they started from the ground up and made them to their own specifications, which means the outside dimensions differ from Chambers locks and other older locks. They are not intended as drop-in replacements for mortises cut for those other locks.

Does a machined buttplate have a better surface finish than a cast one?

The surface finish is comparable between a machined buttplate and a cast one, since both still need to be polished. The real difference is that the machined version is far more consistent in size and shape.

Does my barrel have a touch hole liner installed?

All new barrels made in conjunction with Green Mountain come with touch hole liners already installed, unless a carbon steel liner was ordered, in which case it may ship uninstalled. Look for a small hole through the side of the barrel a little bigger than a sixteenth of an inch; if you see it, and it has a slightly different color than the barrel steel, a stainless steel liner is already installed.

How are Kibler's machined buttplates made before they go on the mill?

The process starts with a sand cast brass preform shaped roughly like the buttplate's cross section. The preform is then machined in two operations on a three axis mill with a fourth, rotary axis: the first operation machines the inside, and the second machines the outside into the finished shape.

How are the Fowler's ramrod pipes made?

The ramrod pipes for the Fowler are planned to be made from thin sheet metal, around 20 to 25 thousandths thick, that is rolled and formed rather than machined solid. This matches how these parts were typically made on the original guns, even though the wall could also be machined very thin if needed.

How are the sights and ramrod pipes fitted on the Hawken kit?

The sights simply push into dovetails and may need a little fitting. The ramrod pipes are soldered onto the under rib, and that soldering is done by Kibler's before the kit ships.

How do I remove the tumbler from the cock on a Kibler's lock?

The tumbler is a press fit into the cock, so it has to be driven out with a punch. Support the cock well on the back side, then hit the punch with a good sharp rap using a square punch sized to fit the hole. The tumbler shafts have a small two degree taper, so once the fit breaks free it comes out all at once.

How do I tell the two lock bolts apart on the Woodsrunner?

There are two lock bolts: the one with longer threads is the rear lock bolt, and the one with shorter threads is the front lock bolt.

How do you adjust the amount of travel on the front trigger?

There is an adjustment screw for the front trigger; turning it in reduces the amount of travel required to fire.

How does Kibler's choose the wood patch box lid that goes with a sliding wood box stock?

Kibler's tries to pick a lid with grain structure similar to the rest of the stock so the finished rifle looks good, though it is not always a perfect match.

How does the set trigger on the Southern Mountain Rifle work?

The rifle can be fired by simply pulling the front trigger, but this requires a much heavier pull to release the lock. To use the set trigger, the rear trigger is pulled back first, which loads the triggers, after which only a small amount of force on the front trigger is needed to release the rear trigger and trip the lock's sear.

How is the under rib attached on the Hawken rifle kit?

The Hawken's under rib is hollow and lightweight, machined out, and held on with screws that go into threaded holes in the bottom of the barrel. The ramrod pipes are soldered to the under rib before the builder receives it, and then the assembly is screwed onto the barrel.

How is the under rib attached on the Hawken, and how are the ramrod pipes attached to it?

The under rib on the Hawken is screwed on with machine screws, and the ramrod pipes are soldered to the under rib.

How much slack should there be in the triggers on a flintlock?

There should be a small amount of slack before the trigger contacts the sear, both at half cock and full cock. Triggers are paired and adjusted to each individual lock ahead of time since the sear position varies slightly from lock to lock, but the fit should still be checked on installation.

My ramrod has a bow in it. Is that a problem?

A bow in the ramrod is not a real concern. Just bend it in the opposite direction, working along the length, and it will straighten out. It does not have to be perfectly straight, and a slight bow can even help it spring and stay in the stock a little better. The rods are sturdy enough that you can put quite a bit of force into straightening them without breaking them.

On the Hawken kit, is the breech plug already installed and are the under lugs fit?

The breech plug is already installed on the Hawken kit. The under lugs are not installed but are fit, so they require no additional fitting work. The under rib may or may not be installed, but if it is not, it only needs a few screws threaded in to install it.

What are the under lugs on a barrel and what are they for?

The under lugs are metal tenons that fit into dovetails on the bottom of the barrel and extend down into the stock, where pins pass through them to help hold the barrel in the stock.

What barrel blank suppliers does Kibler's use?

Kibler's barrel blanks come from multiple suppliers, including Rice, Green Mountain, and Colerain. Kibler's machines everything on the barrel except the bore itself, which is produced by these suppliers.

What comes in the drill guide and tap kit that Kibler's includes with every kit?

The included packet has a drill guide bushing for sixteenth inch pin holes, a matching drill bit around 52 thousandths with a collet holder so it can be chucked in any drill, a second drill bit around 63 thousandths, and a tap. These are included with every kit at no extra cost.

What diameter pin stock is used for attaching the ramrod pipes?

Kibler's uses 1/16 inch piano wire for the ramrod pipe pins.

What do the under lugs do on a Southern Mountain Rifle kit?

The under lugs are small projections that insert into dovetails on the bottom of the barrel and hold the barrel to the stock. They typically require a little hand fitting, but not a lot.

What holds the breech end of the barrel in place in a colonial rifle kit?

The breech end of the barrel is held in place by a bolt that passes through the tang, through the stock, and threads into the trigger plate underneath.

What holds the patch box lid closed on a colonial rifle kit?

A spring is attached to the underside of the box lid with a screw, and it snaps and catches the edge of the buttplate to retain the lid so it does not fall out.

What is a touch hole liner and what does it do?

A touch hole liner is a threaded bushing installed in a drilled and tapped hole in the barrel where the pan powder flash ignites the main charge. It is counterbored on the inside to form a cone that brings the powder charge closer to the outside of the barrel, and it shortens the flash channel, which helps the rifle fire a bit faster and stay cleaner since the shorter channel fouls less.

What is a touch hole liner made of and does the material matter?

Liners are made of either stainless steel or carbon steel. Stainless steel resists erosion and burnout so the flash hole stays close to its original size longer, while a carbon steel liner will color to match the rest of a browned or blued barrel so its presence is not visible.

What is the bolster area of a flintlock and why does its fit matter?

The bolster is the area at the front edge of the lock plate. It needs to make good, flush contact against the side of the barrel; if it does not, extra wood in the bolster inlet area should be removed until the lock seats flush against the barrel.

What is the drill guide bushing included with the kit used for?

The drill guide bushing is used to extend sixteenth inch pin holes through metal parts. All the holes are drilled in the wood already, but some parts do not have the corresponding holes extended through the metal parts, and this bushing helps drill those accurately.

What is the purpose of the little tabs on the trigger guard?

The tabs are where holes are drilled through the trigger guard to align with pre-drilled holes in the stock, allowing pins to be driven through and secure the trigger guard to the stock.

What is the purpose of the under rib on the Hawken kit?

The under rib positions the ramrod hole correctly on a half stock rifle, essentially simulating where the wood web of a full stock would normally position the ramrod channel.

What is the thumb catch on a patch box lid for?

The thumb catch is a small carved or shaped detail on the patch box lid that makes it easier to lift the spring-retained lid with a thumb rather than having to push it open. It also serves a decorative purpose.

What is the wood box on the side of a colonial longrifle used for?

The sliding wood patch box, sometimes called a box, is a cavity built into the stock with a shaped, dovetailed cover that slides in and locks in place. It was traditionally used to store cleaning equipment, gun flints, and similar small items.

What kind of pin stock is included with the Colonial kit for pinning parts?

The kit includes pin stock made of music wire, or piano wire, that has been drawn back, meaning re-tempered to a higher temperature than it was originally tempered at. This keeps it strong while making it easier to cut with side cutters.

What lock comes on the Woodsrunner kit?

The Woodsrunner uses a round face English style lock representative of the 1760s to 1770s, the same lock used on the Colonial rifle kit. All of its internal parts are machined from billet stock.

What lock comes with the Woodsrunner kit and how is it made?

The Woodsrunner uses a convex, round faced English lock similar to the type that would have been exported to the colonies and used on an original longrifle. Most of the parts on Kibler's lock are machined, with only the cock being a cast part, and the frizzen and internal parts including the springs are machined for reliability and precision.

What lock does Kibler's use as an example for fitting into a colonial rifle kit?

A round-faced English style lock with 1760 styling made by Jim Chambers was used as an example, since it is a well regarded lock that requires the typical light fitting before it drops into the mortise.

What lock is used in the Southern Mountain Rifle kit?

The Southern Mountain Rifle kit uses a lock made by Jim Chambers Flintlocks, referred to as the late Ketland flintlock. It is an English export style flintlock representative of the early 19th century, and is a strong, fast, and reliable lock.

What material are the pins used to secure the barrel lugs made from, and how are they prepared?

The pins are cut from music wire, which is normally quite springy. The wire is tempered by heating it to around 900 degrees, which softens it enough that it can be filed and cut with regular side cutters.

What parts come already installed on the Woodsrunner stock when it arrives?

The stock arrives with the buttplate, trigger plate, trigger guard, entry pipe, and patch box already installed. The lock, barrel, and remaining small parts come separately in a bag, and a ramrod is included as well.

What parts does Kibler's make on the Mazak CNC machine?

The Mazak makes a variety of small parts including nose caps, ramrod pipes, entry pipes, tumblers, bridles, sears, front sights, and some springs.

Where can I find replacement parts for a Chambers lock that came with an older Kibler kit?

Kibler's does not stock replacement parts for Jim Chambers Flintlocks components, since Kibler's is no longer using Chambers locks. Replacement parts for those older locks need to be sourced directly from Jim Chambers Flintlocks.

Which barrel manufacturers does Kibler's use?

Kibler's uses three barrel makers: Rice, Colerain, and Green Mountain. Multiple suppliers are needed to keep up with demand. All three are cut rifled and shoot well. Kibler's machines the outside of every blank, so the finished barrels share the same profile and are interchangeable. Twist rate can differ between suppliers for a given caliber.

Which lock will the pistol kit use, and is it flat-faced or round-faced?

The pistol kit uses Kibler's Lake Kealand lock, which is flat-faced. A round-faced lock would be too large for this pistol, which represents a federal-period pistol from around 1800, a period where the flat-faced Catlin export-style lock is appropriate.

Which parts of the Hawken kit are cast versus machined?

On the Hawken kit, the buttplate and the trigger guard are castings. The rest of the parts are machined.

Who makes the barrels used in Kibler's kits?

Rice Barrels and Green Mountain Barrels do the boring of the barrel depending on caliber, and Kibler's does the exterior work, including installing the breech plug and touch hole liner and cutting the dovetails.

Why did Kibler's choose to have a custom screw maker produce the wood screws for the toe plate and patch box?

Good quality screws are hard to find commercially since threads are often poor and slots are wide and shallow. Kibler's had its screw machine company (the one that makes lock screws) turn these wood screws instead, which cost several times more than commercial screws but have sharp threads and precise, narrow slots that hold much better.

Why did Kibler's move away from barrels with integral under lugs?

Kibler's was happy with barrels that had under lugs machined as an integral part of the barrel, but a newer barrel-making method does not allow for integral under lugs, though it does produce a better quality barrel overall. Because of that trade-off, Kibler's went back to separate under lugs that are dovetailed into the barrel, pre-sized to length for each location, marked, and given a lead so they start easily in the dovetail, with instructions included for fitting.

Why did Kibler's switch from cast buttplates to machined buttplates on the Woodsrunner?

Castings vary in size and shape, which makes them tricky to inlet well, especially for builders without a lot of experience. Machining the buttplate makes it much more consistent in size and shape, so it fits onto the stock with little or no wood removal.

Why does Kibler's cast a preform for the buttplate instead of bending brass bar stock?

Bending brass bar stock 90 degrees thins out the material in the heel, so thicker stock is needed and that becomes harder to bend. Casting a preform avoids that problem, and scrap brass from machining other parts like nose caps can be melted down for it.

Why does my stock have a small mineral streak or blemish even though it's graded as a good stock?

Kibler's grades stocks by judging whether an imperfection will show up or be noticeable in the finished rifle, drawing on experience from making high end custom guns. A very small blemish, like an eighth-inch mineral streak, can appear on an otherwise excellent, dense, highly figured stock and does not necessarily indicate a grading mistake.

Why does the box lid on a rifle sometimes not match the color of the rest of the stock?

When making kits, Kibler's tries to select the box lid wood from the same piece as the rest of the stock, but that is not always possible, so they use similar wood when they can't. If the color still doesn't match well enough for a builder's taste, it can be adjusted afterward using aniline dyes, such as TransTint, or premixed dyes sold by Laurel Mountain Forge.

Why does the set trigger on my Southern Mountain Rifle only fall to half cock instead of firing?

If the set trigger falls only to half cock when the front trigger is pulled with the lock cocked, the most likely cause is a missing fly, a very small part that fits behind the tumbler in the lock. The fly is easy to lose if the lock is taken apart, and if it is lost, the sear will fall into the half cock notch on the tumbler. Contact Kibler's and they will send a replacement.

Why does the trigger guard sometimes need extra material trimmed at the back before it fits the inlet?

Trigger guards are left slightly long at the rear on purpose because investment casting can vary a bit in size from part to part. Leaving extra wood in the inlet lets the fit be trimmed to match whichever guard is used rather than risking a gap if a shorter casting were paired with an already-tight inlet.

Why doesn't Kibler's make its own rifled or smoothbore barrel bores in house?

Kibler's machines everything on a barrel except the bore itself. The equipment needed to properly and efficiently rifle or ream a bore is expensive and specialized, and Kibler's decided it did not offer enough benefit to bring in house, so barrels are purchased as bar stock already bored, reamed, or rifled from outside barrel makers.

Why doesn't my ramrod fit into the ramrod pipes or the hole in the stock?

Ramrods vary slightly in size and are not perfectly uniform, so the ramrod often needs to be scraped or sanded down to fit the ramrod pipes and the stock. This is a normal part of the building process. Do not drill out the hole in the stock to fit an oversized rod, since that can cause real problems.

Why doesn't my stock's curl figure look impressive right out of the box?

Curl figure in wood often only shows up under certain lighting conditions, so a stock can have significant curl that is not visible until it is turned in the right light or until the wood is finished. It is common for the figure to become much more apparent once the stock is completed, even if it looked unremarkable earlier.

Why is the entry pipe already installed on the Woodsrunner kit?

The entry pipe is installed at the factory because ramrod pipe castings are sometimes twisted or bent and can be trickier to fit, so Kibler's installs it ahead of time to save the builder that difficulty.

Why is the front sight usually tighter to fit than the rear sight?

Sight dovetails are pre-cut slightly undersized, and the front sight dovetail generally runs a bit tighter than the rear, so it more often needs a little filing to fit before it will seat.

Why is the wood inside a Kibler buttplate fit closely instead of relying on the screw for alignment?

Relying on a wood screw to locate the buttplate side to side is not a good approach. Fitting the wood closely to the inside of the buttplate, the way many original rifles were made, removes dead space so the screw grabs wood faster and does not need to be as long.

Why might a lock plate be a little tight or loose in its inlet?

Lock plates are investment cast, so there can be slight variation in plate size from one lock to the next. Kibler's tries to size the inlet so there are no gaps while avoiding a fit so tight that a builder has to fight to seat the part.

Will a larger caliber barrel drop into an existing 50 caliber WoodsRunner stock?

Yes, a larger caliber barrel will drop into a 50 caliber WoodsRunner stock.

Is the Woodsrunner a good choice for a new builder?

Yes, the Woodsrunner is a good recommendation for new builders. It is a lighter, handier rifle that usually fits people well, the machining is highly refined so it goes together easily, and it works well for people looking to hunt deer or target shoot.

What is a quick ship kit?

Quick ship kits are kits that don't meet Kibler's normal specifications, often because of some kind of defect, and they are listed for sale on the website for builders who are comfortable working around minor issues.

What is the barn gun concept?

The barn gun is a plain, minimalist rifle designed to be more affordable, aimed at bringing more people into traditional black powder shooting.

Are Kibler's barrels proof tested?

No, Kibler's does not proof test barrels, and the barrel manufacturers who bore the barrels do not proof test them either. Jim does not think proof testing is necessary or even a wise practice, since the proofing process itself can risk causing damage.

Are Kibler's rifle barrels seasoned or hardened in any way?

No, the barrels are not seasoned or hardened. Keeping the barrels ductile, meaning able to change shape without fracturing, is a good thing, and the idea of seasoning a barrel is not something Jim considers legitimate.

Are red maple, silver maple, and western big leaf maple all suitable for gun stocks?

Red maple varies in hardness: some is very soft and unsuitable for a gun stock, while some can be as hard as sugar maple and machines very well. Silver maple is never suitable for a gun stock, and western maple such as big leaf maple is rarely suitable because it typically runs too soft, even though an occasional hard enough piece might be found.

Are the Colonial rifle and Southern Mountain Rifle made on older machinery than other Kibler kits?

Yes, the Colonial and Southern Mountain Rifle are the only two kits currently made on the older machinery. It still produces a good result, though probably not quite as refined as the newer machines used for other kits.

Are the holes for the trigger plate and lock already drilled and tapped in a Kibler's kit?

Yes, the holes in the trigger plates of the rifles are drilled and tapped, and the holes for the locks in the stock are also already drilled and tapped. Because CNC machining methods are used for both the metal parts and the stock inlets, the locks fit with virtually no wood removal needed.

Are the light and dark stripes in curly maple actually different hardness?

No, this is a common misconception. The stripes are not harder or softer than the surrounding wood; it is simply a different grain orientation, with some areas showing more end grain that may not cut as easily with a chisel, but that has nothing to do with actual hardness.

Are the lock bolt holes, tang holes, and trigger plate holes pre-drilled and tapped on Kibler kits?

Yes, the lock bolt holes are drilled and tapped, and the tang holes in the trigger plate are also drilled and tapped, so a builder does not need to do that work. Ramrod pipe and thimble lugs are not yet drilled on the mountain rifle, though they are already drilled on the colonial rifle.

Are the parts in Kibler's flintlocks cast or machined?

Most of the parts in Kibler's locks are machined, including the frizzen, the springs, and the internal parts. Only one part in the lock is cast.

Are the tolerances on Kibler barrels and stocks tight enough to swap barrels of different calibers?

Yes, the tolerances are tight enough for this. It is commonly done by customers, so swapping barrels of different calibers on the same stock should work fine.

Are the under lugs on Kibler's barrels dovetailed and fit separately?

On these barrels the under lugs are integral, machined right on the barrel itself rather than dovetailed and fit separately. This simplifies the manufacturing process, and it takes a very close look to tell that they were not dovetailed in.

Can I get a replacement barrel in a different caliber for my kit?

Yes, this is possible within the same model, since Kibler's controls barrel dimensions closely enough that barrels of different calibers are essentially interchangeable within that group. This only works if the stock was inlet for that barrel style, so an older stock made for one barrel supplier's dimensions cannot take a barrel cut for a different supplier's dimensions.

Can I request a specific rifling twist rate on my order, like 1 in 70 instead of the standard twist?

You can request it, but it may take a long time depending on caliber and barrel availability. Jim does not think the difference between something like a 1 in 56 and a 1 in 70 twist is very significant for round ball shooting, so he encourages customers not to be overly particular about exact twist rate.

Did original Hawken rifles typically use set triggers?

Almost all original Hawken rifles used set triggers typical of the period, with true single-trigger examples being very rare if they existed at all.

Do other woods besides maple show curl figure?

Yes, woods like cherry and walnut can curl, though not nearly as frequently as maple, and the character of the curl is different. In cherry and walnut, curl tends to be much broader or fatter compared to the typically finer curl seen in maple.

Do the touch holes on Kibler's locks sit at the bottom of the pan, and can that cause hang fires?

Kibler's touch holes are not at the bottom of the pan but near the bottom of it. Some believe a touch hole must be clear at the top of the pan to work well, but testing by Larry Pletcher has shown there is very little difference in performance based on touch hole position as long as it is not placed too high, and Kibler's has good experience with how its touch holes are positioned.

Do you recommend shooting conicals or bullets out of Kibler's rifles?

No, Kibler's rifle twist rates are not fast enough to properly stabilize conicals or cast bullets, which typically need something in the range of a 1 in 24 twist or faster. Kibler's rifles are designed and intended for round ball, and using conicals is not recommended since they are not made for it.

Does Kibler's use modern manufacturing techniques like 3D scanning to make historically accurate flintlocks?

Yes. Kibler's uses modern techniques such as 3D scans and CNC machining to recreate parts based on 18th and 19th century originals. Jim says taking advantage of modern technology has been a key part of making the business possible and lets them build accurate recreations without sacrificing quality.

Does curl run all the way through a maple tree?

Not necessarily. Curl might be present on one side of the tree and not the other, or it might appear only near the base of the tree due to compression curl, without extending all the way from the exterior to the interior of the tree. Because of this, care is needed when picking out and cutting good stock blanks.

Does the Kibler Fowler kit have a standing breech that lets the barrel tip out?

No, the Kibler Fowler kit has a fixed breech plug, meaning the barrel does not tip out, and it is held to the stock with pins rather than keys. This is consistent with its mid grade historical class, since only higher grade original guns typically had the tip-out standing breech.

Does the touch hole need to be positioned exactly at the top of the pan for good ignition?

No. The idea that a touch hole must sit in a specific sunset position relative to the top of the pan is not supported by testing. Timed testing done by Larry Pletcher with a computer found little ignition difference across touch hole locations unless it was too high, with lower placement in the pan being only marginally better. Kibler's touch holes sit deeper in the pan and ignition performance is very good.

How are stock blanks stacked for kiln drying?

After stock blanks are cut and their ends sealed, they are stacked in the kiln with stickers, small spacers placed between blanks so air can circulate around each one and let it dry more fully.

How consistent is the trigger pull on Kibler's flintlock locks?

Trigger pull has been fairly good and Kibler's has been working to make it more consistent, since it is a sensitive setting affected by many factors and generally should not be adjusted by hand unless a builder has experience. Making lock parts on newer, more consistent equipment has helped improve pull uniformity.

How deep are the rifling grooves on Kibler's barrels?

The barrels are rifled with six grooves that come out to about ten to eleven thousandths of an inch deep. Cutting any deeper than that is not seen as necessary and would be a wasted effort.

How does Kibler's approach the design of its Hawken kit compared to original Hawken rifles?

Kibler's does not aim to replicate any single original exactly. Many original Hawken rifles have a heavy barrel and bulky lock area paired with a comparatively thin buttstock, so Kibler's plans to balance out the mass a bit, using a lighter and shorter barrel while still keeping the flavor of a Hawken rifle.

How does Kibler's make its own locks, and how are they different from other locks?

Kibler's makes its own locks rather than relying on outside suppliers, which lets them control more of the components and quality. The biggest difference from other locks is precision: most components are CNC machined, with the exception of the cock, frizzen body, and top jaw, though even the frizzen gets significant CNC machining. That precision improves part quality, operability, and interchangeability. Kibler's also puts significant design effort into making the locks historically correct and aesthetically appealing.

How does percussion ignition work compared to a flintlock?

A percussion cap is placed on a nipple; when the hammer strikes and smashes the cap it explodes, sending a flame through a flash channel into the barrel to ignite the main charge. This percussion technology was invented around the 1820s but did not come into common use until roughly 1830 to 1835.

How does the Colonial kit compare in weight to the Woodsrunner?

The Colonial is a little heavier and more substantial than the Woodsrunner, which appeals to some builders, though the added weight makes it less popular than the Woodsrunner overall.

How does the Woodsrunner kit differ from the original rifle it is based on?

The kit is not an exact copy. The barrel is shorter, 39 and three quarter inches versus the original's 43 and a quarter inches, making it handier for smaller or younger shooters. The barrel is also a little lighter and smaller in profile, and the butt plate is slightly smaller than the original.

How does the trigger guard work on a Hawken style rifle?

On a Hawken style rifle, the trigger plate itself forms the finials that would otherwise be a separate trigger guard, so the guard is attached as part of that plate rather than being a fully separate piece.

How heavy and well balanced is the Hawken kit compared to original Hawken rifles?

Original Hawken rifles were typically very muzzle heavy, averaging around 10 pounds. The Kibler's Hawken in 54 caliber weighs about 8 pounds with a balance point that handles and points well.

How is the barrel attached to the stock on the Hawken kit and why?

The barrel is held to the stock with keys that slide in and out, and a hook on the rear of the barrel engages the standing breech, which stays fixed in the stock. This lets the barrel tip out and be removed just by sliding the keys out, which is both functional for modern users and consistent with how original Hawken rifles worked.

How is the bridle located on Kibler's flintlock, and why does that matter?

The bridle is located on the plate with a locating pin rather than relying on screws for positioning, which matches how the best original English locks were made. Most modern reproduction locks position the bridle with screws alone, which is a less precise way to build a lock.

How much material does the rifling cutter remove on each pass?

Each pass takes roughly three and a half to four tenths of a thousandth of an inch, which is a heavier cut than commonly recommended for cut rifling. This heavier pass produces a real chip instead of powdery metal, still leaves a good bore finish, and significantly cuts down cycle time.

How thin are the barrel walls on the Kibler Fowler kit compared to a one-off custom gun?

Kibler's pushes barrel wall thickness as thin as they feel comfortable with given how the gun might be used or misused, with a minimum wall thickness of 70 to 75 thousandths of an inch at the thinnest point. A one-off custom gun could go thinner, down around 40 to 50 thousandths, matching the very thin walls seen on original English guns.

How was the Hawken kit designed?

It was completely designed in CAD software rather than by scanning an original rifle, and it has around 60 unique pieces including pins and screws.

Is Kibler's able to improve the speed of its flintlock locks?

There is not much that needs to be or really can be done to improve speed, since the locks are already known to be quite fast and are made carefully and precisely. Tinkering with them is not recommended unless a builder has significant experience.

Is Kibler's wood kiln dried or air dried?

Most of the wood used is kiln dried, with more than 95 percent of it kiln dried when received. Occasionally air dried material is used as well. The wood is also stored in the shop for a period, ideally at least a month, before it is machined, since running it too soon after receiving it can cause more movement issues.

Is a 1 in 48 twist barrel good for shooting conical bullets?

No. A twist rate around 1 in 48, which was common on original Hawken rifles, is not fast enough to properly stabilize conical bullets. That twist rate is best suited to round ball.

Is ash a difficult wood to work with compared to other stock woods?

Despite a reputation among some builders for being difficult, Jim Kibler has not found ash to be difficult to work with and considers it to work quite well as a stock wood.

Is it a problem if a stock blank shows some heartwood?

Most gun stocks come primarily from sapwood, but a little heartwood sometimes appears in a blank. If the heartwood is fairly light in color it usually is not a significant problem, and once the stock is stained the color difference between sapwood and heartwood becomes far less noticeable. Kibler's avoids heartwood that is dark and nasty looking, since that type is more prone to cracking.

Is it dangerous to use a round ball in the 16 gauge Fowler instead of the 20 gauge?

It is probably not dangerous, but the 20 gauge tube has a heavier wall thickness, giving more safety margin, likely better accuracy, and less barrel movement or whip.

Is there a period appropriate peep sight for a longrifle?

Jim is not aware of a period appropriate peep sight for the flintlock longrifles Kibler's makes. Peep sights are more associated with later firearms, and he recommends studying the specific era of the gun in question to judge appropriateness.

There is a hole between the lock inlet and the barrel channel on my stock. Is that a defect?

That hole is not a problem, it is part of how the rifle is designed. Every stock has it, and it exists as clearance for the mainspring where the wood often gets thin. It does not weaken the stock and is not a reason for concern.

What actually causes the curl or figure seen in maple?

Curl comes from the wood's grain fibers, which normally run straight lengthwise, instead being bent in a wavy pattern in three dimensions rather than just one. When the board is sawn or planed through this irregular wavy shape, it creates areas of long grain and areas of more end grain, and that variation in grain orientation relative to the surface is what produces the visible stripes or figure.

What are the specs of the Fowler kit?

The Fowler kit represents a gun made in England in the 1760s for export, with a 39 and 3/4 inch barrel. It is stocked primarily in walnut, though Kibler's also offers it in maple, and it has a convex, round faced English flintlock appropriate to the period.

What ball size is recommended for a 50 caliber Woodsrunner?

Jim's preference is a ball sized 5 thousandths under bore diameter, such as a .495 for a .50 caliber, though some people prefer a bit more undersize, like a .490.

What barrel length and calibers are offered on the Hawken kit?

The barrel is fairly short at 32 inches, and the kit is available in 45, 50, 54, and 58 caliber, with 58 caliber weighing about 7.75 pounds, 54 caliber about 8 pounds, and 50 and 45 caliber somewhat more, roughly 8 to 8.5 pounds.

What barrel length does the Woodsrunner kit have?

The Woodsrunner has a 39 and three quarter inch barrel, which makes it handier than some of Kibler's longer rifles. The shorter barrel is more approachable for people used to modern rifles who might be put off by a long traditional barrel.

What caliber and barrel length does the Colonial kit come in?

The Colonial is available up to 58 caliber and has roughly a 43 inch barrel.

What calibers does the Woodsrunner come in and what type of barrel does it have?

The Woodsrunner comes in 45, 50, and 54 caliber and has an octagonal swamp barrel that is largest at the breech, tapers down to its narrowest point, then flares back out slightly at the muzzle. The barrel is 39 and three quarter inches long.

What calibers does the Woodsrunner kit come in?

The Woodsrunner comes in 45, 50, and 54 caliber, covering the calibers most builders are looking for.

What calibers is the Woodsrunner kit available in?

The Woodsrunner is available in 45, 50, and 54 caliber.

What causes dark streaks sometimes seen in maple, and are they a problem?

These streaks, sometimes mistakenly called mineral streaks, are actually caused by an ambrosia beetle boring into the wood, whose excretions stain the surrounding wood. They are usually less desirable in gun stocks than in furniture, and the frequency varies by region, occurring more in some areas like southern Indiana where it's sometimes called flag worm.

What common problems do older or lower quality flintlocks tend to have?

Common issues include lock plates that are not flat, bolsters that are not the same distance from or parallel to the plate, sear screws that cannot be fully tightened because the bridle pinches the sear, main springs or sear arms that rub on the plate, and large gaps between the internal parts and the plate or bridle. These problems have traditionally required a builder to hand tune the lock after purchase.

What does a hooked breech allow on a Hawken rifle?

A hooked breech, combined with the standing breech, allows the barrel to be removed from the stock very easily.

What era is Kibler's round faced English style flintlock based on?

It is based on locks from around the 1760s that were commonly imported to the American colonies from England, making it appropriate for American colonial longrifles as well as English guns of that period.

What gives ash its unique bark pocket figure, and how is it typically stabilized?

Some ash boards have a very undulating surface with bark pockets grown into the wood, creating a unique figure sometimes described as bark pocket ash. Small ingrown bark pockets or cracks are commonly stabilized with cyanoacrylate (CA) glue.

What historical period and style is the Kibler Fowler kit based on?

The Fowler kit is based on smoothbore guns made in England during the 1760s and 1770s for export to the colonies or early America. English fowling pieces from that era were made across a wide range of quality levels, from very low quality trade guns intended for the Indian trade up to very high end deluxe guns, and the Kibler kit sits in a mid grade between those extremes.

What is a captured key on a Hawken rifle, and how does it work?

A captured key is a barrel key with a slot cut in it. A pin is inserted through a small hole in the stock so the pin extends through the slot and into the wood below. This lets the key slide out partway but not come out completely, keeping it from being lost during use.

What is a good maximum load for a .50 caliber Woodsrunner?

Around 80 grains is a good maximum for a .50 caliber Woodsrunner, which is already a fairly stout charge for that caliber. For specific load development guidance, Kibler's sells an NMLRA published book on the basic use of muzzleloaders that covers load development, care, use, and cleaning.

What is a sensible maximum charge for a 45 caliber rifle?

Jim suggests a sensible maximum charge for a 45 caliber might be around 75 grains, and he sees no need to go beyond that.

What is a standing breech on a Hawken style rifle?

A standing breech is a design where part of the breech stays fixed in the stock's tang while the barrel itself has a hook that lets it tip up and out for cleaning. Keys on the underside can be popped out to release the barrel, making it easy to remove for cleaning, which is a signature feature of the Hawken rifle design.

What is a three stage barrel?

A three stage barrel has a round forward section, an intermediate round section of larger diameter, and an octagon breech section. It is a very old English barrel form dating to around the 1650s-1660s that mostly faded out on high end guns by the early 18th century, but continued in use on trade guns and carried over to the Kibler Fowler kit.

What is blister figure in maple, and is it common in all types of maple?

Blister figure appears as raised bubble-like bumps on the wood surface, caused by blisters that formed on the tree just below the bark. Jim Kibler has seen this figure in hard maple but not in soft or red maple.

What is meant by double keys on a Hawken rifle?

Double keys refers to using two keys to secure the barrel and stock assembly, which was very typical of Hawken rifles, especially the non-local trade rifles that were made to be shipped out west rather than sold locally.

What is stump cut wood and why is it desirable for a rifle stock?

Stump cut refers to taking advantage of the natural flare or bell shape near the base of a tree, where the grain follows that contour. Cutting a stock blank to follow this flare lets the overall grain flow down the wrist of the stock and follow the profile of the rifle, which makes the stock stronger, and it's often found together with compression figure near the roots.

What is the Southern Mountain Rifle kit based on?

The Southern Mountain Rifle is based on rifles made in western North Carolina, probably during the 1830s. It is a long, slender rifle with a 44 inch barrel and is available in calibers from .32 through .45.

What is the difference between a fowler and a trade gun?

Most people today refer to trade guns as guns intended for trade with Native Americans, and generally consider a trade gun a lower grade gun than Kibler's fowling piece. However, Kibler's own Fowler could technically be considered a trade gun too, since it was based on guns made in England with the intent of export to the colonies rather than for domestic English use, so the distinction is largely one of terminology and intended market rather than a fixed design difference.

What is the difference between quarter-sawn and slab-sawn curly maple figure?

In quarter-sawn wood, the growth rings run perpendicular to the face, and this cut usually produces very strong, more linear stripes. In slab-sawn wood, the growth rings run parallel to the face, and the figure tends to be more of a wavy, irregular pattern rather than strong linear stripes, though some trees actually show their best figure in the slab-sawn direction.

What is the difference between red maple and sugar maple for curl?

Red maple produces curl much more frequently than sugar maple and generally produces more vivid curl. Red maple is not the ornamental burgundy-leafed maple sometimes planted as a landscape tree, which is actually a Norway maple; red maple is the type that produces bright crimson leaves in the fall, and Norway maple is also considered a fine, hard stock wood.

What is the difference between red maple and sugar maple for stock wood?

Sugar maple is heavier than red maple, while red maple more commonly produces curl and tends to produce more vivid figure. Kibler's uses both, choosing blanks based on the quality and character of the curl available.

What is the difference between the Colonial and Woodsrunner kits for a first build?

The Colonial is a bit bigger, beefier, and has a longer barrel with a stronger architecture, while the Woodsrunner is shorter, lighter, and easier to handle, with an architecture closer to a fowling piece or trade rifle. The Woodsrunner is also somewhat easier to assemble than the Colonial, though the difference is not huge.

What is the historical basis for the Brown Bess project's design?

The Brown Bess project is based on an original 1756-model long land pattern musket loaned to Kibler's, which is in immaculate condition. Kibler's aims to copy it in every detail it can, since military patterns like this leave much less room for interpretation than long rifles or pistols, where a wide range of original variation existed historically.

What is the largest caliber available for the mountain rifle?

The largest caliber currently offered for the mountain rifle is .45, which is in line with how most historical mountain rifles were built, typically .45 or below. Kibler's is hesitant to go larger in order to stay historically correct and to manage the number of product variants they inventory.

What is the purpose of a touch hole liner?

A touch hole liner is a threaded insert in the side of the barrel that provides better ignition. It is coned on the inside so the powder charge poured down the barrel sits closer to the outside, which shortens the effective hole length, making ignition less prone to fouling and slightly faster than a plain drilled hole.

What is unique about the patch box cavity on the Woodsrunner?

The patch box cavity is rounded rather than having a typical pulled dovetail, with a radius at the bottom and the dovetail formed into that curve. This is a characteristic of the original rifle and is more of a challenge to machine, but some builders believe a rounded cavity is less prone to sticking in humid weather since there is no force on the bottom of the lid.

What kind of barrel does the Brown Bess musket use compared to an octagon rifle barrel?

The barrel is mostly round, large at the breech, and tapers down, likely with some belly rather than a perfectly straight taper, since it does not flare much given the bayonet needing to sit fairly straight at the muzzle. It is a thin-walled barrel, more akin to a fowler barrel than an octagon rifle barrel.

What kind of patch box does the Woodsrunner have?

The Woodsrunner has a sliding wood patch box. The butt plate has a dovetail undercut and the box cavity is shaped so a lid with a corresponding dovetail slides into place and is retained by a latch until the builder wants to open it.

What kind of wood was traditionally used for flintlock and percussion rifle stocks?

Maple was the predominant stock wood during the flintlock and percussion era, used an estimated 95 percent of the time. It was popular largely because of the curl and figure it can display, which made it a sought-after stock wood.

What makes the Fowler's barrel difficult to manufacture?

The Fowler uses thin walled, three stage round barrels, with a wall thickness around seventy thousandths on a sixteen gauge barrel, which is thin and can be tricky to turn on a lathe. Kibler's had to modify some of its machines to be able to produce these barrels while still getting a lightweight result with a nice surface finish.

What makes the Southern Mountain Rifle a bit more difficult to assemble than the Woodsrunner?

The Southern Mountain Rifle is made on older equipment that produces a slightly less precise stock than newer kits, and its parts are not fitted as closely, so the butt plate in particular can be tricky to fit for some builders. It was Kibler's first kit, and later kits benefit from improvements made since then.

What makes the Woodsrunner buttplate a difficult part to CNC machine?

The buttplate is thin walled and has an organic, non square shape, which makes it hard to hold securely and hard to build an efficient tool path for compared to simple parts that sit flat in a vise. Developing an accurate 3D model of the part was also tricky, so Kibler's built a model by hand and used 3D scanning to capture the surface data before turning it into a solid model.

What makes the shape of Kibler's swamped barrels different from typical modern-made swamp barrels?

Traditionally in the modern era, swamp barrels have been made by connecting a series of straight lines and blending them with a radius, which can leave visible kinks. Kibler's barrels are made with a continuous curve instead, giving a smoother shape without those kinks.

What separates a low grade English trade gun from a high end English fowling piece?

Low grade trade guns typically have sheet metal hardware bent to shape instead of cast hardware, a fixed breech with pins holding the barrel rather than a tip-out standing breech with keys, simpler locks without bridles on the frizzen or tumbler, and less refined engraving and carving. High end guns have a larger breech, cast or chiseled hardware, standing breech designs that let the barrel tip out for cleaning, bridled locks, and more elaborate engraving and carving.

What size drill bit and pin does Kibler's use for pinning parts like ramrod pipes?

Holes in the wood are drilled with a 1/16 inch bit, matched to a 1/16 inch pin, so the fit is a close, friction fit by design. If a finish coat has built up in the hole, running a drill bit through it again can clear it out so the pin seats properly.

What size threading is on the Hawken ram rod tip?

The ram rod tip is threaded 8-32 for attaching cleaning jags, ball pullers, and similar accessories.

What style of carving does the carved Woodsrunner use?

The carving is incised carving, meaning it is a V shaped cut line rather than relief carving. It is genuinely cut, not laser engraved, and it has an engraving-like feel with shading that produces a three dimensional quality similar to what you see on original longrifle work.

What twist rate do the Hawken barrels use, and is it good for round ball?

The 50 and 54 caliber Hawken barrels, generally sourced from Colerain, use a 1 in 56 inch twist. This twist works very well for shooting round ball, which is what Kibler's recommends. These barrels are not designed to shoot conicals.

What twist rate should I expect on a barrel depending on which manufacturer supplies it?

Twist rate varies by barrel supplier. In 45 caliber, a Rice barrel is typically 1 in 48 twist, while a Green Mountain barrel in that caliber is typically 1 in 70. In 50 caliber and up, twist will be 1 in 56 from Colerain, 1 in 66 from Rice, or 1 in 70 from Green Mountain. Kibler's uses multiple barrel blank suppliers, so the twist and maker you receive will vary and cannot be guaranteed in advance.

What type of rifling process does Kibler's use for its small caliber barrels?

Kibler's uses single point cut rifling, which is the traditional method for muzzleloading rifle barrels, rather than button rifling, broaching, or hammer forging. The process is done on a Haas TL2, which is a standard CNC lathe rather than a dedicated rifling machine, and the machine's C-axis is used to both rotate the barrel and index the cutter.

What was the hardest part of the Hawken kit to develop?

The breech assembly was the most difficult part, since the breech plug and the machined standing breech, including the snail area, all have to fit together with close tolerances.

What wood does Kibler's primarily use for maple stocks?

Kibler's primarily uses red maple, commonly called soft maple even though it is not actually soft, with some sugar maple passing through the shop as well, at roughly a 90 percent red maple mix. Red maple can vary a fair amount in hardness and quality, so the wood has to be selected carefully to make sure it is appropriate for a gunstock.

What would be a good starting black powder load for a Woods Runner in 54 caliber?

For a Woods Runner in 54 caliber, Jim suggested a starting point of around 60 to 70 grains of FFg, while noting he personally tends to shoot around 80 to 85 grains of FFg in his own 54 caliber rifles.

Where do Kibler's barrel blanks come from and who does the rifling?

Kibler's works with Green Mountain, which produces the barrel blanks and does the boring and rifling on most calibers. Kibler's then does the balance of the work, rifling everything 40 caliber and below in house, while Green Mountain rifles everything 45 caliber and above.

Where on the rifle is the carving located on the carved Woodsrunner?

The carving covers the areas a fully carved rifle would traditionally have carving: behind and in front of the cheek, the tang, lock moldings, toe molding, and comb molding.

Why are the butt plate and trigger guard on the Southern Mountain Rifle made of steel instead of brass?

The butt plate and trigger guard on the Southern Mountain Rifle are investment cast steel because guns made in that geographic area and time period were typically iron mounted rather than brass mounted.

Why are the underlugs on the Woodsrunner barrel slotted?

The underlugs are machined as part of the barrel and slotted to allow for seasonal movement in the wood, so the barrel and stock can move independently as humidity changes without binding.

Why are the underlugs on the barrel slotted?

The underlugs are slotted to let the wood move independently of the barrel as it expands or contracts with changes in moisture. Without that slotting, seasonal wood movement could pull or push on the barrel and affect accuracy.

Why did Jim Kibler make the Hawken kit's buttplate wider than on many original Hawken rifles?

Many original Hawken rifles had a very thin buttstock paired with a very large barrel and forestock, which looked like two different guns joined together and felt unbalanced. Widening the buttplate slightly on the Kibler Hawken kit was done to improve that balance.

Why did Kibler's design their own rifling cutter instead of buying one?

Kibler's originally rifled barrels using a cutter from another company, but it had problems with the tip breaking because the design was better suited to shorter modern firearm barrels and did not have enough pocket space for chip clearance. Since their muzzleloader barrels are 44 inches long and produce a lot of chips per pass, they redesigned the cutter to be more robust, with the wedge attached directly to the adjusting screw so it locks in place and does not follow the cutter when it is pushed back through the barrel.

Why do fowling pieces have single triggers instead of double triggers?

Fowling pieces always had single triggers designed to be pulled rather than squeezed, unlike rifles that used set triggers for careful sighting. Fowlers were developed with wing shooting in mind, though when exported they were also used to shoot round balls and whatever else could be loaded down the barrel.

Why do longrifle barrels have a swamped shape instead of being a constant diameter?

A swamped barrel is largest and strongest at the breech, where it needs to resist the force of the powder explosion, and gets thinner toward the muzzle where less strength is needed as pressure drops. This also keeps most of the weight near the breech so the rifle is not muzzle heavy, and the slight flare at the muzzle gives a graceful look and a bit more sight plane.

Why do longrifle barrels have a swamped, tapered shape instead of being a constant diameter?

The swamped barrel profile puts most of the weight toward the breech, which gives good balance to the rifle. The added material at the breech is also needed there for strength, and the shape gives the rifle a graceful, traditional look.

Why do many modern reproduction English guns have oversized forestocks?

Most manufactured guns that claim to be English style have overly thick forestocks because drilling the ramrod hole through a slim forestock is difficult, so makers thicken the wood to avoid dealing with that challenge. Original English fowling pieces actually have very slim forestocks, and the Kibler Fowler kit is built to match that slimmer, more accurate proportion.

Why do some Kibler barrels get rifled in house instead of by the barrel maker?

Barrel blanks that are 40 caliber and below arrive unrifled from the manufacturer, because the barrel makers prefer not to rifle anything in that caliber range. Kibler's developed its own single point cut rifling process in house to handle those smaller calibers.

Why do some Kibler's kits have more parts pre-fitted than others?

Newer kits generally have more parts fit before shipping because they are produced on newer machinery with better control over fit, and the goal with newer kits has been to reduce friction so builders have an easier time achieving success. Older kits like the Southern Mountain Rifle have fewer parts pre-fitted.

Why do some maple trees curl and others don't?

It's understood to be a genetic characteristic, comparable to curly hair in people, rather than something caused by wind or difficult growing conditions. If you find one curly tree, you're more likely to find others nearby, and there have historically been efforts, including work in Germany, to try to propagate curly trees for uses like musical instruments.

Why does Kibler's cut stock blanks before kiln drying instead of drying whole planks?

Cutting blanks first avoids drying wood that will not end up being used, and blanks dry faster and with less internal stress than wide planks because a blank has a larger surface area relative to its volume. Wide planks are more prone to cracking during drying.

Why does Kibler's use hickory for the ram rod?

Hickory is the traditional wood for a longrifle ram rod because it is very resilient and can bend significantly without breaking, making it a strong choice for the job.

Why does cast brass sometimes have pits in it?

Cast products are prone to defects, and some foundries produce better castings than others, so pits occasionally occur. Many pits file out with light filing, and Kibler's will replace a part if a customer is not happy with it.

Why does most of the wood Kibler's buys arrive green rather than pre-dried?

Most of the wood is bought green because it is easier to source consistent quality logs that way, though some pre-dried wood is purchased when available. The green wood is then dried down to around 15 percent moisture, either outside in a covered area or indoors with dehumidifiers running.

Why does the Hawken kit differ visually from many original Hawken rifles?

Many original Hawken rifles have a large, bulky lock and breech area paired with a noticeably thin buttstock, giving the impression of two different guns joined together. Kibler's evened out the mass across the rifle, using a slightly more graceful barrel and adjusting the stock proportions so it looks and feels like one cohesive design.

Why does the Hawken kit's barrel length stay in the lower 30 inch range instead of longer?

Keeping the barrel around 31 to 32 inches helps manage the overall weight of the rifle, since going much longer makes weight a real issue on a Hawken pattern gun. Some original Hawken rifles were also made with shorter barrels, so this length is historically plausible.

Why does the Southern Mountain Rifle use steel hardware instead of brass?

Most original mountain rifles were made with steel or iron hardware, and Kibler's follows that historical precedent rather than offering a brass option.

Why does the Woodsrunner rifle look different from a typical longrifle?

The Woodsrunner has a lot of Fowler and trade gun architecture mixed with rifle features. It has a tall breech, a wrist that tapers hard down toward the comb, and significant taper forward of the lock, all Fowler and trade gun characteristics, while still having a rifle's flat toe, rifle trigger guard, cheek piece, patch box, and rifled barrel.

Why does the Woodsrunner's patch box have a concave cavity instead of a rectangular one?

The Woodsrunner's patch box has a concave profile to the box cavity rather than a rectangular one, matching the design of the original rifle it is patterned after. That concave shape is what retains the lid and holds the dovetail, and it seems less susceptible to the box binding or loosening in the stock as humidity changes.

Why does the barrel have milling marks when I receive my kit?

The barrel is left in the milled state on purpose rather than sanded, because sanding removes material and can diminish the accuracy of the bore dimensions. The milling marks look worse than they are and are removed later by the builder through draw filing.

Why does the butt plate on the Southern Mountain Rifle kit have counterbored screw holes instead of just countersunk hol

A counterbore pocket works better than a simple countersink on a highly curved surface like a butt plate, especially around the comb extension, so the screw head can sit properly against the curved metal.

Why does the wood humidity level matter when Kibler's machines the stocks?

Stocks are CNC-machined in an environment controlled to around 38 percent humidity to control the size of the wood. Once a kit ships to a different climate, like Arizona or Louisiana, the wood can move slightly, which is why Kibler's checks that every barrel fits before a rifle leaves the shop.

Why does wood closer to the center of the tree look darker?

As you move toward the center of the tree, the wood naturally becomes a somewhat darker color even before any stain is applied.

Why is a brass nose cap installed at the end of the Woodsrunner stock?

The nose cap protects the end grain at the front of the stock, similar to how the entry pipe and butt plate protect end grain elsewhere on the rifle. End grain is more prone to chipping or damage, so covering it with brass hardware protects those vulnerable areas.

Why is it better to have a rifle shoot a little low rather than a little high?

Sights have to be the appropriate height for a rifle to shoot where you are aiming, and there can be some variation between barrels. It is better to have a gun shoot a little low, so you can file down the front sight to bring the point of impact up, than to have it shoot high, which would require building up a taller front sight or filing down the rear sight.

Why is the Fowler kit offered in American black walnut instead of English walnut?

The original guns this kit is based on were made in England and stocked in English or European walnut, but that wood is very hard to get and quite expensive, so Kibler's offers American black walnut as a practical compromise.

Why is the Hawken kit a half stock instead of a full stock?

A half stock, where the wood only extends about halfway down the barrel, was a stylistic characteristic that became common in the early 19th century and is also somewhat easier to manufacture since the barrel channel does not need to be cut the full length of the stock.

Why is the front screw hole for the buttplate offset slightly from the hole in the stock?

The front hole in the buttplate is intentionally offset a small amount from the corresponding hole in the stock so that when the screw is driven and pulled down, it draws the buttplate forward into tight, gap-free contact with the wood.

Will the Hawken be offered in a flintlock configuration?

No. The Hawken will only be offered as a percussion rifle because a flintlock would not be historically appropriate for the period this particular rifle represents.

Can I get a Hawken barrel without the dovetails cut for the sights so I can do that fitting myself?

No, the barrel comes as part of the program with dovetails already cut. Kibler's has found that customizing individual parts for one-off requests is very difficult to do well at production scale and tends to cost far more than it is worth.

Does Kibler's offer payment plans for kit orders?

Kibler's does not run a formal payment plan program, largely because orders already involve a wait time before payment is due, giving customers time to save. On occasion, customers who want to send in payments ahead of time have been accommodated.

How is the Woodsrunner kit packaged for shipping?

The kit ships in a wooden crate that Kibler's builds, which keeps the parts protected in transit. Without a wooden crate, shipping companies tend to damage softer packaging, so the crate is an important part of getting the kit there safely.

What are quick ship rifles and how do they work?

Quick ships are stocks or builds that have some kind of blemish or minor problem, which Kibler's sells rather than scrapping. They show up on the website as they are produced and tend to sell fast, so a customer with an existing order can grab a quick ship they like and swap it in, with payment sorted out afterward.

What is a quick ship order?

A quick ship is a rifle or kit with a minor blemish that is sold as is at a discount timing, allowing a customer who does not mind small imperfections to get a build faster than the normal order queue.

What should I do if my ram rod arrives with a bend in it?

Just bend it the opposite way to straighten it out. A slight bend is not a big deal and can even help the rod stay seated in the stock a little more easily. If it breaks while straightening, contact Kibler's and they will send a replacement.

What should I do if the corner of my investment cast nose cap isn't fully filled out?

An unfilled corner on an investment cast nose cap is a casting fault. If a builder gets a nose cap like this, they should contact Kibler's and it will be replaced without any hassle.

Why does Kibler's ship firearms to an FFL in New York and New Jersey instead of direct to the customer?

Credit card company regulations have forced Kibler's to ship firearms to a Federal Firearms License holder in New York and New Jersey rather than direct to the customer's door in those states.

Why does Kibler's ship kits through USPS instead of UPS?

Kibler's ships through the US Postal Service because shipping through UPS caused significantly more damage to kits. Kibler's covers damage claims for packages shipped through the post office, but does not cover damage for shipments sent through UPS at a customer's request, since UPS insurance would not apply either in that case.

Is the lock included with the kit, or is it billed separately?

The lock is included with the order. It is not billed separately. Older videos describe a separate line item for the lock, but that is no longer how orders are billed.

Woodsrunner, historical influence

The Woodsrunner draws strongly on an actual rifle believed to have been made in the Virginia valley, probably in the 1760s. It reads as a true frontier rifle.

Chisels, what to buy

Pfeil or Swiss Made chisels sold by Woodcraft are a good brand, but a cheaper variety will cut just fine and only needs sharpening more often. Narex is reported to be affordable and decent quality.

Sharpening stones, what to buy

A medium and a fine grit stone are enough. Natural Arkansas, ceramic, or diamond all work. Diamond is very nice but pricy, so Arkansas is a good choice.

Cabinet scraper, what to buy

A cabinet scraper is a square flat piece of steel. Thinner ones around 0.020 to 0.025 inch are best, though any of them will work.

Draw filing, what file to use

Draw filing needs only a flat mill file. An 8 inch file usually works well.

Linseed oil, hardware store grade

Linseed oil bought at a hardware store is not good for this work because it does not dry well.

Tried and True Varnish Oil

Tried and True Varnish Oil is a linseed oil, but much better quality linseed with resin added. It can be cut 50/50 with turpentine for the first coat or two and may take 3 to 4 days to dry without sunlight. Apply very thin coats.

Permalyn Sealer

Permalyn Sealer is not the same as linseed. It dries a lot harder and shinier. Apply very thin coats.

Scrapers before sandpaper

Scrapers are how wood was smoothed before sandpaper existed. Loose metal or abrasives on a piece of felt with oil were also used. This was the second half of the 18th century. Before that it was less common to do much with the wood or the metal.

Lock care - never trip the lock without a flint and a closed frizzen

Never trip the lock without a flint in the cock and the frizzen closed. Doing so can bend the top jaw screw and possibly damage the cock.

Lock care - remove the flint when working the lock by hand

Remove the flint when manually working the lock, because it is sharp. Reinstall the flint before tripping or firing the lock.

Lock care - mainspring vise technique

Use a mainspring vise when removing the mainspring. Compress the spring only enough to remove it while the lock is at rest. Position one leg of the vise near the spring hook so it simulates the spring load in the lock. Back off the vise if the lock will be left unassembled.

Lock care - remove the tumbler with a punch, never by prying

Use a punch to remove the tumbler from the cock. Do not pry it off.

Lock care - store the lock at rest

Store the lock at rest, not at half cock or full cock.

Lock care - never trip the lock at half cock

Do not trip the lock at half cock. It can damage the sear and the tumbler.

Recommended tools - Jim's guidance on quality and selection

Chisels: Pfeil or Swiss Made from Woodcraft are recommended. Cheaper chisels are acceptable if sharpened more often, and Narex is affordable with decent quality. Sharpening: medium and fine grit stones are enough, and Arkansas, ceramic, or diamond stones all work, with Arkansas a good practical choice. Cabinet scraper: useful, preferably a thin square flat scraper around .020 to .025 inches, though any cabinet scraper can work. Draw filing: an 8 inch flat mill file is usually enough.

Recommended tools - full builder checklist

1/8 inch and 1/4 inch chisels; X-Acto style knife and small mallet; sharpening stone; 6 to 8 inch single-cut mill file; 6 to 8 inch half-round fine file; half-round, triangular or 3-square, and flat needle files; center punch, 1/16 inch drill bits, and 1/16 inch pin punch; small hammer, drill, side cutters, pliers or vise grips; screwdrivers and a 2 to 3 inch C-clamp; articulating arm or draftsman lamp; optional jeweler's saw, cabinet scraper, and jack stand prop; 150 to 320 grit abrasive paper for wood and metal; inletting transfer color, wood stain or finish, and metal finishing solution.

Kits

Appalachian Barn Gun — hunting caliber recommendation

For hunting, Jim suggests .45 caliber. Large enough to take whitetail deer and still makes for an easy-handling rifle.

Colonial American Longrifle — caliber-by-caliber notes

.50 rifled = lightest recoil, effective on deer, sensible default. .54 rifled = step up in power. .54 smooth = round ball or shot (confirm state legality). .58 rifled = largest, most knockdown power. .58 smooth = largest smoothbore, same versatility as .54 smooth scaled up.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Caliber lineup

Barn Gun calibers are .32, .36, .40, .45, and .50 cut rifling, plus a .50 smoothbore option.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Recommended hunting caliber

Jim suggests .45 caliber for hunting with the Barn Gun — large enough to take whitetail deer while still being an easy-handling rifle.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Smoothbore option

In addition to five rifled caliber options, the Barn Gun offers a .50 smoothbore option.

Colonial — .50 Rifled notes

.50 Rifled is the lightest-recoiling caliber on the Colonial, economical to shoot and still effective on deer-sized game in most states — a sensible default if unsure.

Colonial — .54 Rifled notes

.54 Rifled is a step up in power from .50, with a modest increase in recoil and cost per shot — a popular middle-ground pick for hunters wanting extra margin.

Colonial — .54 Smooth notes

.54 Smooth (smoothbore) has no rifling, allowing round ball or shot from the same barrel; customers should confirm smoothbore hunting legality in their state.

Colonial — .58 Rifled notes

.58 Rifled is the largest rifled bore on the Colonial — the most power, recoil, and cost per shot in the lineup, best for prioritizing knockdown power over recoil comfort.

Colonial — .58 Smooth notes

.58 Smooth (smoothbore) is the largest smoothbore option, with the same round ball/shot flexibility as .54 Smooth scaled up; confirm smoothbore hunting legality in state before ordering.

Colonial — Caliber lineup

Colonial is offered in .50, .54, and .58 caliber rifled, with smoothbore options available in .54 and .58.

Fowler — Gauge lineup

The Fowler is available in 16 or 20 gauge; 20 gauge is recommended for shooting round ball.

Hawken — Caliber lineup

Hawken is offered in .45, .50, .54, and .58 caliber, all rifled.

SMR — .32 caliber notes

.32 Rifled is SMR's smallest bore: extremely light recoil, inexpensive to shoot, a classic small-game and target caliber.

SMR — .36 caliber notes

.36 Rifled is a step up from .32 with more downrange authority while still very mild to shoot; a popular all-around small-game caliber.

SMR — .40 caliber notes

.40 Rifled is a versatile middle caliber with enough punch for larger small game while staying inexpensive to shoot regularly.

SMR — .45 caliber notes

.45 Rifled is the largest bore offered on the SMR — still mild compared to the full-size Colonial or Woodsrunner calibers but with more margin for larger game.

SMR — Caliber lineup

SMR is offered in .32, .36, .40, and .45 caliber, all rifled.

Woodsrunner — .45 Rifled notes

.45 Rifled is the smallest-bore option on the Woodsrunner — mild recoil, inexpensive to shoot, good for a first flintlock or frequent shooting, well suited to targets and small game.

Woodsrunner — .50 Rifled notes

.50 Rifled is the most popular all-around choice on the Woodsrunner — enough power for deer-sized game in most states while staying easy to load and shoot regularly.

Woodsrunner — .50 Smooth notes

.50 Smooth (smoothbore) is patterned after early smoothbore/fowling-style barrels, good for shooting round ball and shot from the same barrel; check state regulations before hunting with it.

Woodsrunner — .54 Rifled notes

.54 Rifled is the largest rifled bore on the Woodsrunner — more recoil and cost per shot than .45 or .50, with extra margin for larger game.

Woodsrunner — .54 Smooth notes

.54 Smooth (smoothbore) is the largest smoothbore option, with the same round ball/shot versatility as .50 Smooth and more punch; confirm state hunting legality.

Woodsrunner — Caliber lineup

Woodsrunner is offered in .45, .50, and .54 caliber.

All kits ship unassembled — photos are examples

Rifle is shipped in unassembled kit form. Photos of finished rifles on product pages are examples of what can be done.

Finishing referral — Chuck Edwards

Kibler does not finish rifles in house. For finishing work on a Kibler rifle, Kibler recommends gunsmith Chuck Edwards ((573) 421-5098, Facebook: ChuckEdwardsFlintLocks). He has finished many Kibler rifles. Pricing varies by work and should be discussed with Chuck.

Handedness across the lineup

Right-hand only: Southern Mountain Rifle, Colonial American Longrifle, Woodsrunner Rifle, Kibler Fowler ("right hand only at this time"), J.K. Hawken Rifle. Right or left hand: Appalachian Barn Gun (flintlock and percussion, each in both).

Ignition across the lineup

Flintlock: SMR, Colonial, Woodsrunner, Fowler, Barn Gun (flintlock variants). Percussion: J.K. Hawken, Barn Gun (percussion variants).

In-the-white assembly service

Available as an add-on: SMR $700, Colonial $700, Woodsrunner $525, Fowler $525. Kit arrives fully assembled, ready for the customer to finish. Fowler service is arranged by phone (330-551-5844) or email (info@kiblerslongrifles.com).

Kibler positioning statement (repeated on every kit)

"The design is ours and the machining is ours. The hand work, and the satisfaction, are yours."

Locks included in every kit

SMR: Kibler CNC Ketland lock. Colonial: Kibler CNC Round-Faced English lock. Woodsrunner: Round-Faced English lock. Fowler: CNC Round-Faced English lock. Hawken: Kibler CNC Hawken percussion lock. Barn Gun: late Ketland flintlock. The listed kit price always includes the lock.

Quick Ship alternative

For customers who need a rifle faster than the standard wait, Kibler maintains a "Quick Ship" collection with kits already prepared and ready to ship.

Standard wait times

Wait times approximately 1-2 months for SMR, Colonial, Woodsrunner, Fowler, and Barn Gun. Wait times approximately 1-3 months for the J.K. Hawken.

US shipping cost estimate

US shipping typically runs around $75-$100 per rifle kit, varies by location.

Wood option grid (shared across kits)

Standard Maple: 5-35% curl, always in stock, fastest to ship. Fancy Maple +$225: 35-65% curl, figure "pops" with stain. Extra Fancy Maple +$425: 65-90% curl, most dramatic figure, longer wait. Walnut +$225: straighter grain, darker tone, needs less stain. Cherry: fine tight grain, deepens and reddens with age. Customer-Supplied Stock -$60: customer wood, customer bears defect risk.

Colonial American Longrifle — customer-supplied stock minimum

Minimum blank size 2.5" × 60" × 7". Save $60. Customer bears risk for hidden defects.

J.K. Hawken Rifle — customer-supplied stock minimum

Customer wood size: 31" × 6" × 2". Save $40 vs Maple/Cherry.

Southern Mountain Rifle — customer-supplied stock minimum

Minimum blank size 2" × 61" × 7". Save $60 vs standard maple. Customer bears risk for hidden checks, knots, and high moisture.

Woodsrunner Rifle — customer-supplied stock minimum

Customer wood needs to be 57.5" long and 2.25" thick.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Barrel profile

The Barn Gun is built around a 38-inch swamped barrel, and the finished rifle is light and well balanced, comfortable for most shooters.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Build difficulty

Because the design is simple with fewer parts, the Barn Gun is one of the easiest builds Kibler offers, and a good first project to build alongside a son, daughter, or grandchild.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Design simplicity

The Barn Gun has no buttplate, no nose cap, no entry pipe, no sideplate, and no patchbox, true to the original design.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Barrel dimensions

Barn Gun barrel is 38" swamped, 1.00" at the breech and .750" at the waist.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Drop at heel and comb

Barn Gun drop at heel is 2 3/4"; drop at comb is 1 5/8".

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Pull length

Barn Gun length of pull is 13 3/8".

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Trigger pull weight

Barn Gun trigger is a single trigger with approximately a 2 1/2 lb pull.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Weight

Barn Gun weight is approximately 6 to 7 lbs, varying by caliber.

Colonial — Barrel breech/waist

Colonial barrel breech is 1.125", waist is approximately .800".

Colonial — Barrel length

Colonial barrel is 43.25" and custom-profiled.

Colonial — Barrel rifling

Colonial barrel is nicely contoured and standard in square-bottom rifling.

Colonial — Buttplate size

Colonial buttplate is approximately 2" wide and slightly over 5" tall.

Colonial — Drop and cast-off

Colonial drop is approximately 2 3/4", with cast-off approximately 3/16".

Colonial — Pull length

Colonial length of pull is about 13 5/8".

Fowler — Barrel construction

The Fowler includes a thin-walled, lightweight 3-stage barrel: a round forward section, a shorter round section of larger diameter, and an octagon breech.

Fowler — Overall and barrel length

Fowler overall length is about 60"; barrel length is 44".

Fowler — Pull length

Fowler length of pull is 13 5/8".

Fowler — Weight by gauge

The 16 gauge Fowler weighs about 6 1/2 lbs; the 20 gauge weighs about 7 lbs.

Hawken — Barrel length and profile

Hawken barrel length is 31" to the standing breech; barrel profile is tapered, 1.062" at the breech and .900" at the muzzle.

Hawken — Barrel twist

Hawken barrel twist ranges from 1:48 to 1:70 depending on caliber and manufacturer.

Hawken — Drop and cast-off

Hawken drop in stock is 3.5" drop at the heel measured from the sights, with no cast-off.

Hawken — Finished weight

Hawken finished weight is approximately 8.5 lbs for .45 caliber and 7.5 lbs for .58 caliber.

Hawken — Pull length

Hawken length of pull is 13 5/8".

SMR — Barrel breech/waist

SMR barrel breech is .938", waist is approximately .700".

SMR — Barrel length

SMR barrel is 44" and custom-profiled.

SMR — Barrel rifling

SMR barrel is nicely contoured and standard in square-bottom rifling.

SMR — Buttplate size

SMR buttplate is approximately 1.375" wide and 4.5" tall.

SMR — Drop and cast-off

SMR drop is approximately 3 5/8", with no cast-off.

SMR — Pull length

SMR length of pull is about 13.75".

Woodsrunner — Barrel length

Woodsrunner barrel length is 39 3/4", nicely swamped.

Woodsrunner — Buttplate size

Woodsrunner butt width is 2", butt height is 5".

Woodsrunner — Drop at heel/comb

Woodsrunner drop at heel is 3" to 3 1/4", drop at comb is 1 3/4" to 2".

Woodsrunner — Pull and cast-off

Woodsrunner pull is 13 7/16", cast-off is 3/16".

Woodsrunner — Weight

Woodsrunner finished weight is 7 1/2 to 8 lbs, described as very handy and easy to carry.

Appalachian Barn Gun — left-hand availability

Barn Gun is available in both right-hand and left-hand configurations, in both flintlock and percussion. Left-hand is a distinguishing feature — all other Kibler kits are right-hand only.

Barn Gun Flintlock (Left Hand) — Handedness

This Barn Gun variant is left hand, with a true left-hand lock and stock (not a mirrored right-hand part).

Barn Gun Flintlock (Right Hand) — Handedness

This Barn Gun variant is right hand.

Barn Gun Percussion (Left Hand) — Handedness

This Barn Gun variant is left hand, with a true left-hand lock and stock (not a mirrored right-hand part).

Barn Gun Percussion (Right Hand) — Handedness

This Barn Gun variant is right hand.

Colonial — Handedness availability

Colonial is available right hand only.

Fowler — Handedness availability

The Fowler is available right hand only at this time.

Hawken — Handedness availability

The Hawken kit is available right hand only.

SMR — Handedness availability

SMR is available right hand only.

Woodsrunner — Handedness availability

Woodsrunner is available right hand only.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Family-build appeal

The Barn Gun's simplicity and fewer parts mean more time is spent on the actual hand work, which Kibler frames as ideal for a first project built alongside a son, daughter, or grandchild.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Historical role

Barn guns were plain working rifles built for use rather than show — the rifles that fed families and stayed by the door in some of the most rugged country in the eastern United States.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Origin

Jim drew the Appalachian Barn Gun directly from an original barn gun in a friend's collection, so it is true to the period in both spirit and detail.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Period and origin

The Appalachian Barn Gun's period and origin is Appalachian, 1800 to 1830.

Colonial — Origin

The Colonial American Longrifle Kit is built after full-size American longrifles of the 1760s and 1770s.

Colonial — Styling representativeness

Colonial styling is representative of rifles made in many of the American colonies during the 1760s-1770s.

Fowler — Common arm framing

The Fowler represents one of the most common firearms of its period, sold widely at general stores in the colonies rather than being a specialty piece.

Fowler — Origin

The Fowler is styled after smoothbores produced in England and exported to the colonies in the 1760s and 1770s, sold at general stores and among the most common firearms of the day.

Hawken — Origin

The J.K. Hawken is Kibler's take on the Hawken plains rifle of the mid-1800s St. Louis and western frontier, the half-stock percussion rifle that went west with hunters and travelers.

Hawken — Reliability positioning

The Hawken is described as reliable and straightforward, making it a good first muzzleloader for many builders because it is percussion rather than flintlock.

SMR — Era vs other kits

SMR is a later style than Kibler's Revolution-era kits (Colonial, Woodsrunner) — lean and plain where those are brass-mounted and ornate.

SMR — Origin

The Southern Mountain Rifle is built after the 1820s work of Whitson in western North Carolina.

Woodsrunner — Origin

The Woodsrunner is patterned after an original frontier rifle believed to have been made in Virginia in the 1760s, often called the "Woodsrunner."

Appalachian Barn Gun — historical basis

Appalachian, 1800-1830. Jim drew this one directly from an original barn gun in a friend's collection. Configurations: flintlock or percussion, right or left hand (four total product listings).

J.K. Hawken Rifle — historical basis

Hawken plains rifle of the mid-1800s St. Louis and western frontier. Half-stock percussion. Kibler describes the kit as "authentic to the spirit of the originals" rather than a direct copy.

Southern Mountain Rifle — historical basis

Styled after 1820s work of Whitson in western North Carolina. Iron-mounted style is distinctly Appalachian and later than the brass-mounted colonial longrifles.

Woodsrunner Rifle — historical basis

Patterned after an original frontier rifle, often called the "Woodsrunner," believed made in Virginia in the 1760s.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Everything included at base price

Barn Gun base price includes everything: lock, barrel, stock, and all hardware.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Hardware details

Barn Gun hardware is iron throughout, with a triggerguard pattern hand-forged by Ian Pratt, two ramrod pipes, and lock bolt washers.

Colonial — Included parts list

Colonial kit includes: stock, barrel, lock, trigger and plate, touch hole liner (installed), buttplate, trigger guard, entry pipe, two forward ramrod pipes, nose cap, side plate, underlugs, ramrod, ramrod tip, front and rear sights, lock bolts, tang bolt, sliding wood box lid, box lid catch spring, pin stock, buttplate screws, and a drill guide/bushing kit.

Fowler — Included parts list

Fowler kit includes: stock, barrel, lock, brass thumb piece, trigger and plate, touch hole liner (installed in barrel), buttplate, trigger guard, entry pipe, two forward ramrod pipes, side plate, ramrod, ramrod tip, front sight (soldered onto barrel), lock bolts, tang bolt, pin stock, and buttplate screws.

Kibler Fowler — stock features

CNC-machined stock with relief shell carving around the tang, relief lock moldings, and beaver tails. All holes drilled. Minimal part fitting required. Breech plug fully machined and shaped.

SMR — Included parts list

SMR kit includes: stock, barrel, CNC Ketland lock, Kibler double-set trigger, touch hole liner, buttplate, trigger guard, 3 ramrod pipes, lock bolt washer, 4 underlugs, 5/16 hickory ramrod, tapered ramrod tip, front sight, rear sight, lock bolt, forward tang bolt, rear tang bolt, .037" pin stock, buttplate screws, and a drill guide kit (drills, guide, and tap).

Southern Mountain Rifle — included parts

Stock, barrel, CNC Ketland lock, Kibler double-set trigger, touch hole liner, buttplate, trigger guard, 3 ramrod pipes, lock bolt washer, 4 underlugs, 5/16 hickory ramrod, tapered ramrod tip, front and rear sights, lock bolt, forward tang bolt, rear tang bolt, .037" pin stock, buttplate screws, drill guide kit (drills, guide, tap).

Woodsrunner — Included parts list

Woodsrunner kit includes: stock, barrel, lock, trigger and plate, touch hole liner (installed in barrel), buttplate, trigger guard, entry pipe, two forward ramrod pipes, nose cap, side plate, ramrod, ramrod tip, front and rear sights, lock bolts, tang bolt, sliding wood box lid, box lid catch spring, pin stock, and buttplate screws.

Barn Gun Flintlock (Left Hand) — Shipping start date

Kibler expects to begin shipping the Flintlock Left-Hand Barn Gun configuration around July 15; this is when shipping of this configuration starts, not the date a specific order arrives.

Barn Gun Flintlock (Right Hand) — Shipping start date

Kibler expects to begin shipping the Flintlock Right-Hand Barn Gun configuration around June 15; this is when shipping of this configuration starts, not the date a specific order arrives.

Barn Gun Percussion (Left Hand) — Shipping start date

Kibler expects to begin shipping the Percussion Left-Hand Barn Gun configuration around August 1, the same target date as the right-hand percussion version.

Barn Gun Percussion (Right Hand) — Shipping start date

Kibler expects to begin shipping the Percussion Right-Hand Barn Gun configuration around August 1; this is when shipping of this configuration starts, not the date a specific order arrives.

Colonial — Quick Ship option

Customers in a hurry should check the 'Quick Ship' collection for kits ready to ship without the standard wait.

Colonial — Wait time

Colonial wait times are approximately 1-2 months.

Fowler — Quick Ship option

Customers in a hurry should check the 'Quick Ship' collection for kits ready to ship without the standard wait.

Fowler — Wait time

Fowler wait times are approximately 1-2 months.

Hawken — Wait time

Hawken wait times are approximately 1-3 months.

SMR — Quick Ship option

Customers in a hurry should check the 'Quick Ship' collection for kits ready to ship without the standard wait.

SMR — Wait time

SMR wait times are approximately 1-2 months.

Woodsrunner — Quick Ship option

Customers in a hurry should check the 'Quick Ship' collection for kits ready to ship without the standard wait.

Woodsrunner — Wait time

Woodsrunner wait times are approximately 1-2 months.

Appalachian Barn Gun — grease hole recommendation

Grease hole is a recommended option. Holds a small amount of patch lubricant, is traditional on this style of rifle, and looks right at home. Available in every wood/caliber configuration alongside a "No Grease Hole" variant.

Colonial American Longrifle — patchbox choice

Wood Patch Box (traditional sliding wood lid, historical Colonial-era pattern) or No Patch Box (solid buttstock, simpler to finish, slightly lighter). No price difference between the two.

J.K. Hawken Rifle — inlay and patchbox choices

Inlay Package (+$110): German silver oval cheek and key escutcheons. Patchbox (+$190): iron. Sold as independent options — customer can pick either, both, or neither.

Kibler Fowler — wood recommendation

Walnut is encouraged. Also available in maple and cherry. Minimum customer blank 62" × 2" × 8".

Woodsrunner Rifle — carving choices

No Carving (fastest to finish). CNC Relief Carving +$295 (raised, dimensional, pairs with fancy maple). CNC Incised Carving +$415 (cut into surface, flatter, less bump-prone during handling and finishing). Comb pattern: pick option or write "Surprise Me" in order notes.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Grease hole option

The grease hole is a suggested add-on that holds a small amount of patch lubricant; it is traditional on this style of rifle and is offered at no extra charge.

Hawken — Inlay Package price

The optional Inlay Package (German silver oval cheek and key escutcheons) adds $110 to any wood/patchbox combination.

Hawken — Patchbox + Inlay combined price

Adding both the patchbox and inlay package together adds $300 total ($190 + $110) over the base wood price.

Hawken — Patchbox add-on price

The optional iron patchbox adds $190 to any wood/inlay combination.

Woodsrunner — CNC Incised Carved price

CNC Incised Carved is an optional add-on for $415, done on Kibler's CNC machine; carving is cut into the surface rather than raised, for a flatter, more subdued look.

Woodsrunner — CNC Relief Carving price

CNC Relief Carving is an optional add-on for $295, done on Kibler's CNC machine; pairs especially well with standard or fancy maple.

Woodsrunner — Comb carving "Surprise Me" option

For relief-carved combs, customers can choose "Surprise Me" (comb carving option 3) in order notes and let Kibler select the pattern.

Woodsrunner — No Carving option

No Carving is the default, undecorated stock option — fastest to finish since there's no carved detail to work stain and finish around.

Appalachian Barn Gun — as a first/family build

Because the design is simple, this is one of the easiest builds Kibler offers. Marketed as a good first project, and one to build alongside a son, daughter, or grandchild. Fewer parts, simpler assembly, more time on the work itself.

Appalachian Barn Gun — positioning

A plain working rifle built for use rather than show. No buttplate, no nose cap, no entry pipe, no sideplate, no patchbox. The rifles that "fed families and stayed by the door" in the most rugged country in the eastern US. Jim drew it directly from an original barn gun in a friend's collection, true to the period.

Colonial American Longrifle — positioning

The full-size American longrifle built after rifles of the 1760s-1770s. Bigger, stronger, bolder architecture than the Woodsrunner, longer barrel, more presence in the hand. The rifle for a builder who wants the classic full-size longrifle and is ready for a larger, more involved project.

J.K. Hawken Rifle — positioning

Kibler take on the Hawken plains rifle of the mid-1800s St. Louis and western frontier — the half-stock percussion rifle that went west with hunters and travelers. Authentic to the spirit of the originals. Percussion (reliable, straightforward) makes it a good first muzzleloader. Rated easy for beginners.

Kibler Fowler — positioning

Classic English smoothbore. Styled after smoothbores produced in England and exported to the colonies in the 1760s-1770s — the kind sold at general stores and among the most common firearms of the day. "It is the sort of gun an American would have carried." A favorite for re-enactors.

Southern Mountain Rifle — positioning

The Southern Mountain Rifle is the slim, iron-mounted rifle of the southern Appalachians, built after the 1820s work of Whitson in western North Carolina. Later style than the Revolution-era kits — lean and plain where the longrifles are brass-mounted and ornate. Small-bore options make it light to carry and economical to shoot; favored for offhand and small game.

Woodsrunner Rifle — positioning

The most approachable longrifle in the lineup — the one first-time builders and gift-givers get pointed to. Light, easy to carry, friendly first build. Patterned after an original frontier rifle believed made in Virginia in the 1760s and called the "Woodsrunner."

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Cherry price delta

Cherry is priced the same as plain hard maple, with no price delta.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Customer-supplied stock price delta

Customer-supplied stock reduces the Barn Gun price by $60 from the plain hard maple base.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Extra Fancy Curly Maple price delta

Extra Fancy Curly Maple adds $425 over the plain hard maple base price.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Fancy Curly Maple / Walnut price delta

Fancy Curly Maple or Walnut adds $225 over the plain hard maple base price.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Standard Curly Maple price delta

Standard Curly Maple adds $40 over the plain hard maple base price.

Appalachian Barn Gun — kit pricing

From $1,100 with Plain Hard Maple or Cherry (grease hole). Standard Curly Maple +$40. Fancy Curly Maple +$225. Extra Fancy Curly Maple +$425. Walnut +$225. Customer-supplied stock -$60. Everything included — lock, barrel, stock, all hardware. No deposit required.

Barn Gun Flintlock (Left Hand) — Base price

The Flintlock Left-Hand Barn Gun starts at $1,100, same base price as the right-hand flintlock version.

Barn Gun Flintlock (Right Hand) — Base price

The Flintlock Right-Hand Barn Gun starts at $1,100.

Barn Gun Percussion (Left Hand) — Base price

The Percussion Left-Hand Barn Gun starts at $995, same base price as the right-hand percussion version.

Barn Gun Percussion (Right Hand) — Base price

The Percussion Right-Hand Barn Gun starts at $995.

Colonial American Longrifle — kit pricing

Standard Maple or Cherry $1,375. Fancy Maple or Walnut $1,600. Extra Fancy Maple $1,800. Customer-supplied stock $1,315. Sliding wood patchbox available at no extra charge. In-the-white assembly add-on $700.

Colonial — Base price

Colonial base kit price is $1375 in Standard Maple (approx. 5-35% curl) or Cherry.

Colonial — Top price

Colonial top price is $1800 for Extra Fancy Maple (approx. 65-90% curl).

Fowler — Base price

Fowler base kit price is $1560 in Standard Maple (approx. 5-35% curl) or Cherry.

Fowler — Top price

Fowler top price is $1985 for Extra Fancy Maple (approx. 65-90% curl).

Hawken — Base price

Hawken base kit price is $1725 in Maple or Cherry, no patchbox, no inlay package.

Hawken — Cherry price

Cherry is priced the same as standard Maple on the Hawken, with a base price of $1725.

Hawken — Top price

Hawken top price is $2375 for Extra Fancy Maple with both the patchbox and inlay package.

J.K. Hawken Rifle — full price matrix

Base prices: Maple/Cherry $1,725, Fancy Maple/Walnut $1,900, Extra Fancy Maple $2,075, Customer Wood $1,685. Inlay Package add-on +$110 (German silver oval cheek and key escutcheons). Iron Patchbox add-on +$190. Both add-ons combined tops out at $2,375 for Extra Fancy Maple.

Kibler Fowler — kit pricing

Standard Maple or Cherry $1,560. Fancy Maple or Walnut $1,785. Extra Fancy Maple $1,985. Customer-supplied stock $1,500. In-the-white $525 (arrange by phone or email).

SMR — Base price

SMR base kit price is $1375 in Standard Maple (approx. 5-35% curl) or Cherry.

SMR — Top price

SMR top price is $1800 for Extra Fancy Maple (approx. 65-90% curl).

Southern Mountain Rifle — kit pricing

Standard Maple or Cherry $1,375. Fancy Maple or Walnut $1,600. Extra Fancy Maple $1,800. Customer-supplied stock $1,315. Includes Kibler CNC Ketland lock. US shipping typically $75-$100.

Woodsrunner Rifle — kit pricing

Standard Maple or Cherry $1,435. Fancy Maple or Walnut $1,660. Extra Fancy Maple $1,860. Customer-supplied stock $1,375. Carving optional: Relief +$295, Incised +$415. In-the-white assembly add-on $525.

Woodsrunner — Base price

Woodsrunner base kit price is $1435 in Standard Maple (approx. 5-35% curl) or Cherry.

Woodsrunner — Highest priced variant overall

With Incised Carving added, the Woodsrunner's top variant price reaches $2275 (Extra Fancy Maple or Walnut + CNC Incised Carved).

Woodsrunner — Top price

Woodsrunner top price (wood only, no carving) is $1860 for Extra Fancy Maple (approx. 65-90% curl).

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Barrel style

The Barn Gun barrel is swamped (tapered and flared), the same general barrel style used on Kibler's longrifle kits, scaled to 38 inches.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Design and machining ownership

The Barn Gun's design and machining are Kibler's own; the hand work and finishing are left to the builder.

Barn Gun Flintlock (Left Hand) — Ignition

This Barn Gun variant uses flintlock ignition, specifically a late Ketland lock.

Barn Gun Flintlock (Right Hand) — Ignition

This Barn Gun variant uses flintlock ignition, specifically a late Ketland lock.

Barn Gun Percussion (Left Hand) — Ignition

This Barn Gun variant uses percussion ignition, specifically a drum-type percussion setup.

Barn Gun Percussion (Right Hand) — Ignition

This Barn Gun variant uses percussion ignition, specifically a drum-type percussion setup.

Colonial — Barrel machining details

Colonial barrel has all sight dovetails cut, underlugs machined in, and a White Lightning style touch hole liner pre-installed; breech plug and tang are fully machined, shaped, and installed.

Colonial — Lock

The Round-Faced English lock is included with the Colonial kit.

Colonial — Mounting material

The Colonial is brass mounted.

Colonial — Shipping form

Colonial ships in unassembled kit form; product photos of finished rifles are examples of what can be done, not the as-shipped state.

Colonial — Size vs Woodsrunner

The Colonial carries bigger, stronger, bolder architecture than the Woodsrunner, with a longer barrel and more presence in the hand.

Colonial — Target builder

Colonial is positioned for builders who want the classic full-size longrifle and are ready for a larger, more involved project.

Colonial — Trigger setup

Colonial is set up for a single trigger (not double-set).

Fowler — Build approachability

Like the Woodsrunner, the Fowler is one of Kibler's more approachable builds.

Fowler — Design and machining ownership

The Fowler's design and machining are Kibler's own; the hand work and finishing are left to the builder.

Fowler — Gun type

The Fowler is a smoothbore, not a rifled gun — a common arm of the period.

Fowler — Lock

The Round-Faced English lock is included with the Fowler kit.

Fowler — Mounting material

The Fowler has brass hardware, including a relief-cast thumb piece.

Fowler — No rear sight rationale

The Fowler ships without a rear sight, consistent with period smoothbore fowling guns meant for wing and running-game shooting rather than precision aiming.

Fowler — Re-enactor fit

The Fowler is a classic English design and a favorite among re-enactors.

Fowler — Shipping form

Fowler ships in unassembled kit form; product photos of finished guns are examples of what can be done, not the as-shipped state.

Fowler — Sights

The Fowler has a front sight (soldered onto the barrel) and pre-drilled underlugs soldered on; there is no rear sight.

Fowler — Stock carving

The Fowler stock is CNC machined with a relief shell carving around the tang, relief lock moldings, and beaver tails as standard details.

Fowler — Stock machining

Fowler stock is CNC machined for close tolerances and a fine surface finish; all holes are drilled and minimal part fitting is required. Breech plug is fully machined and shaped.

Fowler — Trigger setup

The Fowler is set up for a single trigger.

Hawken — Beginner suitability

Kibler rates the Hawken easy for beginners because the inletting and hard machining are already done; builders still finish wood and metal but don't need a shop full of tools or prior gunsmithing experience.

Hawken — Design and machining ownership

The Hawken's design and machining are Kibler's own; the hand work and finishing are left to the builder.

Hawken — Difficulty rating

Kibler's estimated difficulty level for the Hawken is "easy" for beginners.

Hawken — Ignition type

The J.K. Hawken is a percussion rifle, not a flintlock.

Hawken — Interchangeable barrels

Hawken barrels are interchangeable with fixed outer dimensions, allowing caliber swaps on the same stock inlet.

Hawken — Lock

The Hawken percussion lock, Kibler's own CNC design, is included with the kit.

Hawken — Patchbox

The Hawken has an optional iron patchbox (not standard).

Hawken — Price list scope

Kibler's published Hawken price list explicitly states that all listed prices include the Kibler percussion lock.

Hawken — Trigger setup

The Hawken uses double-set triggers.

SMR — Barrel machining details

SMR barrel has all sight dovetails cut, underlugs machined in, and a White Lightning style touch hole liner pre-installed; breech plug is fully machined, shaped, fit, and installed.

SMR — Customer wood minimum size

Customer-supplied stock for SMR must be a minimum blank of 2" x 61" x 7".

SMR — Lock

The Ketland lock is included with the SMR kit.

SMR — Mounting material

The Southern Mountain Rifle is iron mounted (not brass).

SMR — Shipping form

SMR ships in unassembled kit form; product photos of finished rifles are examples of what can be done, not the as-shipped state.

SMR — Stock machining

SMR stock is CNC machined to close tolerances with all holes drilled and minimal part fitting required.

SMR — Trigger setup

SMR ships set up with Kibler's CNC machined double-set triggers.

SMR — Use case

Small-bore options make the SMR light to carry and economical to shoot, making it a favorite for offhand shooting and small game.

Woodsrunner — Build difficulty

The Woodsrunner's hard machining is done before shipping, so it can be finished with patience and a basic set of hand tools.

Woodsrunner — Lock

The Round-Faced English lock is included with the Woodsrunner kit.

Woodsrunner — Mounting material

The Woodsrunner has brass hardware.

Woodsrunner — Patchbox

The Woodsrunner includes a sliding wood patchbox as standard.

Woodsrunner — Positioning

The Woodsrunner is Kibler's most approachable longrifle, recommended first for first-time builders and gift-givers.

Woodsrunner — Shipping form

Woodsrunner ships in unassembled kit form; product photos of finished rifles are examples of what can be done, not the as-shipped state.

Woodsrunner — Trigger setup

The Woodsrunner has a single trigger.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Deposit policy

No deposit is required to place a Barn Gun order.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Intro pricing tag

The Barn Gun product listings carry an "intro-pricing" tag; this pricing is intentional and is expected to remain in place for now.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Pricing philosophy

Because the Barn Gun's design is plain, Kibler can offer it at a lower price than their other kits, putting a traditionally built muzzleloader within reach of more people.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Printable spec sheet

A printable spec sheet (PDF) is downloadable for the Barn Gun.

Colonial — Finishing referral

Kibler does not finish rifles in-house; they recommend gunsmith Chuck Edwards, reachable at (573) 421-5098, for additional finishing work, with pricing discussed directly with him.

Colonial — In the White service price

"In the White" assembled-kit service is available as an add-on for $700, added as a separate product selecting the Colonial option; the kit arrives assembled, ready to customize and finish.

Colonial — Shipping cost

U.S. shipping for Colonial typically runs around $75-$100 but varies based on location.

Fowler — In the White service price

"In the White" assembled-kit service is available as an add-on for $525; to add it, contact the office at 330-551-5844 or info@kiblerslongrifles.com. The kit arrives assembled, ready to customize and finish.

Fowler — Shipping cost

U.S. shipping for Fowler typically runs around $75-$100 but varies based on location.

Hawken — Downloadable specs

PDF downloadable versions of the Hawken specifications and price list are available on Kibler's downloads page.

Hawken — Selection guide

Kibler publishes a guide on how to choose a Hawken rifle kit to help customers decide on options.

SMR — Finishing referral

Kibler does not finish rifles in-house; they recommend gunsmith Chuck Edwards, reachable at (573) 421-5098, for additional finishing work, with pricing discussed directly with him.

SMR — In the White service price

"In the White" assembled-kit service is available as an add-on for $700; the kit arrives assembled, ready to customize and finish.

SMR — Shipping cost

U.S. shipping for SMR typically runs around $75-$100 but varies based on location.

Woodsrunner — Finishing referral

Kibler does not finish rifles in-house; they recommend gunsmith Chuck Edwards, reachable at (573) 421-5098, for additional finishing work, with pricing discussed directly with him.

Woodsrunner — In the White service price

"In the White" assembled-kit service is available as an add-on for $525, added as a separate product selecting the Woodsrunner option; the kit arrives assembled, ready to customize and finish.

Woodsrunner — Shipping cost

U.S. shipping for Woodsrunner typically runs around $75-$100 but varies based on location.

Appalachian Barn Gun — mechanical specs

Flintlock, late Ketland lock (right hand). Calibers .32, .36, .40, .45, .50 cut rifling plus .50 smoothbore. 38" swamped barrel, 1.00" at breech, .750" at waist. Length of pull 13 3/8", drop at heel 2 3/4", drop at comb 1 5/8". Single trigger ~2.5 lb pull. Weight ~6-7 lbs depending on caliber. Iron hardware throughout. Triggerguard pattern hand-forged by Ian Pratt. Two ramrod pipes, lock bolt washers. Period: Appalachian 1800-1830.

Colonial American Longrifle — mechanical specs

Flintlock. Kibler CNC Round-Faced English lock included. Calibers .50, .54, .58 rifled plus .54 and .58 smoothbore. Brass-mounted. 43.25" custom-profiled barrel, breech 1.125", waist ~.800", square-bottom rifling. Pull ~13 5/8", drop ~2 3/4", cast-off ~3/16". Buttplate ~2" wide × slightly over 5" tall. Single trigger. Right hand only.

J.K. Hawken Rifle — mechanical specs

Percussion. Kibler CNC Hawken percussion lock included. Calibers .45, .50, .54, .58 rifled. Barrel twist 1:48 to 1:70 depending on caliber. Half-stock. 31" barrel to standing breech. Tapered profile: 1.062" at breech, .900" at muzzle. Interchangeable barrels (fixed outer dimensions). Length of pull 13 5/8", drop at heel 3.5", no cast-off. Double-set triggers. Weight ~8.5 lbs (.45) to ~7.5 lbs (.58). Right hand only.

Kibler Fowler — mechanical specs

Flintlock smoothbore. CNC Round-Faced English lock. 16 or 20 gauge (20 gauge recommended for round ball). Weight ~6.5 lbs (16 ga) or ~7 lbs (20 ga). Length of pull 13 5/8". Overall ~60", 44" barrel. Thin-walled lightweight 3-stage barrel: round forward, larger-diameter round middle, octagon breech. Soldered front sight, no rear sight. Brass hardware including relief-cast thumb piece. Single trigger. Right hand only at this time.

Southern Mountain Rifle — mechanical specs

Flintlock, iron-mounted. Kibler CNC Ketland lock included. Calibers .32, .36, .40, .45 rifled. 44" custom-profiled barrel, breech .938", waist ~.700", square-bottom rifling. Pull ~13.75", drop ~3 5/8", no cast-off. Buttplate ~1.375" wide × 4.5" tall. Kibler CNC double-set triggers. Right hand only.

Woodsrunner Rifle — mechanical specs

Flintlock. Round-Faced English lock included. Calibers .45, .50, .54 (rifled) plus .50 and .54 smoothbore. 39 3/4" swamped barrel. Weight 7.5-8 lbs. Pull 13 7/16", cast-off 3/16". Drop at heel 3-3.25", drop at comb 1.75-2". Butt width 2", butt height 5". Brass hardware. Single trigger. Sliding wood patchbox. Right hand only.

Colonial — No Patch Box description

The No Patch Box option is a solid buttstock with no storage cavity — simpler to finish and slightly lighter.

Colonial — Patchbox option

Colonial is available with or without a sliding wood patchbox, at no additional charge.

Colonial — Wood Patch Box description

The Wood Patch Box is a traditional sliding wood box lid built into the buttstock for storing patches, a spare flint, or small tools, matching the historical Colonial-era pattern.

J.K. Hawken Rifle — wait time

Wait times approximately 1-3 months (longer window than the 1-2 months quoted on the other kits).

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Plain Hard Maple description

Plain Hard Maple is the Barn Gun's base wood option, with no curl or figure premium, and is the least expensive stock choice.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Standard Curly Maple description

Standard Curly Maple is a step up from plain hard maple, adding modest figure for $40.

Appalachian Barn Gun Kit — Wood option lineup

Barn Gun stock wood options are plain hard maple (standard/base wood), standard curly maple, fancy curly maple, extra fancy curly maple, walnut, and cherry.

Colonial — Customer wood minimum size

Customer-supplied stock for Colonial must be a minimum blank of 2 1/2" x 60" x 7".

Colonial — Customer-supplied stock price

Customer-supplied stock reduces Colonial price by $60, to $1315.

Colonial — Extra Fancy Maple lead time note

Extra Fancy Maple blanks are rarer and can carry a longer wait than the rest of the wood lineup on the Colonial.

Colonial — Extra Fancy Maple price

Extra Fancy Maple adds $425, bringing Colonial to $1800.

Colonial — Fancy Maple / Walnut price

Fancy Maple or Walnut adds $225, bringing Colonial to $1600.

Fowler — Customer wood minimum size

Customer-supplied stock for the Fowler must be a minimum blank of 62" x 2" x 8".

Fowler — Customer-supplied stock price

Customer-supplied stock reduces Fowler price by $60, to $1500.

Fowler — Extra Fancy Maple price

Extra Fancy Maple adds $425, bringing Fowler to $1985.

Fowler — Fancy Maple / Walnut price

Fancy Maple or Walnut adds $225, bringing Fowler to $1785.

Fowler — Recommended wood

Walnut is the encouraged wood choice for the Fowler; it is also available in maple and cherry.

Hawken — Customer wood minimum size

Customer-supplied stock for the Hawken must be sized 31" x 6" x 2".

Hawken — Customer-supplied stock price

Customer-supplied stock reduces the Hawken price by $40, to $1685 base.

Hawken — Extra Fancy Maple price

Extra Fancy Maple adds $350 to the Hawken base, bringing it to $2075.

Hawken — Fancy Maple price

Fancy Maple adds $175 to the Hawken base, bringing it to $1900.

Hawken — Walnut price

Walnut adds $175 to the Hawken base, bringing it to $1900 (same delta as Fancy Maple).

Hawken — Wood curl range

Hawken's Standard Maple curl range is 0-35%, slightly wider than the 5-35% range quoted for other Kibler kits.

Hawken — Wood option lineup

Hawken stock wood options are Standard Maple (0-35% curl), Fancy Maple (35-65% curl), Extra Fancy Maple (65-90% curl), Walnut, Cherry, or Customer Wood.

SMR — Cherry description

Cherry has fine, tight grain that deepens and reddens naturally with age and light exposure, even under a clear finish.

SMR — Customer-supplied stock price

Customer-supplied stock reduces SMR price by $60, to $1315.

SMR — Customer-supplied stock risk note

With customer-supplied stock, Kibler CNCs the customer's wood, so the customer should inspect it for hidden checks, knots, or high moisture content — that risk shifts to the customer.

SMR — Extra Fancy Maple description

Extra Fancy Maple (+$425) is 65-90% curl, the most dramatic figure offered; blanks are rarer and can carry a longer wait than the rest of the wood lineup.

SMR — Extra Fancy Maple price

Extra Fancy Maple (approx. 65-90% curl) adds $425, bringing SMR to $1800.

SMR — Fancy Maple / Walnut price

Fancy Maple (approx. 35-65% curl) or Walnut adds $225, bringing SMR to $1600.

SMR — Fancy Maple description

Fancy Maple (+$225) is 35-65% curl; figure "pops" more once stain and finish go on, a favorite pairing with carved stocks.

SMR — Standard Maple description

Standard Maple has solid figure, is straightforward to finish, and is normally the fastest wood option to ship since it's always in stock.

SMR — Walnut description

Walnut (+$225) has straighter grain than maple with a naturally darker tone, needing less stain to reach a deep color.

Woodsrunner — Customer wood minimum size

Customer-supplied wood for the Woodsrunner needs to be 57 1/2" long and 2 1/4" thick.

Woodsrunner — Customer-supplied stock price

Customer-supplied stock reduces Woodsrunner price by $60, to $1375.

Woodsrunner — Extra Fancy Maple price

Extra Fancy Maple adds $425, bringing Woodsrunner to $1860.

Woodsrunner — Fancy Maple / Walnut price

Fancy Maple or Walnut adds $225, bringing Woodsrunner to $1660.

Colonial, finished weight by caliber

Finished Colonial weights: .50 just over 9 1/2 pounds, .54 about 9 1/3 pounds, .58 just under 9 pounds.

Southern Mountain Rifle, finished weight by caliber

Finished Southern Mountain Rifle weights: .32 about 7 1/2 pounds, .36 about 7 1/4 pounds, .40 just under 7 pounds, .45 about 6 1/2 pounds.

Woodsrunner, finished weight by caliber

Finished Woodsrunner weights: .45 about 8 pounds, .50 about 7 1/2 pounds, .54 about 7 pounds.

Barrel twist rate, small bores

Barrels in .32, .36, and .40 use a 1:48 rate of twist.

Barrel twist rate, large bores

Barrels in .45, .50, .54, and .58 use a 1:70 rate of twist.

Woodsrunner, barrel

The Woodsrunner barrel is 39 3/4 inches long and well swamped.

Woodsrunner, overall length

Overall length of a finished Woodsrunner is 55 1/2 inches.

Woodsrunner, lock

The Woodsrunner uses the round faced English lock.

Woodsrunner, stock dimensions

Woodsrunner stock dimensions: pull 13 3/8 or 13 1/2 inches, cast off 3/16 inch, drop at comb 1 3/4 to 2 inches, drop at heel 3 to 3 1/4 inches, butt width 2 inches, butt height 5 inches.

Woodsrunner, customer supplied wood blank size

A customer supplying their own wood for a Woodsrunner needs a blank 57 inches long, 7 1/2 inches wide, and 2 1/4 inches thick.

Woodsrunner, patchbox

The Woodsrunner is offered with a sliding wood patchbox only.

Woodsrunner, hardware

Woodsrunner hardware is brass.

Woodsrunner, trigger

The Woodsrunner uses a single trigger.

Woodsrunner, rear sight position

The Woodsrunner rear sight sits 11 inches from the breech, just past the rear of the entry thimble.

Woodsrunner, architecture

The Woodsrunner stock is tall at the breech, tapers at the wrist, then tapers again at the entry. It is described as handy and easy to carry.

Round faced English lock, complete set of screws

A complete set of screws for the round faced English lock is the cock screw (tumbler screw), bridle screw, frizzen screw, frizzen spring screw, sear screw, sear spring screw, and top jaw screw.

Barrel steel by maker

Rice barrels are made from 12L14 carbon steel. Green Mountain barrels are made from 1137, a modified material.

Southern Mountain Rifle, Ketland mortise

The Ketland lock mortise on the Southern Mountain Rifle measures 4.775 by 0.908 inches.

Southern Mountain Rifle, sight dovetails

Sight dovetail widths on the Southern Mountain Rifle are 0.385 inch front and 0.590 inch rear.

Depth of rifling, .40 caliber

Depth of rifling on a .40 caliber barrel is 0.01 to 0.02 inch.

Top jaw screw thread size

The top jaw screw uses 12-24 threads.

Colonial, barrel width across the flats

The Colonial barrel is swamped, so width across the flats varies. It is 1.125 inches at the breech, tapers to about 0.800 inch, then widens slightly at the muzzle to about 0.875 inch.

Where to Buy

Colonial Set Triggers, R.E. Davis Company

R.E. Davis Company carries Colonial Set Triggers. Phone (330) 948-1082. Address: 8010 Lafayette Road, Lodi, Ohio 44254.

Brass Patchboxes, Muzzleloader Builder Supply

Muzzleloader Builder Supply carries Brass Patchboxes. Phone (208) 397-3008. Address: P.O. Box 848, Aberdeen, ID 83210.

Brass Patchboxes, Track Of The Wolf

Track Of The Wolf carries Brass Patchboxes. Phone (763) 633-2500. Address: 18308 Joplin St NW Elk River, MN 55330-1773.

Black Powder, Black Creek Gun Shop, Inc.

Black Creek Gun Shop, Inc. carries Black Powder. Phone (540) 888-3349. Address: 863 Chestnut Grove Road, Winchester, Virginia 22603.

Black Powder, Powder Inc.

Powder Inc. carries Black Powder. Phone (877) 833-1799. Address: 1861 North College Ave. Clarksville, AR 72830.

Black Powder, GoEx

GoEx carries Black Powder. Phone (318) 382-9300. Address: 924 Hawaii Rd Minden, LA 71055.

Black Powder, Powder Valley

Powder Valley carries Black Powder. Phone (800) 227-4299. Address: 17295 151st Rd Winfield, KS 67156.

Dangler's Browning Solution, Kiblers (Us)

Kiblers (Us) carries Dangler's Browning Solution.

Bluing/Browning Overseas, Birchwood Casey

Birchwood Casey carries Bluing/Browning Overseas. Phone (877) 269-8490. Address: PO Box 535189 Grand Prairie, TX 75053, USA.

Iron Nitrate/Tannic Acid- Canada, Alpha Chem

Alpha Chem carries Iron Nitrate/Tannic Acid- Canada. Phone (905) 821-2995. Address: 2485 Milltower Court Mississauga, Ontario, Canada L5N 5Z6.

Jax Brown, Kiblers (Us)

Kiblers (Us) carries Jax Brown.

Sanding Blocks, Woodcraft

Woodcraft carries Sanding Blocks.

Iron Nitrate, Kibler's (Us)

Kibler's (Us) carries Iron Nitrate.

Seale/Finish, Kiblers (Us)

Kiblers (Us) carries Seale/Finish.

Jax Black, Kiblers (Us)

Kiblers (Us) carries Jax Black.

Wood Filler, Constantine's Wood Filler

Constantine's Wood Filler carries Wood Filler. Phone (954) 561-1716. Address: 1040 E. OAKLAND PARK BLVD., FORT LAUDERDALE, FL 33334.

Mainspring Vise, Midway USA

Midway USA carries Mainspring Vise. Phone (800) 243-3220.

Mainspring Vise, Track of the Wolf

Track of the Wolf carries Mainspring Vise. Phone (763) 633-2500. Address: 18308 Joplin St NW Elk River, MN 55330.

Mainspring Vise, Dixie Gun Works

Dixie Gun Works carries Mainspring Vise. Phone (800) 238-6785. Address: 1412 West Reelfoot Avenue, Union City, TN 38281.

Mainspring Vise, Log Cabin Sport Shop

Log Cabin Sport Shop carries Mainspring Vise. Phone (330) 948-1082. Address: 8010 Lafayette Road, Lodi, Ohio 44254.

Mainspring Vise, R.E. Davis Company

R.E. Davis Company carries Mainspring Vise. Phone (330) 948-1082. Address: 8010 Lafayette Road, Lodi, Ohio 44254.

Mainspring Vise, Kibler's (US)

Kibler's (US) carries Mainspring Vise.

Polishing Stones, Gesswein

Gesswein carries Polishing Stones. Phone (203) 366-5400. Address: 201 Hancock Avenue Bridgeport, CT 06605 USA.

Jeweler Saw Blade, Rio Grande - Jeweler's Saw Blade

Rio Grande - Jeweler's Saw Blade carries Jeweler Saw Blade. Phone (800) 545-6566. Address: 7500 Bluewater Rd. NW Albuquerque, NM 87121-1962 USA.

Polishing Stones, Congress Tools

Congress Tools carries Polishing Stones. Phone (203) 723-1424. Address: 51 Great Hill Road Naugatuck, CT 06770.